How do you inspect a used car/engine?

[amateurbob]

I have recently helped a family member purchase a used car(2011 Honda CR-V). I have tried to use Carfax to look at maintenance history but some people *cough* *cough* (bitog-goers) like to do most if not all maintenance on their own.

Assuming a car runs and drives well how would you guys assess the health of engine and transmission without having records or documents?

 

[skyactiv]

I'm not going to list a bunch a things, only one that is often skipped over. Hopefully the engine is cold when you look at it. Have someone start the cold engine without reving it while you are at the rear and look for smoke. If you see a puff of start up smoke the valve stem seals might be worn.

 

[Donald]

Smell the transmission fluid if it has a dipstick. See if it smells burned.

 

[UncleDave]

Engine only - Assuming no logbook

Inspect for leaks and noises while running.

Pull a valve cover and take a look. (we all know how OCI sins look here)

Do a leak down test.

 

[The_Jeff]

The cars I look at don't have engine problems. I do try to look for "the obvious problem", the reason the seller is selling the car. This is easier with 15 year old mass-market cars. I don't want perfection, I want one big thing I can fix and have a reliable beater.

I would have a terrible time buying a 5 year old car for five figures. Too risky in my book; too much money on the table and opportunities for shenanigans. An older used car is more "honest."

A test drive is important for transmissions. See how it behaves during transients, like suddenly letting off the gas, or getting on it.

I do scan for codes, or I/M monitors just cleared. Many buyers don't.

 

[amateurbob]

The cars I look at don't have engine problems. I do try to look for "the obvious problem", the reason the seller is selling the car. This is easier with 15 year old mass-market cars. I don't want perfection, I want one big thing I can fix and have a reliable beater.

I would have a terrible time buying a 5 year old car for five figures. Too risky in my book; too much money on the table and opportunities for shenanigans. An older used car is more "honest."

A test drive is important for transmissions. See how it behaves during transients, like suddenly letting off the gas, or getting on it.

I do scan for codes, or I/M monitors just cleared. Many buyers don't.

I am in the Midwest and l was looking at cars that ranged in price from 3 to 5k. Almost all were over 175k miles and 10 years or older. I have been trying to learn how to perform more repairs on my own. Most ever thing l looked required at least 3 to 6000$ in repairs.

 

[brages]

I just trust my gut

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Bring an OBD scan tool if it's at least a 96 or otherwise has OBD II (some 94-95 cars have it). Make sure that the CEL is commanded OFF and that the monitors are ready. Cars 2001+ can only have one not ready, while 96-2000 cars can have 2 not ready.

Notice if the engine is hot or cold when you get there. If it's already warm, they might be trying to hide something, so you want to start it cold and see how it behaves.

Then drive it, check for any obvious signs of trouble, noise, brakes, tires, etc.

And remember, the cheaper the car, the less picky you get to be

 

[f355spider]

One simple check, when you turn the ignition to position 1 or "on", look for the Check Engine light to illuminate and when you start the car, it should turn off. I can't believe the number of people that don't know this and later find out the CE light bulb was removed or disabled. This built in self test is designed as a quick check, but most people don't know this.

I have no problem spending a few hundred dollars to have a car inspected by a reputable shop that specializes in the make of car I am interested in. It can be a dealer or independent. Usually it simply confirms my initial inspection and gives me peace of mind. But once it saved me from a turd.

 

[THORROMIG]

Multiple used cars I bought over the years probably between 7 to 15 years old. Always like to hear the car started cold and what the engine sounds like when it idles down. Always a test drive and preferably somewhere where there is a steep hill to access the transmission. Other good ideas posted earlier.

 

[The_Jeff]

Not just the CEL but ABS, oil, airbag etc lights should do a key on self check.

 

[The_Jeff]

I just trust my gut

People laugh but that's a big part of me too. Why I prefer private party sales. My experience gives me thumbs up or down vibes my consciousness can't describe on a forum.

 

[Japanese]

I have recently helped a family member purchase a used car(2011 Honda CR-V).

