How do you inspect a used car/engine?

[amateurbob]

2011 Honda civic has manually adjusted valves.
If one ignores this the exhaust valves will burn.
MANY ignore this believing falsely that hondas " need no maintenance".

A super quick compression check will tell you if it's gone too far.

There was weird intermittent start up rattle(l didn't catch it). It was diagnosed as a Variable Timing Control actuator issue. That was was replaced along with a new chain, guides, tensioners, and seals. While they were there it was only 1 additional labor hours so l had them adjust the valves as well.
It is interesting that Honda says that the valves should only be adjusted if they make noise.

 

[UncleDave]

There was weird intermittent start up rattle(l didn't catch it). It was diagnosed as a Variable Timing Control actuator issue. That was was replaced along with a new chain, guides, tensioners, and seals. While they were there it was only 1 additional labor hours so l had them adjust the valves as well.
It is interesting that Honda says that the valves should only be adjusted if they make noise.

When you checked it out was it already warm? Or did you start from cold?

Loose chains, or worn guides can often be hidden by warming up the engine before a guy looks at it.

 

[amateurbob]

When you checked it out was it already warm? Or did you start from cold?

Loose chains, or worn guides can often be hidden by warming up the engine before a guy looks at it.

A lesson l kinda learned after the fact. The salesman got the car from the lot and brought it to me. I have put a lot into the car but not over it's value.

 

[amateurbob]

When l was looking for a car l was only looking at cars that had a modest oil change history and other ok maintenance. Most (probably 95%) did not have a good Carfax history. That's kinda why l started thread. Should l have given more of those vehicles a shot?

 

[UncleDave]

When l was looking for a car l was only looking at cars that had a modest oil change history and other ok maintenance. Most (probably 95%) did not have a good Carfax history. That's kinda why l started thread. Should l have given more of those vehicles a shot?

Yeah not everyone reports to Carfax so it's not going to cover a guy doing self or lots of indy work.

Good hondas are hard to find cheap so I get it you need the ride and get the best you can find when you need it.

Sounds like you might have had a bit better luck widening the scope or waiting a bit.

The mill once fixed probably has pretty good life left in it unless the guy let other stuff go to far.

 

[UncleDave]

It is interesting that Honda says that the valves should only be adjusted if they make noise.

Hondas can be a little weird - thats not really what the manual says.

The manual says service code 4 tells you when it's time to check the valves and replace the plugs.
This is going to come on between 100 and about 105K miles and it's not an option.

Adjust If you hear noisy valves during service - A, B, 1, 2 or 3.

 

[brages]

Every time I've sold a car, I've been a little surprised at how little the prospective buyers check it out. Never had someone take one onto the highway, for example.

Now I sell them cheap because they are usually high miles and maybe looking rough. But they have always been running pretty good. Which I guess is lucky for the buyers.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Compression test is the main thing. That test tells a lot of things.

I’m thinking very few owners or dealers would let anyone pull sparkplugs from their engine. Maybe having them take it to a pro mechanic would work but even that could be quite expensive.

 

[samiamz]

Guys selling junk say things like that.
This is basic stuff.
If you are selling a car with no docs or history and aren't willing to let someone actually check it out on their own dime no less, then I'd happily pass so you could sell it to some sucker that comes along.

Fine, it may their own dime, but it is my car until sold. So what if the guy is a amateur and screws up the engine or spark plug threads or something while he is doing his 'due diligence'? Why would a private seller take that risk?

Now it is a different thing if the seller is a dealership and you say that you are willing to pay 1 hr labor time for their service technician to pop open the valve covers for your inspection etc. in this case you are not doing the work.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Thanks for the heads up. It has the safety brackets on and the rust doesn't look too bad. I plan on have it protected with Krown or fluid film too and hopefully get it to last a decade or so.

If it was me I would not touch one that was recalled. They are only recalling the ones from the rust belt so???

I would use an internal frame paint first then let it cure real well then do the oily stuff. The correct paint can neutralize the rust, the oil will not.

 

[Hohn]

Well, it's a bit too late because you already bought the car, but my check list when I go to see a vehicle for sale is something like this:

• When engine cold:
- check air filter (if it's too dirty - most of the time it means the rest of the car is neglected)
- look for any oil and coolant over the engine and transmission
- check the engine oil level (it should be b/w min. and max. on the oil dipstick)
- check the coolant reservoir level it should be at max. or b/w min and max., but no lower than min.
- check for oil and coolant leaks (under the engine and transmission)
- open engine oil cap and smell (does it smell like burned, wipe the cap with paper or a finger and see if leaves any deposits/sludge)

• Start the engine:
- listen of any noises
- look for any smoke
- take the car for a ride, look how quickly reaches working temperature (it shouldn't take more than 5-10 min.)
- listen for engine and transmission noises, especially when starting after being stopped and accelerating
- check if the car pools left or right
- listen for any noises and vibration when slowing down and stopping

• When engine is hot - driven at least 15-20 min.:
- open the hood and check if you smell any oil or coolant (if it smells either one - it means there is a leak)
- if automatic - check the transmission oil level (it should be b/w min. and max. on the oil dipstick), but no lower than min.
- look under the engine and transmission for any leaks
- look at the coolant reservoir - it should be over max. or above the middle b/w min. and max.
- make someone push the throttle while you're listening for any noises

If the car looks messy and dirty on the inside and out, most likely it means mechanically was also neglected.

