Specifically around 2013 or so? From what I've read the 3.5L V6 2gr-fe is a very reliable engine but it's a real pain to work on for almost anything beyond maybe replacing a serpentine belt. How good/bad is access in an AWD Highlander?
How cramped is the V6 Toyota Highlander under the hood?
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edyvw
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On HL is bad, but Sienna with 2GR-FE takes the crown of most inaccessible.
Yeah, almost impossible. Get the I4 instead 
Yeah, this is why I like the 4-cylinder Sienna so much. That's what I'd get if I needed a modern minivan.
Yeah, this is why I like the 4-cylinder Sienna so much. That's what I'd get if I needed a modern minivan.
Definitely more challenging to work on than any J series Honda.
I have an AWD 2010.
I don't find it to be that difficult. Pulling the intake and wiper cowl gets you good access to the back side bank. The intake seals are usually re-usable. Just move the throttle body, don't fully disconnect it. When doing plugs/coils, there are 2 bolts on either side of the back of the engine, for a bracket, that everyone complains about but I've never had an issue with them. You can remove many of the coils without unplugging the connector ... which is good because they'll break as soon as you depress it. If you have to remove it, don't depress the tab, use a pick and lift up on the housing to free it, and it should be problem free.
I change the plugs on it at 100K, it'll get another set shortly at 200K. That'll probably be the last set while it's under my care.
When you go in to a project, and access is difficult, just replace all of the important things along the way so you're only in there once. It's not like you're doing 3 water pumps and 3 alternators over the life of the car, at least if you're replacing it with good quality OE stuff.
If you're back doesn't like the lean-over for the back bank, just take the front wheels off and lower the car closer to the ground.
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I just finished working on a 3MZ-FE timing belt and valve cover replacement gasket.
It was torture working on it. I vastly prefer working on a 4 cylinder.
If you can avoid it, do it. But like rjndeal said, removing the wiper cowl makes a tremendous difference. So everything takes longer, requires more tools to get the right fit, but is doable.
I had to switch deep sockets, to short sockets with short to long extensions more times than I care to count to access all the different bolts. Man. What a pain!
I hear the 2GR is even harder to work on. I’ll pass on that.
It was torture working on it. I vastly prefer working on a 4 cylinder.
If you can avoid it, do it. But like rjndeal said, removing the wiper cowl makes a tremendous difference. So everything takes longer, requires more tools to get the right fit, but is doable.
I had to switch deep sockets, to short sockets with short to long extensions more times than I care to count to access all the different bolts. Man. What a pain!
I hear the 2GR is even harder to work on. I’ll pass on that.
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The hybrid gets a little worse, but mostly on the left side of vehicle.
I've never done much on these except oil changes, rear wheel bearings and the weird unobtainium radiator for the inverter (easy job).
I keep trying to get my client to ditch the engine cover as there's a nest under there EVERY time, but he thinks it's supposed to be there. I guess he can just pay me to fix rodent damage.....
I've never done much on these except oil changes, rear wheel bearings and the weird unobtainium radiator for the inverter (easy job).
I keep trying to get my client to ditch the engine cover as there's a nest under there EVERY time, but he thinks it's supposed to be there. I guess he can just pay me to fix rodent damage.....
Yeah but everyone will tell you that the I4 is underpowered. And gets the same mpg.Yeah, almost impossible. Get the I4 instead
Yeah, this is why I like the 4-cylinder Sienna so much. That's what I'd get if I needed a modern minivan.
At least in the Venza, in a minivan I can only imagine it being worse. One poster on reddit said something about the 2.7L having noisy VVTI phaser (which can be ignored) and balance shaft issues (which shouldn't?).Not that I wouldn't prefer the easier to work on I4. Just not sure how a Venza is better than a RAV4--RAV4 is more likely to come with basic steelies and a larger trunk, and maybe cheaper tires? but I'm not sure if an I4 Venza would be cheaper to buy?
You asked about 2013 (or so) which is the generation before what I have (2016 which started in 2014) but it's AWD like you asked about. Mine currently has 145k miles so only spark plugs replaced thus far. This was an easy job. It requires intake manifold removal so replace those 3 gaskets but that's really easy. I didn't replace the cowl & had no problems. Of course, that might not be the same on the previous generation.