Well, it's a bit too late because you already bought the car, but my check list when I go to see a vehicle for sale is something like this:

• When engine cold:
- check air filter (if it's too dirty - most of the time it means the rest of the car is neglected)
- look for any oil and coolant over the engine and transmission
- check the engine oil level (it should be b/w min. and max. on the oil dipstick)
- check the coolant reservoir level it should be at max. or b/w min and max., but no lower than min.
- check for oil and coolant leaks (under the engine and transmission)
- open engine oil cap and smell (does it smell like burned, wipe the cap with paper or a finger and see if leaves any deposits/sludge)

• Start the engine:
- listen of any noises
- look for any smoke
- take the car for a ride, look how quickly reaches working temperature (it shouldn't take more than 5-10 min.)
- listen for engine and transmission noises, especially when starting after being stopped and accelerating
- check if the car pools left or right
- listen for any noises and vibration when slowing down and stopping

• When engine is hot - driven at least 15-20 min.:
- open the hood and check if you smell any oil or coolant (if it smells either one - it means there is a leak)
- if automatic - check the transmission oil level (it should be b/w min. and max. on the oil dipstick), but no lower than min.
- look under the engine and transmission for any leaks
- look at the coolant reservoir - it should be over max. or above the middle b/w min. and max.
- make someone push the throttle while you're listening for any noises

If the car looks messy and dirty on the inside and out, most likely it means mechanically was also neglected.

 

[brages]

People laugh but that's a big part of me too. Why I prefer private party sales. My experience gives me thumbs up or down vibes my consciousness can't describe on a forum.

Yes, I only do private party, I'm looking for someone who owned the car and used it for a while and is upgrading. No flippers please. I expect some level of neglect. Most cheaper used cars aren't ready to go - they will have a few things to set right. I'm not looking for a perfect, pristine vehicle.

Also my "gut" doesn't like rust, oil leaks, or interior/upholstery damage or extreme filth.

I have some old "handbook for structural analysis" at work and one of the rules of thumb is "if a design looks bad, it probably is. What is your subconscious trying to tell you?"

 

[SC Maintenance]

I do scan for codes, or I/M monitors just cleared. Many buyers don't.

^^^ This. Not just scan for codes, but look at the fuel trims, and latent misfire registers. If the emissions registers are not all set I would walk, irrelevant of the excuse - or assume it needs some significant work.

Also agree with the engine better be cold when I arrive. If not I'll come back tomorrow if it otherwise looks good.

How much they asking for this 14 year old vehicle?

 

[grasscutter]

Compression test is the main thing. That test tells a lot of things.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Compression test is the main thing. That test tells a lot of things.

Do people actually do a compression test before buying a used car? Not saying it wouldn't be great if you could.

My Toyota would be pretty easy I suppose but no way if I were the seller do I let some random person pull the plugs.

My Nissan's would need the upper manifold to come off to get to 2 of 6. Also not letting someone pull the other 4 plugs on it either.

 

[amateurbob]

Do people actually do a compression test before buying a used car? Not saying it wouldn't be great if you could.

My Toyota would be pretty easy I suppose but no way if I were the seller do I let some random person pull the plugs.

My Nissan's would need the upper manifold to come off to get to 2 of 6. Also not letting someone pull the other 4 plugs on it either.

I ending up paying 4500$ out the door for it but l knew it needed some work... For what's its worth l did have a reputable mechanic shop do a compression test. It tested at the top end of Honda's spec. That's only reason we got it

 

[amateurbob]

Yes, I only do private party, I'm looking for someone who owned the car and used it for a while and is upgrading. No flippers please. I expect some level of neglect. Most cheaper used cars aren't ready to go - they will have a few things to set right. I'm not looking for a perfect, pristine vehicle.

Also my "gut" doesn't like rust, oil leaks, or interior/upholstery damage or extreme filth.

I have some old "handbook for structural analysis" at work and one of the rules of thumb is "if a design looks bad, it probably is. What is your subconscious trying to tell you?"

My experience with private sellers have been limited but also pretty negative. In my experience most people seem to lie their a$$'s off. To be fair, the site I used for private sellers was marketplace.

 

[Egg_Head]

Many years ago, I was selling my 1987 Jetta. Two brothers who were in town from Costa Rica buying buses for their family business saw my ad in the newspaper. (This was way pre-internet) To inspect the engine, they popped the hood, one brother unscrewed the oil cap while the other revved the motor to about 7000 RPM's. I was aghast. Apparently satisfied, they opened up an eel skin briefcase full of 100 dollar bills, paid me and drove the car away.