someone told me you got to siphon the oil out through the dipstick and the filter is actually just a replacement of the fiber media. i don't think i want a car that i can't drain the oil out from the bottom, where all the nasty are. why are they making it in the way that average joe is discourge from crawling his own pride to work on it.
how do you change oil in a bimmer?
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I can't speak for all BMWs, but every one I've ever worked on had a proper drain plug. Filters on some models are a cartridge type, but I don't see any problem with this. My 83 533i had a cartridge, and my 01 525i does too. My 74 2002 has a conventional spin-on.
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Even if the BMW in question was without a drain plug, oil extraction through the dipstick tube works just fine.
Cartridge filters are fine also. I wish all cars came with them.
Cartridge filters are fine also. I wish all cars came with them.
I agree about cartridge filters, they actually make oil changes very easy and it is both less wasteful and more reliable. Usually the cartridges are mounted somewhere right in the top of the engine bay where you remove a cover and pull out the cartridge. Another benefit for BITOG types is that you don't have to cut anything open to see the element.
I wish my car had one but they came along later.
As far as I know the new BMWs still have oil drain plugs. No dipstick, perhaps, but still a drain plug.
I wish my car had one but they came along later.
As far as I know the new BMWs still have oil drain plugs. No dipstick, perhaps, but still a drain plug.
No issues on older BMWs. Early '90s and prior have regular type oil filters. Newer ones have cartridge filters. All have drain plugs.
The newest models are a little bit more difficult in that there's no dipstick--so just put in what they say is the capacity when refilling. To add to the difficulty, you need a special tool for removing the top off the cartridge filter housing.
The newest models are a little bit more difficult in that there's no dipstick--so just put in what they say is the capacity when refilling. To add to the difficulty, you need a special tool for removing the top off the cartridge filter housing.
It's "Beamer". "Bimmer" is a miss-pronunciation from New Englanders trying to use the original British term, Beamer.
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
someone told me you got to siphon the oil out through the dipstick and the filter is actually just a replacement of the fiber media.
Changing oil on my 530i is a blast using a MityVac extractor. And the cartridge-type oil filter is very easy to replace as well as it is basically right in front of you. So, you don't need to get under the car at all, but you could if you wanted to - there is a drain plug.
Quote:
i don't think i want a car that i can't drain the oil out from the bottom, where all the nasty are.
You're too stuck in your old ways. I find that the extractor takes out just as much oil as the drain method. As a matter of fact, you would have to let it drain much longer to be able to remove as much oil as the extractor can.
Some manufacturers now (like Mercedes) only use the extractor method in their service bays. I have not heard of any long term problems with this method. If you get your oil warm enough, all the 'nasty' will be suspended in your oil and will be extracted along with the oil. And the bigger 'nasty' will be trapped in your filter.
Quote:
why are they making it in the way that average joe is discourge from crawling his own pride to work on it.
You can still crawl under. There is a drain plug.
someone told me you got to siphon the oil out through the dipstick and the filter is actually just a replacement of the fiber media.
Changing oil on my 530i is a blast using a MityVac extractor. And the cartridge-type oil filter is very easy to replace as well as it is basically right in front of you. So, you don't need to get under the car at all, but you could if you wanted to - there is a drain plug.
Quote:
i don't think i want a car that i can't drain the oil out from the bottom, where all the nasty are.
You're too stuck in your old ways. I find that the extractor takes out just as much oil as the drain method. As a matter of fact, you would have to let it drain much longer to be able to remove as much oil as the extractor can.
Some manufacturers now (like Mercedes) only use the extractor method in their service bays. I have not heard of any long term problems with this method. If you get your oil warm enough, all the 'nasty' will be suspended in your oil and will be extracted along with the oil. And the bigger 'nasty' will be trapped in your filter.
Quote:
why are they making it in the way that average joe is discourge from crawling his own pride to work on it.
You can still crawl under. There is a drain plug.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's "Beamer". "Bimmer" is a miss-pronunciation from New Englanders trying to use the original British term, Beamer.
Beamer is a BMW motorcylce. Bimmer is a BMW car.
It's "Beamer". "Bimmer" is a miss-pronunciation from New Englanders trying to use the original British term, Beamer.
Beamer is a BMW motorcylce. Bimmer is a BMW car.
Remove the cartridge filter, THEN remove the drain plug.
