Seems stupid I know, but I still want to know. When you first pull out the dipstick, after a cool down or overnight, the oil will register at a certain level. When you do the typical wipe the dipstick then re-insert to check the level at this time, you may get a different reading. Some oil may actually creep up the dipstick!! Seems that way on certain cars. What procedure do you follow?? Just curious...I know as long as oil is in the hatched area all is good. Thanks
How do you check your oil?
- Thread starter greaseball
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I go by the "dry pull". The first dry pull coats the dipstick tube with oil that might get on following stick readings.
I only use a napkin when I'm on a road trip far from home, checking a hot engine at a gas station. The napkin procedure matches the cold, dry pull, BTW.
I only use a napkin when I'm on a road trip far from home, checking a hot engine at a gas station. The napkin procedure matches the cold, dry pull, BTW.
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It doesn't creep up. It gets splashed around causing it to show a higher level. That's why you wipe it off. I think that if it sits overnight you don't have to wipe the oil off since it runs down the dipstick to the actual level of the oil. I just noticed this one day but I always wipe it off and then stick it back in. Also I check in the morning when cold.
Ah. Elefino noticed this too. The first pull of the day when its cold will give you the level without having to wipe it off.
Ah. Elefino noticed this too. The first pull of the day when its cold will give you the level without having to wipe it off.
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You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
I like checking it when it sits in our level parking lot at work all day at shift end. On our previous subaru EJ253 you CANNOT get a proper cold pull reading as the dip tube is under oil, you have to wipe and reinsert. My home driveway is not level as to permit a good reading.
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Originally Posted By: Hallmark
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
For some reason i cringe at the thought of buying a used car now.
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
For some reason i cringe at the thought of buying a used car now.
I check after car has been sitting on level ground, while cold. I find its hard to see the dipstick on my new car even an hour after its been run. I like the stone cold morning pull 
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
I knew this bozo whose company car was missing a dipstick. It was not one of these oil-sensor cars designed without one, it was just plain missing. When he drove the car, a bunch of idiot lights were always on. He finally blew the engine.
But seriously, if your car is on a level spot, you can either check after it sits overnight and the oil settles or wipe the stick off at any time with the rag method and then check.
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
I knew this bozo whose company car was missing a dipstick. It was not one of these oil-sensor cars designed without one, it was just plain missing. When he drove the car, a bunch of idiot lights were always on. He finally blew the engine.
But seriously, if your car is on a level spot, you can either check after it sits overnight and the oil settles or wipe the stick off at any time with the rag method and then check.
After I drive the car, I wait for about 10 min after shut down.
Then I pop the hood.
Do a visual insepecting to everything under the hood that is easy to see. (air box is sealed, belts are ok, electrical connections are clean and secure, battery is in good condition, ect. . .)
Then I will pull the dip stick.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into the tube.
Pull said dip stick out again.
Get a reading.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into the tube.
Pull said dip stick out one last time.
Get another reading to confirm first reading.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into tube.
Wipe down engine compartment to ensure everything easy to reach and see stays clean.
Check level on coolant, PS fluid, ect. . .
Close hood.
Wipe any finger marks on said hood.
Go in the house and have a beer.
Then I pop the hood.
Do a visual insepecting to everything under the hood that is easy to see. (air box is sealed, belts are ok, electrical connections are clean and secure, battery is in good condition, ect. . .)
Then I will pull the dip stick.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into the tube.
Pull said dip stick out again.
Get a reading.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into the tube.
Pull said dip stick out one last time.
Get another reading to confirm first reading.
Wipe it clean.
Insert dip stick back into tube.
Wipe down engine compartment to ensure everything easy to reach and see stays clean.
Check level on coolant, PS fluid, ect. . .
Close hood.
Wipe any finger marks on said hood.
Go in the house and have a beer.
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
Wipe any finger marks on said hood.
Go in the house and have a beer.
Brother....I've found you! lol
Wipe any finger marks on said hood.
Go in the house and have a beer.
Brother....I've found you! lol
Quote:
On my Ford ZX2 Duratec engine, it would read way high first thing in the morning. I believe the dipstick tube developed vacuum during cooldown and sucked up the oil. It was okay for the second read.
This same thing happens on my 6.1. The initial reading is crazy high, wipe the stick and try again, get a normal one.
On my Ford ZX2 Duratec engine, it would read way high first thing in the morning. I believe the dipstick tube developed vacuum during cooldown and sucked up the oil. It was okay for the second read.
This same thing happens on my 6.1. The initial reading is crazy high, wipe the stick and try again, get a normal one.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Quote:
On my Ford ZX2 Duratec engine, it would read way high first thing in the morning. I believe the dipstick tube developed vacuum during cooldown and sucked up the oil. It was okay for the second read.
