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I do I have a vacuum and gauges on it. 40 low 245 high which is a little low I think from what I read.
How dangerous is Freon?
- Thread starter Jesseyourcalipers
- Start date
Sigh…more statements that don’t make sense.
If you have a vacuum on it, it will read about -29 PSI.
But it reads 40 and 245. Depending on temperature, that might be high, or it might be OK.
In a previous post, in this same thread, you said that it might be overcharged. Now, you say it’s a “little low”.
Again, both cannot be true. If it has a vacuum, it has no pressure. If it has pressure, it is either over charged, just right, or undercharged, not all three at the same time.
Take this to a shop.
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Sigh lol vacuumed added Freon now has 40-245 with it being 95 out. Other post said might be over pressured because I was dealing with getting car on. That’s an old post. I’m talking now about what my gauges say after the burst that happened from idk where. Cars been running now got a long time and blowing cold. Just wanted freon at 45-50
Why 45-50? Where are you getting this number?
45 - 50 psig is too high at 95 degrees outdoors (see table below). Your high side pressure also appears to be too high. It sounds like you unknowingly opened up the gauge set valves where the high pressure backfed into the can of R-134a causing the safety relief to rupture on the bottom of the 12 oz. can. Rupturing that safety relief penetration would cause the cloud of refrigerant you described.
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Refrigerant boils at a very low temp. It is long gone.
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Omg that was it. And pressure was finally at 40 and Hugh side 250 but tomorrow is 105 so we look like we’re okayish. Thank you so much
Here are the first two pages of the Safety Data Sheet.
I would get your affairs in order.
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I agree unless a temporary fix maybe the juice ain’t worth the squeeze as I tried it with dial gauges on the wife’s GM.
One thing I hadn’t bargained for. Her 2011 has the longer PF63, and when < 2011 has the shorter PF48 oil filter. The longer filter obstructs the charge port. (If I ever did do it again, I have a PF48 that I’d install first—engine needs to run obviously as system is charged).
I got myself into a predicament where it was almost the screwdriver through the canister as a last resort. There was no access for any type of wrench with the fitting installed, not even a band type….also we’re talking about topping off. Not the real and full job where there’s evacuation.
One thing I hadn’t bargained for. Her 2011 has the longer PF63, and when < 2011 has the shorter PF48 oil filter. The longer filter obstructs the charge port. (If I ever did do it again, I have a PF48 that I’d install first—engine needs to run obviously as system is charged).
I got myself into a predicament where it was almost the screwdriver through the canister as a last resort. There was no access for any type of wrench with the fitting installed, not even a band type….also we’re talking about topping off. Not the real and full job where there’s evacuation.
It's usually a bad idea to just dump refrigerant in anything-want to recover it, preferably leak check with nitrogen, pull a vacuum to ~29 inches water column/sub 100 microns for at least an hour, put in what it's supposed to have. Stick a thermometer in a dash vent, if it's below 40F running-you're in business. There's just too many variables otherwise! Refrigerant is only dangerous if it's burned, or if there's enough of it in an unventilated area to replace the oxygen in the air, from the floor up.
You evacuated the system yourself? Sounds dangerous given the rest of this thread.
This thread started here - where you stated that you are “calling professionals”.
Now, it’s turned into you debating, and arguing, over what pressure the freon should be and you adding new facts with nearly every post.
Stick to your original plan.
A garage should have removed it all down to a vacuum, and then charged by weight which is listed in the service manual or the sticker under the hood. That is the only way to be sure it is properly charged. At the factory they put in the specified weight and send the car down the line. They don't tinker with the pressure.
There is a relief valve but it is in the back of the compressor. The refrigerant would vent under the hood if it opens.
The inhalers used for asthma contain R-134a to carry the drug. The user intentionally inhales a small amount of R-134a with each puff. This is considered harmless.
There is a relief valve but it is in the back of the compressor. The refrigerant would vent under the hood if it opens.
The inhalers used for asthma contain R-134a to carry the drug. The user intentionally inhales a small amount of R-134a with each puff. This is considered harmless.
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