JHZR2
Staff member
my 91 bmw has a cartridge. Love the cartridge filters...
Daimler did a LOT of analysis to determine if dipstick extraction was acceptable for removal of heavier bottoms in the oil pan. It was.
Having done the same analysis myself (dipstick pull, drop pan), Ive found that if set up right, you can actually get marginally more oil out than if just doing the drain plug bit.
JMH
Daimler did a LOT of analysis to determine if dipstick extraction was acceptable for removal of heavier bottoms in the oil pan. It was.
Having done the same analysis myself (dipstick pull, drop pan), Ive found that if set up right, you can actually get marginally more oil out than if just doing the drain plug bit.
JMH
JHZR2
Staff member
Why?
Ive always done the opposite without any issues. nothing more drains out the bottom when I pull the filter.
JMH
Ive always done the opposite without any issues. nothing more drains out the bottom when I pull the filter.
JMH
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Remove the cartridge filter, THEN remove the drain plug.
It's OK to remove the drainplug first. Just don't put the plug back in until you've removed the cartridge filter.
Remove the cartridge filter, THEN remove the drain plug.
It's OK to remove the drainplug first. Just don't put the plug back in until you've removed the cartridge filter.
Loosening the filter cap (or bolt) releases the oil inside the filter canister back into the engine, and eventually the sump.
Logically, doing so first gives that small bit of oil time to make its way to the sump, while one is in the process of preparing the car for a bottom drain, or a top extraction.
Logically, doing so first gives that small bit of oil time to make its way to the sump, while one is in the process of preparing the car for a bottom drain, or a top extraction.
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's "Beamer". "Bimmer" is a miss-pronunciation from New Englanders trying to use the original British term, Beamer.
The Brits called BMW motorcycle beemers with double e. Americans began calling BMW cars bimmers, but spelled it differently from the Brits to differentiate between bikes and cars in written form. Beemer and bimmer are homophones and pronounced "beamer." I usually don't use the term. To me it's simply a BMW, pronounced Bé M Vé, or I call it by the Series: Einser, Dreier, Fünfer, or Siebener.
It's "Beamer". "Bimmer" is a miss-pronunciation from New Englanders trying to use the original British term, Beamer.
The Brits called BMW motorcycle beemers with double e. Americans began calling BMW cars bimmers, but spelled it differently from the Brits to differentiate between bikes and cars in written form. Beemer and bimmer are homophones and pronounced "beamer." I usually don't use the term. To me it's simply a BMW, pronounced Bé M Vé, or I call it by the Series: Einser, Dreier, Fünfer, or Siebener.
Bring it to the dealer ,part of the experience of ownership.
No, "beemer" is the motorcycle and "bimmer" is the car. I thought they were both "beemer" but some time on bimmerfest.com corrected me. 
Whatever Mori it ain't built as well as ny Japanese Subaru Outback. I guess I knew that but i didn't want to admit till I had one and could compare. The engineering of the Sube is also way ahead. Sube's don't need suspension bushings, ball joints, drive belts, brake rotors etc etc at 75,000kms. Very unimpressed so far engineering wise and I havn't even touched on VANOS seals made from unsuitable material (buna n) that are known to fail in as little as 25,000 kms. BMW know it's a problem but not interested. Seriously thinking an Audi would have been a better proposition but maybe they are just as bad? If not I'm trading ASAP.
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I don't know, Steve, I've never owned a BMW. I don't care for any fancy multi-valve engines with variable camshafts and other high-tech features that likely mean expensive future repairs. I specifically bought my A4 with the very simple 2.8 liter 12 valve engine instead of waiting for the 2.8 liter 30 valve engine or the 1.8T 20 valve engine. I tend to follow the KISS principle.
How to change the oil in my Beemer ?
take 2 2x12 planks. Place in front of wheels. Drive up on them, and you can fit a 5" drain pan under it.
Use a 1/2" allen key to remove the sump plug. Drain. Remove the Z63 filter, and replace with a $2.50 of ebay Z9. Refill with Caltex SAE30 4 stroke mower oil.
take 2 2x12 planks. Place in front of wheels. Drive up on them, and you can fit a 5" drain pan under it.
Use a 1/2" allen key to remove the sump plug. Drain. Remove the Z63 filter, and replace with a $2.50 of ebay Z9. Refill with Caltex SAE30 4 stroke mower oil.
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