How do you inspect a used car/engine?

I assess the owner; does he/she seem to be someone who takes care of their cars? Any log book or receipts? How long have they had it? Problems? Why are they selling? Sure, they may be bluffing, but you can tell sometimes.

Check the tires; are they Michelin or no-name junk? Interior condition can be a clue to car care.

Drive it and hope for the best. Ya puts up yer money and ya takes yer chances...
I plan on going through it anyways unless I buy it from @The Critic.
 
Can't imagine a seller or dealer allowing someone to "take the engine apart." I wouldn't.

Either the seller can prove they maintained the car per the manual with a log or receipts - or it's going to be checked out.

I can see maybe a guy balking at the buyer doing it, but If a guy wont let a qualified 3rd party check it out they are likely hiding something.

Popping off a valve cover and the plugs for a leak down (or minimally a compression test) is hardly "taking the engine apart", but simply doing due diligence on an expensive purchase.

An hours worth of time in a shop for a real checkout is well worth it to me.

Oh another thing - if its a timing belt vehicle, pay specific attention to where it is in its life and if it should have been replaced and there is no paperwork to that effect - it hasn't been done.

Same thing with a manual valve adjustment vehicle ignoring this can end up in a burned valve.
 
I assess the owner; does he/she seem to be someone who takes care of their cars? Any log book or receipts? How long have they had it? Problems? Why are they selling? Sure, they may be bluffing, but you can tell sometimes.

Watch for logbooks all using the same pen.

The exhaust replacement was a huge expense, especially since the first one failed out of the box and the company refused to refund me for it.


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Either the seller can prove they maintained the car per the manual with a log or receipts - or it's going to be checked out.

I can see maybe a guy balking at the buyer doing it, but If a guy wont let a qualified 3rd party check it out they are likely hiding something.

Maybe on the cars you might look at, I was thinking about cars like the OP bought, a $4500 2011 Civic.
 
Maybe on the cars you might look at, I was thinking about cars like the OP bought, a $4500 2011 Civic.


Could be a 4500 gem with a lot of miles left on it, or 4500 of clapped out junk.

Given thats post tax money its cost the op a good chunk more to get that scraped up.

A real quick compression test will give the OP a good idea what he's getting for your money.
 
Last used vehicle purchased (actually me helping a friend purchase), had a clean CarFax and was dealer maintained. Had a matching set of Michelin tires that had lots of tread on them (and those are like $250 each tires). Was rust free (only ever lived in Virginia and North Carolina). It also looked like new. Purchased at a new car dealer. One vehicle I didn't buy had mismatched Chinese tires. Another vehicle I didn't buy the driver's seat motor didn't work (automatic fail on MD inspection) so I rejected that one pretty quickly and just for that reason.
 
Most everything has been covered previously. Take a small flashlight, remove the oil cap, and look for sludge, slime, and/or milkshake looking junk. Take the oil cap off after running the engine and see if any steam/smoke is escaping. Let it idle without cap and see if there’s any puffs of steam/smoke. If nothing is seen and engine is quiet and smooth you’re probably fine. Smell transmission fluid dipstick to see if fluid smells scorched. Is the fluid red or coffee colored…. Does the transmission shift normally… Does it ride quietly… No pulsation or noise in brakes. Look at suspension “bump stops”. If they show signs of being rubbed then some has been doing the Dukes of Hazzard.
 
I just trust my gut

Sometimes this is exactly right...although I have a slightly different take on the subject as I'm a clean & rust-free nut who almost exclusively purchases vehicles outside my area (ebay, etc.).

You absolutely have to trust your gut...but you have to have a trained gut! It helps a lot if you're familiar with the particular vehicle type to talk about specific idiosyncrasies unique to those cars. You can ask "Has this been done?" and "Have you replaced the (insert part here) yet?" Choosing a vehicle type with a very solid reputation vis-à-vis longevity almost always helps. Loads of digital photos are helpful as well, especially for the rust-conscious.

I always speak to the owner and can tell if he/she is "full of it"...i.e., answers my questions accurately, intelligently, and truthfully.

