On a low ground clearance RWD vehicle, how do you lift it high enough while keeping the vehicle leveled? Do put all 4 corner on jack stand of the same type and model? or do you put them on stacked concrete tiles? Build your own lift?
How do you lift a car high enough and leveled?
- Thread starter PandaBear
- Start date
- Status
4 Rhino ramps. With a car it would probably be easier to drive it up onto the front wheels first. Then jack the back of the car using the rear and place two ramps under the rear wheels. This is what I do with my Aerostar, it takes a lot of power to drive it up 4 ramps, and I'd rather not stress the old transmission. With my 4WD Jeep I shift into 4L and drive up the 4 ramps. Great for getting under the vehicle, I put jack stands under for added safety. This will only work for doing work that doesn't require taking off the wheels. HTH
Assuming a solid rear axle I'd drive up on to front ramps then jack the pumpkin and stick jack stands under the axle tubes.
Would make sure the front wheels were solidly in the wells of the ramps of course.
This makes me pucker, as the front wheels would have nothing keeping them from rolling during the rear jacking procedure. If a stick were keeping the brake applied "for safety" that stick could come loose.
Closest I came to this was when my (new to me) buick century got towed to my house with blown brake lines. I drove the front up ramps with only the e-brake to stop me, then put the rear up on jack stands on the rocker panels. At least the park pawl locked the front wheels. Though done properly the car should stay put without relying on (front) tire friction.
Shenanigans like this call for a lift or four jackstands IMO.
Would make sure the front wheels were solidly in the wells of the ramps of course.
This makes me pucker, as the front wheels would have nothing keeping them from rolling during the rear jacking procedure. If a stick were keeping the brake applied "for safety" that stick could come loose.
Closest I came to this was when my (new to me) buick century got towed to my house with blown brake lines. I drove the front up ramps with only the e-brake to stop me, then put the rear up on jack stands on the rocker panels. At least the park pawl locked the front wheels. Though done properly the car should stay put without relying on (front) tire friction.
Shenanigans like this call for a lift or four jackstands IMO.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
On a low ground clearance RWD vehicle, how do you lift it high enough while keeping the vehicle leveled?
Arcan 3.5 ton floor jack from Costco & 4 jackstands from HF. Especially easy if you can lift the entire rear at once.
On a low ground clearance RWD vehicle, how do you lift it high enough while keeping the vehicle leveled?
Arcan 3.5 ton floor jack from Costco & 4 jackstands from HF. Especially easy if you can lift the entire rear at once.
I do have a 4 ton jack and 2 jack stand, so I guess it is time for me to either get a set of ramp or 2 more jack stands.
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
I'll guess changing the differential fluid, since most cars have to be level to get the fluid to the top of the fill bolt.
I have to do this to my car. My solution is a little different: My driveway is at a very slight slope, enough that on some 6" ramps the car is pretty much level. I wasn't sure how safe this was, but I posted some pictures of it on here and asked, and the general consensus was that with the wheels choked and a just-in-case stand, I'd be fine.
I've seen some homemade wooden stands made just for this purpose that look really bomber.
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
I'll guess changing the differential fluid, since most cars have to be level to get the fluid to the top of the fill bolt.
I have to do this to my car. My solution is a little different: My driveway is at a very slight slope, enough that on some 6" ramps the car is pretty much level. I wasn't sure how safe this was, but I posted some pictures of it on here and asked, and the general consensus was that with the wheels choked and a just-in-case stand, I'd be fine.
I've seen some homemade wooden stands made just for this purpose that look really bomber.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
On a low ground clearance RWD vehicle, how do you lift it high enough while keeping the vehicle leveled? Do put all 4 corner on jack stand of the same type and model? or do you put them on stacked concrete tiles? Build your own lift?
Never under ANY circumstances use concrete tiles to support a vehicle. Concrete is brittle and when subjected to a point load (like the weight of a vehicle chassis contacting it) it can shatter catastrophically.