That "or so" in your post piqued my interest in that you may mean later which would be the next generation. Not implying that's what you meant, but looking for a little clarification.
That "or so" in your post piqued my interest in that you may mean later which would be the next generation. Not implying that's what you meant, but looking for a little clarification.
“or so” generally means 2-3 years on either side. I wasn’t aware when it changed generations. Really what it means in this particular case is any AWD Highlander that’s around $15k and around 100k miles.
It’s interesting that you mentioned the Venza even though my question was about the Highlander because a Venza is one of the vehicles on my list of possibilities for an AWD vehicle. Right now the list is RAV4, Venza, Highlander, RX350 and CX-5…or a super cheap Matrix/Vibe if I stumble across a good one.
I’m strongly leaning away from the Lexus because of the V6 and this thread makes me think I should do the same for the Highlander. Logistically a RAV4 makes a lot of sense because there’s a huge aftermarket and the junkyard is full of them should I ever need parts, but the ride and comfort level of the Venza seems a lot nicer than a RAV. There’s a dealer in Cincinnati with a 2014 I4 Venza AWD with 113k miles listed at $11,650 and he’s had it for weeks now. It’s making me curious, but I keep hoping a 2015 or so low mileage base model RAV will pop up locally.
If you remove the wiper cowl you can replace the rear plugs with out removing the intake or TB. Ive done it.
Smack my head, right you are, I may have read into your thread more of what was on my mind than yours. Read what I wanted to read, not what was typed. Apologies!
I've done the cam cover gaskets on the firewall side.
It's not fun but patience and small hands will get you a long way.
There's some good YT vids.
I was surprised and disappointed at the crappy elastomers Toyota used on the cover perimeter and spark plug tubes they turned rock hard at 100,000 miles. Their metal parts are beautifully manufactured.
It's not fun but patience and small hands will get you a long way.
There's some good YT vids.
I was surprised and disappointed at the crappy elastomers Toyota used on the cover perimeter and spark plug tubes they turned rock hard at 100,000 miles. Their metal parts are beautifully manufactured.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
When one opens the hood of VW Atlas VR6, it appreciates ingenuity of VW engineers when they said: how about V, but with one head?
For the extra 10 mins it takes to remove and reinstall the cowl, it ain't worth the struggle.
But the FKS has a different plenum mounting and those do not require cowl removal IIRC.
I commend the German's for their ingenuity, but the VR6 is far from a peach to work on. Anything on the front (radiator) side of the engine is a complete pain to get to unless you take the time to put it into service position. I understand that this is par for the course for VAG vehicles (I've worked on more of them than I care to count), but having to reposition the ENTIRE core support to do some relatively basic maintenance is as ridiculous as it is unnecessary.
There's three VAG engines I'd consider to be "easy to service": the old 2.0 SOHC, early 1.8T's that had (less) junk bolted to them, and any pre-emission TDI.
This is evidence that most information posted on Reddit is garbage and should be ignored. The noisy cam phaser problem on Toyota's AR engines is potentially catastrophic and yet extremely cheap and easy to fix. I fixed mine with a 5 cent part from Temu and about an hour of my time. The balance shaft rattle is also easy to fix, but a bit more expensive. This took me about 90 minutes to fix and cost about $50 for a balance shaft damper repair kit from Ukraine.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Simple DIY stuff that regular people do is super easy on VR6. Changing spark plugs etc. That is what I was referring to.
2GR-FE is so cramped that my good friend who retired as a mechanic saw bunch where customers would complain about “transmission,” or misfire etc. just to find out that their “mechanic “ simply skipped bank under the windshield.
The interior really stepped up in '14.
'13 is fine but '14 was more refined.
If you care make sure Highlander power liftgates work. The motors are difficult to find affordably. I need one for a '13 but the owner's a senior on a budget, so he just deals with it.
'13 is fine but '14 was more refined.
If you care make sure Highlander power liftgates work. The motors are difficult to find affordably. I need one for a '13 but the owner's a senior on a budget, so he just deals with it.
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