I've had the Neon for over 9 1/2 years, now at 201,000 miles. Dose that qualify?
How many are keeping their vehicles longer ?
- Thread starter thunderchild
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Same thing for me...I only have 45,000 on my car right now, and at 10k/year, I figure I'll tire of it long before it's life is up(especially with it's all synthetic diet
Once I'm out of school and on my feet financially, it'll be hard to resist the allure of a used Porsche(my dream car brand)...
Our cars will be driven until they are dead; or when the sum of their problems just dosen't make it worthwhile anymore.
Currently our 96 Saturn SL1 has 172k on the clock and our recently aquired '98 Windstar has 103k. Both have their issues but certainly nothing huge.
Currently our 96 Saturn SL1 has 172k on the clock and our recently aquired '98 Windstar has 103k. Both have their issues but certainly nothing huge.
What is "longer"? Since I drove my last car (Saab) nearly 300k miles, then 400k on this one, and 500k on the next one>
And so on....
And so on....
I feel cheated if I don't get a quarter of a million miles relatively trouble free on any of my vehicles.
03 CVPI 92k purchased 05 w/40k
04 CVLX 46k purchased 06 w/26k GF drives
93 Chev Cheyenne 110k purchased 93 w 18 miles GF drives
92 GMC Sierra 304k purchased 92 w/540 miles
89 CV 255k purchased 91 w/12k - Sold 05 Still running w/290k
May trade the 04 CVLX early if Ford can make a reasonably priced flex fuel or diesel CV in the next few years.
I have friend who has a 88-89 Bonneville diesel w/443k on the clock and it runs great. It's just rusted out up to the door handles. It's had 7 sets of tires, 5 sets of brakes, a couple water pumps, and the fuel has gelled on him about five times. I have to bring my kero heater over when he forgets to plug it in during those sub-zero days here in MN.
03 CVPI 92k purchased 05 w/40k
04 CVLX 46k purchased 06 w/26k GF drives
93 Chev Cheyenne 110k purchased 93 w 18 miles GF drives
92 GMC Sierra 304k purchased 92 w/540 miles
89 CV 255k purchased 91 w/12k - Sold 05 Still running w/290k
May trade the 04 CVLX early if Ford can make a reasonably priced flex fuel or diesel CV in the next few years.
I have friend who has a 88-89 Bonneville diesel w/443k on the clock and it runs great. It's just rusted out up to the door handles. It's had 7 sets of tires, 5 sets of brakes, a couple water pumps, and the fuel has gelled on him about five times. I have to bring my kero heater over when he forgets to plug it in during those sub-zero days here in MN.
I'm with the "keep it running" crowd if possible. I have one old car with over 120K miles.
It gets harder and more expensive to repair newer cars. Some transmissions and electrical parts of new vehicles are made to be more marginal than ever. No more going to the junkyard to get a still usable old transmission for many front wheel drive cars. The junkyard ones are just as bad as every other broken one. The auto transmission of my Honda costs three thousand or more to change. It seem that most do die before 100K miles. Trade in value will soon fall to the same range as a replacement transmission. Replacements might die even sooner than originals.
Maybe it this means back to a manual transmission lightly optioned model for a next car.
It gets harder and more expensive to repair newer cars. Some transmissions and electrical parts of new vehicles are made to be more marginal than ever. No more going to the junkyard to get a still usable old transmission for many front wheel drive cars. The junkyard ones are just as bad as every other broken one. The auto transmission of my Honda costs three thousand or more to change. It seem that most do die before 100K miles. Trade in value will soon fall to the same range as a replacement transmission. Replacements might die even sooner than originals.
Maybe it this means back to a manual transmission lightly optioned model for a next car.
Most 5-speed automatic Hondas are costing less than $3000 to rebuild with the latest aftermarket parts. It can go as low as $2000 if no solenoid replacement is needed.
I'm going to be keeping my car until it falls apart, most likely. I've spent nearly $2000 on bodywork doing a full exterior body restore. Replaced a fender, replaced an inner fender, reconnecting the inner fender to the fender soon (self-drilling screws for the win!), repairing both rear quarter panel rust using new sheet metal and rust bullet inhibitor, repainting both quarter panels, repainted rear panel beneath hatch, and now i'm going to be replacing most of the engine seals.
Here it seems pointless to keep a car longer than the salt will easily allow. I've meticulously maintained my wife's '99 Subaru, about 225k miles in the last 8 years. It's showing rust on all four wheel wells. It's going to be a rolling pile of @#$% before 250k. Very frustrating for an OCD BITOGer such as myself.
I'll resist the temptation to go off on a salt rant.
I'll resist the temptation to go off on a salt rant.
I have high hopes on this Rust Bullet stuff to prevent the rust from coming back. I'm also using it under my hood where it's starting to rust around the latch.
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Here it seems pointless to keep a car longer than the salt will easily allow. I've meticulously maintained my wife's '99 Subaru, about 225k miles in the last 8 years. It's showing rust on all four wheel wells. It's going to be a rolling pile of @#$% before 250k. Very frustrating for an OCD BITOGer such as myself.
I'll resist the temptation to go off on a salt rant.
salt? what salt? We here at NY State DOT use only the finest non-corrosive products out there!
I bought my 92 Galant in 2004 from a lady that was in FL half the time...has the typical salt water corrosion and now the upstate NY brown death....the body itself is great...but the exhaust goes every few years (THAT costs an arm and a leg - anyone have a source for a system from the cat back? not a performance system, OEM) and all the bushings underneath get dry as heck.
