How does Heat NOT affect Oil selection? 0W-30 vs ?

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Originally Posted By: Astro14

concur - did you happen to look at Dr. Haas' articles? See chapter 5: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=79 But I recommend that you read all of the oil 101...thicker ain't always better....


That article has been condemned because it has a lot of inaccurate information in it, here and other places. A guy with a phd in tribology in another forum poked a bunch of holes in what's written too.
 
Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
Originally Posted By: Astro14

concur - did you happen to look at Dr. Haas' articles? See chapter 5: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=79 But I recommend that you read all of the oil 101...thicker ain't always better....


That article has been condemned because it has a lot of inaccurate information in it, here and other places. A guy with a phd in tribology in another forum poked a bunch of holes in what's written too.


How about some hints as to where that info resides? If you can't link it, a couple of hints or even a PM. I don't agree with Dr. Haas 100% but he seemed to have a lot right. I'd like to be able to have my mind opened.. or put some holes in the holemaker's holes, as the case may be. ( : < )
 
20-50 in a modern engine in Michigan in the winter?! I think not. Not unless the engine is shot.

I ran 20-50 for decades in the southern half of the country, then Mobil 1 15w50 but I have been driving a '73 Cadillac for the last 16 years andIi used to live where it was fairly warm and never got below about 20 degrees.

The newer engines, as I have learned here on BITOG are designed for thinner oils. I still use the thickest oil I can get away with because the Caddy 472/500 engines run on the wrm side especially in the summer (around 220 to 230), 200 in the winter when warmed up even if it's 10 degrees outside. But I'm down to 5-40 Rotella T right now considering the frigid weather we just endured for the last 4 months.

I would just follow the manufacturers specs for your vehicle. 20-50 especially a dino is way too thick for a modern engine in MI, especially in the winter and especially with the colder winters we have been seeing for the last 5 years or so. The newer engines since the 80's are just not a "sloppy" when it comes to clearances as the old relics were.
 
At least the M1 is a "thin" 50w border line thick 40w and a synthetic on top of it so flow restriction is reduced.
 
CAFE/govt/EPA,etc. 20W50 will not hurt your engine if you`re in a "warm/hot" climate. My fsm specs 20W50 down to 14F. I see you`re in MI,how about somewhere between a 10W30/40-15W40? Do you have a copy of the fsm for your car?
 
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Put a quart of 20W50 and a quart of 0W30 in your zero degree freezer and try pouring them once they've chilled down. Very unscientific but dramatic especially if you pour them through a viscosimeter.
 
Originally Posted By: halseywales
Im confused here. I just passedup some GC 0w30 and went with 20W-50 (full synthetic 20W-50, for flow) in my car. What would have happened if id have chose 0W-30?

This is the 1994 LHS.


Did i make the right choice?


Nope...

For MI, I wouldn't have a problem with the 20W-50 from maybe mid May till mid Oct, but otherwise defiantly too thick on cold start in colder weather...

The 0w30 would have been fine, as would any of the 0W-40 or 5W-40...
 
Im sure nothing would happen. 0w30 is supposed to have the same high heat protection as and other Xw30. Id still stick with 10w or 5w30 minimum.
 
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