Jackstands are the safest method, IMO.
On a low ground clearance RWD vehicle, how do you lift it high enough while keeping the vehicle leveled? Do put all 4 corner on jack stand of the same type and model? or do you put them on stacked concrete tiles? Build your own lift?
Never under ANY circumstances use concrete tiles to support a vehicle. Concrete is brittle and when subjected to a point load (like the weight of a vehicle chassis contacting it) it can shatter catastrophically.
Jackstands are the safest method, IMO.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
I have had to have cars completely level on 4 or 6 stands in order to align a front crossmember. On mustangs when you put in an aftermarket k-member you have to align it based off the rear lower control arm body mount bolts with the car level.
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
I have had to have cars completely level on 4 or 6 stands in order to align a front crossmember. On mustangs when you put in an aftermarket k-member you have to align it based off the rear lower control arm body mount bolts with the car level.
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: JOD
I'll guess changing the differential fluid, since most cars have to be level to get the fluid to the top of the fill bolt.
It may be good enough to jack the vehicle rear up as high as it'll go before the wheels come off the ground. This would give enough clearance to fill the differential while leaving it reasonably level. I do this for most of my cars.
I'll guess changing the differential fluid, since most cars have to be level to get the fluid to the top of the fill bolt.
It may be good enough to jack the vehicle rear up as high as it'll go before the wheels come off the ground. This would give enough clearance to fill the differential while leaving it reasonably level. I do this for most of my cars.
I've got a slope on part of my driveway so I put my ramps out and put whatever end I'm working under, on the ramps and the rest of the car uphill. It results in a nearly level car. I do the same when changing the oil on the ATV but have to use a steeper slope.
What is the concern with being level in the air?
I never thought about it even once.
I never thought about it even once.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
What is the concern with being level in the air?
I never thought about it even once.
As far as the k-member thing if the values arent correct you get handling issues. The procedure I have done involves hanging plumbbobs and using markers and string to measure specified points on a stark white floor. Then of course you have to corner weight after.
What is the concern with being level in the air?
I never thought about it even once.
As far as the k-member thing if the values arent correct you get handling issues. The procedure I have done involves hanging plumbbobs and using markers and string to measure specified points on a stark white floor. Then of course you have to corner weight after.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Never under ANY circumstances use concrete tiles to support a vehicle. Concrete is brittle and when subjected to a point load (like the weight of a vehicle chassis contacting it) it can shatter catastrophically.
I used to have some concrete tile blocks (1'x1'x2") that I stand the car's tires on when doing oil change. Dad took them to fix the garden so they aren't available anymore. Thanks for the advice though.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
Like others said, it is for differential fluid change and in the future maybe a transmission fluid change (that needs the car to be leveled and within a temperature window).
I have some friends that I think I'll borrow the jack stands from. I'm out of space in the garage for more toys.
Never under ANY circumstances use concrete tiles to support a vehicle. Concrete is brittle and when subjected to a point load (like the weight of a vehicle chassis contacting it) it can shatter catastrophically.
I used to have some concrete tile blocks (1'x1'x2") that I stand the car's tires on when doing oil change. Dad took them to fix the garden so they aren't available anymore. Thanks for the advice though.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Why do you have to have the car level at all 4 points? Just curious.
Like others said, it is for differential fluid change and in the future maybe a transmission fluid change (that needs the car to be leveled and within a temperature window).
I have some friends that I think I'll borrow the jack stands from. I'm out of space in the garage for more toys.
I use a KwikLift drive on lift. No fussing with ramps or jackstands and it keeps the vehicle high enough to comfortably sit under it with all 4 wheels solidly on the lift. If I need to lift a single wheel off the lift I slide the crossbar under and use a bottle jack to lift it an inch or so.
When it's not in use it lays almost flat on the ground and I park the pickup on it-I don't lose any parking space in the shop with it.
When it's not in use it lays almost flat on the ground and I park the pickup on it-I don't lose any parking space in the shop with it.
- Status
