I like using them because they don’t have to be tended to like a dehumidifier especially if you are away from home (vacation etc.)
How do you prevent dew inside your garage?
- Thread starter The motor guy
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Won't cause a fire either. I always wondered if a gas tank or something leaks, if the place will go boom as soon as something like the fridge turns on.
Plus - just dump the juice where? City sewer OK, But septic??? Yard??
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They have a container you empty or connect a hose. The container fills up daily though
I was referring to the Damp Rid juices, isn't some of the hygroscopic chemical in the fluid/water/condensate?
Once the product inside the container absorbs moisture to its capacity, you put the lid back on and throw it away. They also have refillable containers where you can buy the crystals separately. Damprid says their product is environmentally safe but i wouldn’t dump any of the captured liquid on my favorite shrubs as they say it’s a liquid brine, which of course has high salinity.
Regarding how much moisture is removed from the air in a given day; I can only tell you that while I haven’t measured the humidity levels before I open the tubs at the beginning of summer and then after they’ve be opened for a few days, the product works for my purposes in my garage without having to monitor them. I use 2 (4 lb) buckets placed apart which last a couple months.
Dehumidifiers would undoubtedly work faster and draw more moisture out however we all know it can be a pain to monitor and empty them especially in high humidity conditions.
I had a similar issue to this when I lived in Detroit. I was disheartened to see my car rusting overnight in the garage due to warm damp air causing condensation on cold metal. My car’s brake disks, wheels, and the undercarriage were all rusting. I discovered an inconvenient solution that was 100% effective and cheap. It’s called a car jacket.
It’s a giant tarp that encapsulates the car like a bubble. You drive the car on top of it, add some desiccant, then zip it closed. I threw my tools in there with the car and opened it only infrequently. The rusting stopped literally 100%. Even after months of winter, the brake disks were spotless.
It doesn’t cost electricity. It’s 100% effective, But it’s inconvenient. If you open the thing when it’s humid out, you have to bake the desiccant in the oven to dry it out, then throw it back in the bag. But I found the inconvenience worth the benefits.
It’s a giant tarp that encapsulates the car like a bubble. You drive the car on top of it, add some desiccant, then zip it closed. I threw my tools in there with the car and opened it only infrequently. The rusting stopped literally 100%. Even after months of winter, the brake disks were spotless.
It doesn’t cost electricity. It’s 100% effective, But it’s inconvenient. If you open the thing when it’s humid out, you have to bake the desiccant in the oven to dry it out, then throw it back in the bag. But I found the inconvenience worth the benefits.
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Vapor barrier takes many forms, and is effective only if the correct form for your location is employed. First step is to make a determination by using a database like found on US Dept of Energy website. In general, hot humid climates require the barrier to be on the outside wall and the opposite for Cold or cool climates. Installation methods and material choices will take a serious time commitment and study, but to not get it correct will be a costly mistake. It ain't cheap, especially retrofit.
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I'm in the south on the gulf coast. Around here in houses if you put insulation up against the roof you'll get mold, so they put it in the ceiling joists and allow the attic to get up to 180 degrees, but with that being said they put insulation up against the roof in metal buildings
I found out the hard way not to put a cover over my 1950 1.5-ton Chevy fire truck with 2600 original miles in a crowded warehouse that is kept above freezing. The one time I did, in the spring every unpainted surface had rust on it, and the clutch disc had rusted stuck to the flywheel. It's been fine since not using a cover which trapped the moisture on it from vehicles being moved out in the spring.
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Attics are an additional set of variables. There's two basic kinds of attics; vented and non-vented. Vast majority are vented and a moisture barrier isn't needed at all on the inside. But a good improvement for vented attics is to seal the conditioned space from the attic by use of a air barrier affixed to the attic floor. This makes cost to cool less and increases comfort. The attic meanwhile will vent better since now your return air isn't sucking hot air into the cooled space, reducing pressure in the attic.I'm in the south on the gulf coast. Around here in houses if you put insulation up against the roof you'll get mold, so they put it in the ceiling joists and allow the attic to get up to 180 degrees, but with that being said they put insulation up against the roof in metal buildings
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There's more to it than that. I have climate control and can have it at 28 percent humidity and still have condensation dripping off the insulation from the ceiling.
burbguy82
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there must be some point where there is a big temperature differential, or air flow....humidity and temperature change does it.
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My roof does it in the morning when the sun heats it back up. Usually when it's around 40 or so and the dew is all over everything. I guess I messed up and didn't put a vapor barrier on, because the rockwool I used said it wasn't needed. Haven't seen anything regarding that now. They changed that statement real quick lol