JHZR2
Staff member
Got it!!! Thats what happens when you get an AT car... even all the same, the car is worth what it costs to replace it... If your car suits your needs, has a well known and good history, and needs $3000 in repairs, it very well might be the smart move anyhow.
Remember, new ones cost a lot, and in the case of hondas, used ones cost even more... considering the age and mileage on them.
JMH
My truck is 23 yrs old and my wifes car is 12 yrs old and there both keepers.1984 S-15 Jimmy, 1995 Dodge Spirit.OCI 2000 miles or 3 months which ever comes first.
I should print this thread for my family and mechanic...which is my best friend's dad....they say i need to get rid of my Galant!
why...compression is great, tranny is smoothe...so I have to put on a $20 balljoint myself, new oil pan, front motor mount, full tuneup, O2, fuel filter and the big ticket - cat back exhaust is SHOT...no more patching.
I love this car.
my fiance says this morning, "our poor kid (when we have one) will be driving this thing to high school"
YEP!!!
why...compression is great, tranny is smoothe...so I have to put on a $20 balljoint myself, new oil pan, front motor mount, full tuneup, O2, fuel filter and the big ticket - cat back exhaust is SHOT...no more patching.
I love this car.
my fiance says this morning, "our poor kid (when we have one) will be driving this thing to high school"
YEP!!!
Most? That's false. *Some* have died at around 100K, but the large majority do not. They did have some issues with the Ody and Accord earlier this decade, but even then it was a small minority that failed. Moreover, they now seem to have fixed the problems for the most part.
Of course, AT's are inherently less reliable long-term than the manual tranny. Wish I could've gotten one, but my wife can't/won't even try to drive one.
Well I did not add my vehicles when I started this so I will now. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango with 88,5** miles on it. Great vehicle. I traded my first one for this one and got 130,000 plus out of it. This one I am keeping until 300,000 minimum. The way it is going it will never die it seems. I use it as my daily driver. I also have a 2001 Audi TT roadster (garage queen). I take that out every now and then. Usually weekend drives. It has only 55,000+ miles. I do most of my own oil changes on both. I have the dealers do the tuneups and other things warranty wise. I keep both stock. Except for an air intake in the truck. I use Castrol Syntec 5w-40 in the Audi and either Supertech Synthetic 5w-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. I have some 5w-20 PP I was going to use on the truck but I am going to mix it with the 5w-30. I do 90% plus highway driving so I am staying at the 5000 mile OCI's I have been doing. I also use The older Amsoil SDF-15 filters (oversized) for my truck. I bought them in bulk when I first got my truck and still have 8 of them to go through. The Audi get's the Mann or Mahle filters that are specified by Audi. All in all, I am happy with the way they have been holding up.
Well, my good friend with an '01 Odyssey is on his third trans in less than 100k. Obviously his fault
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Well, my good friend with an '01 Odyssey is on his third trans in less than 100k. Obviously his fault
Wow! You have a friend that has a Honda Odyssey with transmission problems? Guess that confirms that *most* Honda auto trannies fail before 100K. Thank you for that statistically significant anecdotal evidence.
In the Chevy pickup I've got 202,000 miles. At the rate I drive it, it might outlast me and I'm only 41. That truck is solid as a rock!
Same story with the Mustang. Only 87K miles on it, seems like it could last forever. In the two years I've owned it, NOTHING has gone wrong... To get to 200K would take me 12 years at the rate I'm driving it.
Same story for the Suburban. Rock solid.
The little Mazda, I'm waiting for it to explode at any moment with about 150K. If and when it does, I'll probably replace it with an older Crown Vic for the upcoming teenagers to drive. (Safe, solid, cheap.)
I find myself constantly looking for the next thing. Gee, what should I replace? My conclusion always is... Just wait. Someday you'll have that Vette... right now the plan is to get the kids all grown up and educated and on their own.
Can't beat the old-tech rear-drive V8 for longevity!
Same story with the Mustang. Only 87K miles on it, seems like it could last forever. In the two years I've owned it, NOTHING has gone wrong... To get to 200K would take me 12 years at the rate I'm driving it.
Same story for the Suburban. Rock solid.
The little Mazda, I'm waiting for it to explode at any moment with about 150K. If and when it does, I'll probably replace it with an older Crown Vic for the upcoming teenagers to drive. (Safe, solid, cheap.)
I find myself constantly looking for the next thing. Gee, what should I replace? My conclusion always is... Just wait. Someday you'll have that Vette... right now the plan is to get the kids all grown up and educated and on their own.
Can't beat the old-tech rear-drive V8 for longevity!
[quote[ Why is it every time i see one of those boxes on wheels driving down the road i want one so very badly?!?
They are certainly very charming cars.
Because Volvo's are like kids they grow on you the longer you own them. That is why you see so many people driving them for 100K plus miles. I have no history on the fwd's but almost everyone I know with the 200's,700's and 900's is going to drive theirs into the ground. That goes double for the 240's.
They are certainly very charming cars.
Because Volvo's are like kids they grow on you the longer you own them. That is why you see so many people driving them for 100K plus miles. I have no history on the fwd's but almost everyone I know with the 200's,700's and 900's is going to drive theirs into the ground. That goes double for the 240's.
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