This same thing happens on my 6.1. The initial reading is crazy high, wipe the stick and try again, get a normal one.
Interesting that the dipstick tube itself seems to protrude into the standing oil. Never seen that on old-school engines.
But hows this for a funny one: Wife's 05 PT Cruiser 2.4 will always read nearly a half-quart LOW (even on a "second pull") if its checked after an overnight sit. Start the engine for a few minutes (no need to actually warm it up), wait 5-10 mins, and check again- normal. And you get the same normal reading if you check it a few minutes after a hot shut-down.
On the 2.4, the housing that contains the counter-rotating balance shafts is attached to the bottom of the main bearing caps, and sits partially submerged in oil. Overnight, the balance shaft housing fills with oil, lowering the crankcase level. There's a pump that evacuates oil from inside the housing when the engine runs (to reduce windage), so running it a few minutes pumps the oil back out into the sump and raises the reading to the normal level.
Quote:
On my Ford ZX2 Duratec engine, it would read way high first thing in the morning. I believe the dipstick tube developed vacuum during cooldown and sucked up the oil. It was okay for the second read.
This same thing happens on my 6.1. The initial reading is crazy high, wipe the stick and try again, get a normal one.
Interesting that the dipstick tube itself seems to protrude into the standing oil. Never seen that on old-school engines.
But hows this for a funny one: Wife's 05 PT Cruiser 2.4 will always read nearly a half-quart LOW (even on a "second pull") if its checked after an overnight sit. Start the engine for a few minutes (no need to actually warm it up), wait 5-10 mins, and check again- normal. And you get the same normal reading if you check it a few minutes after a hot shut-down.
On the 2.4, the housing that contains the counter-rotating balance shafts is attached to the bottom of the main bearing caps, and sits partially submerged in oil. Overnight, the balance shaft housing fills with oil, lowering the crankcase level. There's a pump that evacuates oil from inside the housing when the engine runs (to reduce windage), so running it a few minutes pumps the oil back out into the sump and raises the reading to the normal level.
Kestas
Staff member
Trivia note: I was the one that provided the first prototype of the 2.4 balance shaft housing with the window on the side.
I worked in the casting prototype shop at Chrysler back in the early 80s. An engine engineer had an idea he sketched and showed me. I looked at it and told him I could make a few modifications to the sand mold and get him castings in a day. Four days after casting, the parts were machined, installed in an engine on a test stand, where the engineer got results to go ahead with his idea and move it to production. This is before AutoCad and QS9000. I miss those days.
I worked in the casting prototype shop at Chrysler back in the early 80s. An engine engineer had an idea he sketched and showed me. I looked at it and told him I could make a few modifications to the sand mold and get him castings in a day. Four days after casting, the parts were machined, installed in an engine on a test stand, where the engineer got results to go ahead with his idea and move it to production. This is before AutoCad and QS9000. I miss those days.
Originally Posted By: greaseball
Seems stupid I know, but I still want to know. When you first pull out the dipstick, after a cool down or overnight, the oil will register at a certain level. When you do the typical wipe the dipstick then re-insert to check the level at this time, you may get a different reading. Some oil may actually creep up the dipstick!! Seems that way on certain cars. What procedure do you follow?? Just curious...I know as long as oil is in the hatched area all is good. Thanks
Switch engine off. Wait 5-10 mins. Pull out dipstick. Wipe it. Pull it back in and pull it out again, then read the level.
But different manufacturers may have different procedures. Most important is to stick to the same procedure (be consistent).
Seems stupid I know, but I still want to know. When you first pull out the dipstick, after a cool down or overnight, the oil will register at a certain level. When you do the typical wipe the dipstick then re-insert to check the level at this time, you may get a different reading. Some oil may actually creep up the dipstick!! Seems that way on certain cars. What procedure do you follow?? Just curious...I know as long as oil is in the hatched area all is good. Thanks
Switch engine off. Wait 5-10 mins. Pull out dipstick. Wipe it. Pull it back in and pull it out again, then read the level.
But different manufacturers may have different procedures. Most important is to stick to the same procedure (be consistent).
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
That is what the light is for!!!
You can always use the method that my step-daughter uses: wait until the red dash light comes on.
That is what the light is for!!!
I generally wait from 25-60 minutes after shutting it down.
Your supposed to check the oil?
On some of our veichles when you pull the dip stick with the oil hot (after whiping the stick off), the oil on the stick covers part of the stick up to the full mark and then a void and then more oil up to where the oil level is at the full mark. In other words there are places with oil and some with no oil (up to the full mark).
What causes this?
What causes this?
Whenever I'm under the hood anyhow. Generally it's when the cars are cold. That usually makes the readings pretty accurate.
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