A dirty air filter may indicate neglect, but honestly it's perhaps the single least important maintenance item. Air filters do "cake filtration" and so they get more efficient as they get dirtier. If your filter isn't so clogged it's causing a low power complaint, then you don't need to change it.

 

[UncleDave]

Fine, it may their own dime, but it is my car until sold. So what if the guy is a amateur and screws up the engine or spark plug threads or something while he is doing his 'due diligence'? Why would a private seller take that risk?

Now it is a different thing if the seller is a dealership and you say that you are willing to pay 1 hr labor time for their service technician to pop open the valve covers for your inspection etc. in this case you are not doing the work.

I preemptively discussed this scenario in post 23.

I can see maybe a guy balking at the buyer doing it, but If a guy wont let a qualified 3rd party check it out they are likely hiding something.

Ask the buyer to meet me at < local indy shop>, or <pick dealer of that brand with garage> pay dealer shop rate for an hour to put it on a rack and let me do a basic compression test. If the cars good I buy it on the spot and either take you home or buy you an uber back.

If you dont trust me thats fine.I cant trust you because you have no paperwork.

If one has recipts and it passes visual/test drive scrutiny none of this is necessary but the seller puts himself in a position of scrutiny when he cant produce papers and if he has a problem with that I joyfully pass.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

When you checked it out was it already warm? Or did you start from cold?

Loose chains, or worn guides can often be hidden by warming up the engine before a guy looks at it.

Some Hondas, like the s2000, rattle when warm if the chain or tensioner is bad.

 

[wings&wheels]

Well, funny you should bring this up now, but here is one way:

 

[UncleDave]

Some Hondas, like the s2000, rattle when warm if the chain or tensioner is bad.

Makes sense it can go in the hot direction as well.

 

[Sedin26]

UD, in the old days before computers I kept a pencil with the log book in the garage.
Anyone who makes as many mistakes as I do has no business using a pen.

Love your handwriting, by the way...

My ‘93 Tercel logbook was filled out with the same pen for the duration of my ownership - 2007 to 2024

 

[Kestas]

I've sold only a couple cars. The buyers were elated when I showed them a log of maintenance history. It helped solidify the deal.

 

[The_Jeff]

Ask the buyer to meet me at < local indy shop>, or <pick dealer of that brand with garage> pay dealer shop rate for an hour to put it on a rack and let me do a basic compression test. If the cars good I buy it on the spot and either take you home or buy you an uber back.

On the rack at a shop with liability insurance is fine. Rust is the biggest car issue here and junks them before engine trouble. I fluid film my undercarriages, wash when appropriate, and mean "no rust" when my ad says "no rust." I put undercarriage and engine pics in my listings anyway, which many others do not, so I'm already ahead of the game against my private-party competition in selling something used.

Pulling spark plugs from a hot engine with aluminum heads is not ok with me. An endoscope through the oil fill is fine if you want to look for "varnish", just let me see nothing's going to fall off the tip before you put it in.

FWIW, if someone pays a mechanic $100 to check out a car, they then pay my asking price. No bargaining. No $100 off to "cover the mechanic." They've emotionally committed.

 

[UncleDave]

On the rack at a shop with liability insurance is fine. Rust is the biggest car issue here and junks them before engine trouble. I fluid film my undercarriages, wash when appropriate, and mean "no rust" when my ad says "no rust." I put undercarriage and engine pics in my listings anyway, which many others do not, so I'm already ahead of the game against my private-party competition in selling something used.

Pulling spark plugs from a hot engine with aluminum heads is not ok with me. An endoscope through the oil fill is fine if you want to look for "varnish", just let me see nothing's going to fall off the tip before you put it in.

FWIW, if someone pays a mechanic $100 to check out a car, they then pay my asking price. No bargaining. No $100 off to "cover the mechanic." They've emotionally committed.

Thats all fair to me.

I grew up in the midwest - I know full well the damage salted roads do to car and I can remember the zeibart commercials in my head.

I totally get not letting some dolt mess with your stuff.

I'd also never ask a guy to take off a fee I insisted be spent either.

 

[jjblbi]

If you do your own maintenance you'll know what to look for. If not, AAA used to offer a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) for a nominal fee at member garages. I'm guessing an hour of labor at a local garage and their lift is a good investment.