I have two B&S flathead engines, one 6ish HP on a push mower(splash lube), the other 19ish HP on a JD rider(pressure lube). I commonly use new leftover oil from auto and ATV oil changes in my OPE. I have enough oil to change the mowers and refill it with low-SAPS oil that is left over from my TDI diesels. The low-SAPS oil isn't real "healthy" in zinc, or any other additive really. Though not ideal, would the oil hold up reasonably well for my engines that see max 50 hour OCIs?
How important is zinc in the flathead B&S engine?
- Thread starter ccdhowell
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In your climate, I'd recommend Shell Rotella T6 (5W-40). It's technically a grade above what's likely recommended, but I'd say that you're fine for that in LA. Another good alternative is Shell Rotella T5 (10W-30). That's what I personally use in my two 4-cycle OPEs, but I may try T6 next time, just for fun.
Generally, no problem with modest additive packages in OPE engines.
I fix small power equipment as a side business. The most important thing with small engines is to keep oil in them. Most engines that seize or throw a rod are due to low or no oil. If you keep the sump full, the engine will outlast whatever it is mounted to. As long as the oil is close to the correct grade such as 10w30, 10w40, 15w40, 5w40, etc, it will run fine.
I use Rotella T 15w40 in equipment that is used in Spring/Summer, and Rotella T6 5w40 in equipment that is used in Fall/Winter. I find the HDEO minimizes oil burning in air cooled engines, especially older ones.
My dad had a cheapo Murray push mower with a 4.5 HP Tecumseh engine when I was growing up. He never changed the oil, only added some when it was low. He had that mower 15 years and it ran great when he sold it.
I use Rotella T 15w40 in equipment that is used in Spring/Summer, and Rotella T6 5w40 in equipment that is used in Fall/Winter. I find the HDEO minimizes oil burning in air cooled engines, especially older ones.
My dad had a cheapo Murray push mower with a 4.5 HP Tecumseh engine when I was growing up. He never changed the oil, only added some when it was low. He had that mower 15 years and it ran great when he sold it.
Thanks jeepman, that's what I'm looking for. Now I won't have to waste that expensive VW 507.00 spec oil.
most single cyl small displacement B&S engines are running on nylon cam gear, so zinc is of very little benefits in that regard.
So long as there's oil in the engine, they will run fine. No need to go fancy like full syn, etc. unless you have an application-specific (such as Go-cart, single cyl dirtbike, etc.)
mower engine is as lowly as it can be RE: B&S. I don't put fancy stuff in it.
Q.
So long as there's oil in the engine, they will run fine. No need to go fancy like full syn, etc. unless you have an application-specific (such as Go-cart, single cyl dirtbike, etc.)
mower engine is as lowly as it can be RE: B&S. I don't put fancy stuff in it.
Q.
The oil that finds it's way into my OPE is indeed costly synthetic oil of various flavors, i.e. CJ-4, 507.00 and 505.00 VW spec, and various syn ATV racing oils. It is always the left overs from oil changes on the costly equipment I care about. I actually collect the oil drippings from each bottle of oil I use in something else and run it in my OPE. At this point though, I have two half-liters of 507.00 VW spec oil of different brands that I want to put in my OPE, and I will now that I know it will be ok.
So quest, when you say nothing fancy, well, in a way it isn't, because it isn't purchased for the OPE at all.
So quest, when you say nothing fancy, well, in a way it isn't, because it isn't purchased for the OPE at all.
Lots of those engines lived decades on ND30 with little to no AW addatives.
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