anyone here done the Honda 1.5T head gasket ?

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Jul 14, 2020
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my 2017 CRV with the 1.5T is one of those that seem to have a propensity to blow the head gasket . been watching a few vids on how its done ,and it does not look to difficult. DIY should be around $600 in parts for Arp studs and head gasket and misc. Not too bad compared to the $5k or more i have seen quoted online .

So has anyone done one? was it a difficult job, or just time consuming. i am pretty sure i have all the tools needed .

 
Are those some of the studs that people claim/believe will solve this ? I've seen some mentioned ("ARP" name doesn't sound familiar) that are $400 or so just for 8-16 (??) studs and nuts.

Really curious what the success rate of these are. Seems like this is a simple resolution that Honda could implement themselves, on the other hand, that really thin wall between cylinders is still there.... which is the root of problem, as I understand it. Ford had the same design flaw on their smaller Ecoboost engines and they fixed it properly with a casting redesign.
 
Those grooves between the cylinders is the same design that Ford used on some of their engines. They were also known for blowing head gaskets. A later design change eliminated the groove and replaced them with cross drilled holes below the deck level. That provided more gasket sealing area, but not sure if it truly solved the problem.
 
Are those some of the studs that people claim/believe will solve this ? I've seen some mentioned ("ARP" name doesn't sound familiar) that are $400 or so just for 8-16 (??) studs and nuts.

Really curious what the success rate of these are. Seems like this is a simple resolution that Honda could implement themselves, on the other hand, that really thin wall between cylinders is still there.... which is the root of problem, as I understand it. Ford had the same design flaw on their smaller Ecoboost engines and they fixed it properly with a casting redesign.
Someone here - I apologize but I forget who - posted this when I asked. Still pretty new but I haven't heard of them failing since.

Whoever thought the slotted deck was a good idea doesn't live in reality.

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ARP studs supply many times the OEM head bolt clamping force between the head and block. really the only way to bullet proof a 6.0L power smoke and a LLY duramax as they were prone to blowing head gaskets.
 
my 2017 CRV with the 1.5T is one of those that seem to have a propensity to blow the head gasket . been watching a few vids on how its done ,and it does not look to difficult. DIY should be around $600 in parts for Arp studs and head gasket and misc. Not too bad compared to the $5k or more i have seen quoted online .

So has anyone done one? was it a difficult job, or just time consuming. i am pretty sure i have all the tools needed .


Go with metal if offered. They're supposed to be longer lasting.
 
The real problem with some of these turbo engines is bore spacing is just to close. Not much meat left between cylinders. They push the limits to keep the engine compact at the expense of longevity. Some good quality ARP studs will add clamping force over bolts to the mix so that would be a plus.
 
The ARP hardware is usually better quality material than the equipment it is being used on. Folks praise them too for offering many common "job kits" with every thing needed. No running here for this and there for another part etc.... Cost is higher but well worth it.
 
Are those some of the studs that people claim/believe will solve this ? I've seen some mentioned ("ARP" name doesn't sound familiar) that are $400 or so just for 8-16 (??) studs and nuts.

Really curious what the success rate of these are. Seems like this is a simple resolution that Honda could implement themselves, on the other hand, that really thin wall between cylinders is still there.... which is the root of problem, as I understand it. Ford had the same design flaw on their smaller Ecoboost engines and they fixed it properly with a casting redesign.
ARP? I have that in a ton of stuff. Caprice head bolts, all the exhaust manifolds on 5 of the vehicles, crank pulley bolts and other spots.
Quality stuff and they provide kits that can fix common problems. If I replace a fastener and ARP has it, that is what I get.
 
I'd like a go at fixing one, it would be an engine out and complete overhaul though, and take a bit of time.
 
Does head gasket sealer work on them? :D
That's a good question. I don't think it will though. Once that HG goes, now that area is under the influence of cylinder pressure, which I think will NOT allow any sealer to set up.
If I were rebuilding any of these engines, I'd have that groove welded shut and milled flat to the surface. Those grooves were there to provide cooling to the top piston area between the cylinders. Cross drilling below would work, but not sure how long a "hot" area like that contribute to block/piston/ring failure.
It might go a couple hundred thousand more before any additional failures happen.

I'd also go with the ARP studs. Additional clamping force seems warranted to me.
 
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