Before leaping, ask yourself if you can stomach a major failure should it occur...and how you would handle it.

I bought my 1986 Daytona in 2011 as an almost-abandoned non-runner. I surmised it had a broken timing belt and was subsequently parked. I paid a ridiculously low price but shelled out $1100.00 to have it shipped. Installed a timing belt, water pump, and spent about 20 hours cleaning filth. It's been my daily driver for 14+ years. Easy decision as I'm very familiar with 80s FWD Chrysler products and could probably disassemble one in my sleep.

Last month I bought a 2007 Caravan SE I located in San Jose. Fortunately for me, our oldest son is stationed about an hour away, so he gave it a drive and a quick once-over. To be clear, our son is no mechanic, but has great sense and was able to follow a checklist I sent him. Luckily, my wife and I already had a trip planned, so it was only a matter of me canceling my return flight and driving the van home. I had to put tires on it as soon as I picked it up, but other than that the van made the 1850-mile trip back home in a flawless manner. $4600 for a one-owner, 80K-mile Caravan that's an absolute cream puff. Great deal.
 
This is going to sound stupid, but look at the drivers side arm rest!
I once was looking at a Ranger pickup at a local Ford dealer. Everything sounded ok and it only showed about 30,000 miles on the dash.

When I looked inside, the drivers door arm rest was worn smooth, as well as the brake pedal, and the carpet under the throttle pedal.

No WAY that happens in 30,000 miles!
 
One reason l have run into is carfax's in Canada do not tend to show info on American system.

Also l was looking at a 2008 Civic with 222k miles. Oil changes ever 5k miles, occasional coolant changes, and occasional transmission services. The dealership was asking $2500. It drove decently given its age and miles. I am by no means an expert but l could see it had a very noticeable valve cover leak, an exhaust/muffler hole, broken rear springs, and a check engine light. All these things l could could have happily dealt with except in the cafax history showed it had 2 back to back engine flushes at the dealership within 500 miles of each other and shortly after the second one the vehicle was traded in.
 
My last purchase, I went private, original owner. Not easy to find. Car had a maintenance log book that was outdated, so I knew I was in for some work. But, no check engine light and the oil was clean. Price was right, so I just trusted my gut and went with it. 06' Camry with 120K. Not terrible. Did whatever work needed to be done on it. It will be my daughter's 1st car. Now in storage for a few years until she's old enough to drive.
 
Most important for a gen 3 is check for recalls, especially if its from the rust belt area. You could be purchasing a worthless car.
 
Either the seller can prove they maintained the car per the manual with a log or receipts - or it's going to be checked out.

I can see maybe a guy balking at the buyer doing it, but If a guy wont let a qualified 3rd party check it out they are likely hiding something.

Popping off a valve cover and the plugs for a leak down (or minimally a compression test) is hardly "taking the engine apart", but simply doing due diligence on an expensive purchase.
Any private party who wants to do this to "check out" my car can move right along. It won't be the end of his whining; more like just the start. There'll be less trouble by the next person to come look.
 
Most important for a gen 3 is check for recalls, especially if its from the rust belt area. You could be purchasing a worthless car.
Thanks for the heads up. It has the safety brackets on and the rust doesn't look too bad. I plan on have it protected with Krown or fluid film too and hopefully get it to last a decade or so.
 
Any private party who wants to do this to "check out" my car can move right along. It won't be the end of his whining; more like just the start. There'll be less trouble by the next person to come look.

Guys selling junk say things like that.
This is basic stuff.
If you are selling a car with no docs or history and aren't willing to let someone actually check it out on their own dime no less, then I'd happily pass so you could sell it to some sucker that comes along.
 
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Thanks for the heads up. It has the safety brackets on and the rust doesn't look too bad. I plan on have it protected with Krown or fluid film too and hopefully get it to last a decade or so.

2011 Honda civic has manually adjusted valves.
If one ignores this the exhaust valves will burn.
MANY ignore this believing falsely that hondas " need no maintenance".

A super quick compression check will tell you if it's gone too far.
 
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