How long do lower ball joints last?

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Just ordered some mevotech TTX lower control arms because you cant replace the ball joint, it has to be the whole lower controll arm.
My lower control arm lasted almost exactly 4 years, it was OEM on a heavy ford flex.
How long do lower ball joints normally last?

 

[cptbarkey]

Its likely environmental.
How many potholes does your local area have?
All cars/trucks are engineered differently with their weight distribution, cant really say Ford is good at what they do.

 

[Doc8404]

Being in the rust belt as we are certainly takes its toll.

That being said, my 2013 F150 is on the original. 125k

 

[Bighorn2500]

Depends on vehicle/road/driving conditions, I've had some changed at 118k and the next set only make it 62k before needing replaced.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Yeah im in Buffalo NY so pot hole central.
One of my ball joints went out and that side had strut go bad too so im assuming some pot hole made me pay the rust belt tax

 

[WobblyElvis]

I have had 4 old Dodge Minivans. The original ball joints all lasted 180 - 195,000 miles. Replacements did not last half as long regardless of price.

 

[Lubener]

Replacements which can be greased may last as long as the vehicle if you grease them once in a while. I have never been able to get more than 75k miles on a Ford before front end parts start wearing out. "Lubed for life" is useless.

 

[Jetronic]

I found that for my use, lower control arm bushes wear out faster than lower control arm ball joints.

The current car has the ball joint pointing down in the arm, I wonder if that has a positive effect on longevity as water and grime is less likely to enter the ball joint itself?

 

[RDY4WAR]

My '91 Nissan hardbody (482k miles) has the original ball joints, shocks, and tie rod ends. It's surprising to me given how rough that truck has been treated over the years. It's been mudding, driven through the woods (against trees) while hunting, on the beach once or twice, and even caught air off a sand dune. We lived on a dirt road (~8 miles to the nearest paved road) for the first 15 years of its life until that road was finally paved. I think it's had a wheel bearing or two replaced.

On the other hand, my MIL's 2015 Elantra had both ball joints replaced before 50k miles, and she has a short commute on smooth highway.

I look at them as a "if it's not broken, don't fix it" part.

 

[PandaBear]

Its likely environmental.
How many potholes does your local area have?
All cars/trucks are engineered differently with their weight distribution, cant really say Ford is good at what they do.

This.

Mine on the 97 Integra with 280K miles are still original. It was just commuting in the last 28 years. Mine on the Corolla also lasted till we crushed it at 240k and 24 years.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

My '91 Nissan hardbody (482k miles) has the original ball joints, shocks, and tie rod ends. It's surprising to me given how rough that truck has been treated over the years. It's been mudding, driven through the woods (against trees) while hunting, on the beach once or twice, and even caught air off a sand dune. We lived on a dirt road (~8 miles to the nearest paved road) for the first 15 years of its life until that road was finally paved. I think it's had a wheel bearing or two replaced.

On the other hand, my MIL's 2015 Elantra had both ball joints replaced before 50k miles, and she has a short commute on smooth highway.

I look at them as a "if it's not broken, don't fix it" part.

Ah, you did not have the "pleasure and the privilege" of dealing with potholes over the in the Palmetto State?
Take out your ball join and blow your shocks at the same time.

 

[SC Maintenance]

My 18 year old xterra with 412k miles has original lower ball joints. Boots still intact. No discernible play. The arms have some play in their bushings. Not enough to wear tires yet.

I just replaced the uppers arms/ joint - the boots finally failed.

So I would say it depends.

 

[Jetronic]

My '91 Nissan hardbody (482k miles) has the original ball joints, shocks, and tie rod ends. It's surprising to me given how rough that truck has been treated over the years. It's been mudding, driven through the woods (against trees) while hunting, on the beach once or twice, and even caught air off a sand dune. We lived on a dirt road (~8 miles to the nearest paved road) for the first 15 years of its life until that road was finally paved. I think it's had a wheel bearing or two replaced.

On the other hand, my MIL's 2015 Elantra had both ball joints replaced before 50k miles, and she has a short commute on smooth highway.

I look at them as a "if it's not broken, don't fix it" part.

The i30 of that age shares it's lower ball joints with the santa fe. They did wear out on those, but never seen them wear out on the i30. I doubt the Elantra is different from the i30 here. so colour me confused.

 

[Trav]

Replacements which can be greased may last as long as the vehicle if you grease them once in a while. I have never been able to get more than 75k miles on a Ford before front end parts start wearing out. "Lubed for life" is useless.

That may be true for some Ford models but in general LFL are much better in cars. I have a Saab here all original with 150K and 25 years on them and nothing has play or even damaged boots. Ditto lots or Euro and Japanese cars with OE LFL front end parts are still going strong at 20+ years in the rust belt with street that more resemble WWII bombed out streets better suited to track vehicles.
No grease fitting for this kid.

 

[crashz]

On LFL joints, I always wondered if greasing the ball joints with one of the piercing needles would be better to get new fresh grease in the joint OR would you be opening it up to contamination and therefore causing the joint to fail sooner?

 

[Dave9]

On LFL joints, I always wondered if greasing the ball joints with one of the piercing needles would be better to get new fresh grease in the joint OR would you be opening it up to contamination and therefore causing the joint to fail sooner?

LFL (almost?) always use a plastic bushing so are very low friction, and unless talking about a very long time, won't need relubed unless the boot has failed and let some out. If contamination got in, lubing through the boot also won't as readily flush it out as it would with the grease zerk on the other end.

More often the LFL fail due to vehicle loaded weight and/or, more often impact damage from potholes, deforming the plastic bushing. The other issue is which lube do you choose? Instead of some type of petroleum based grease, it might be silicone. Extracting a little if possible, would be a good idea before adding more that is potentially incompatible. If it dissolves in gasoline, it's not silicone.

Ultimately I wouldn't pierce a LFL to add more lube. If the boot is cracked, I might add some to try to extend the life a little till I got around to replacing it, or if in a situation where I had access while doing another repair that has the knuckle off anyway, and the boot could be pulled off non-destructively, enough to get a grease needle in, then that, except if old enough that it might need lubed, the boot may fall apart trying to get it loose, and that if it uses silicone grease, I don't keep a grease gun loaded with that to push it through a needle.

 

[Chris142]

The ones in my jeep lasted 180k. The FJ is on its 3rd or 4th set I can't remember. Both are driven on washboard dirt roads daily.