How cold is too cold for M1 EP 15w-50

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OK, I got a bunch of M1 EP 15w-50 @ Target for real cheap. I searched some but did not see a real answer for this. I know Mobil lists the cold pour point @ -42°C and the cSt @ 40°C is 133. I will be mixing some with regular SL M1 0w-30 (1 M1 to 3 EP) but don't have enough M1 to do it with all of it, so I will be running some straight probably in the summer.
It may get below freezing a total of 24-48 hrs for the whole winter, only a couple of hours at a time.
Any problems with this?

BTW, it is in a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 4 cylinder.
 
I've used it down to -22.5C (as displayed on my dashboard)...,whatever that is in F...
 
blupupher,

My neighbor parks his Mistubishi 3000 GT outside year-round here in N.Colorado & uses only Amsoil 20W-50 in it. He says it starts up fine, even when it's 0°F or below. I used M1 15W-50 for over a year in my Saab (2.0L 4 cyl) & it started fine all winter long (IIRC, the coldest start I had that year was one somewhere around 0°F).

With the 25% 0W-30 you're mixing in, you should get something around a 10W syn for cold starts. I think you're fine down to routine drops of +10°F & occassional drops lower than that. I plan on mixing mine 50/50 with the M1 5W-40 I've already got. But I'm in the same situation; I've only got about 1/2 as much 5W-40 as I do 15W-50!

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I've run the old tri-syn M1 15w50 year round in Central Indiana...including a 3 day -38F stint back in December 1993!!! My GTI was the only car rolling!
 
OK, I figured I was OK, but wanted to double check.

As to why, Hyundai has said they recommend a thicker oil to help reduce lifter tick (I have none, but the 50 weight is ok to run). I figure for $1.22/qt I could not pass it up. I may use a 50/50 blend of the M1 and EP and save the rest for lawn equipment or my brother-in-laws CJ. I may also go exchange it for some 5w-30 EP.
 
I think I have chest pains!!!
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You guys ARE daring, that's for sure. Granted, you're mixing in some 0w-30, but still...15W-50 down to -8 deg.f...with 20w-50 even! "You're kill me!"

One question though - Just what kind of trip duration will this oil see?
 
"You guys ARE daring, that's for sure. Granted, you're mixing in some 0w-30, but still...15W-50 down to -8 deg.f...with 20w-50 even!"

Back in 95 I moved to Ohio from the SoCal desert. I didn't know any better and ran at least SAE40 straight weight in my 360 Mopar.

I found SAE50 and was in heaven!
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The old Mopar started every morning right down to -10F a few days.
 
Mine is mostly highway, 52 miles each way to work, about 20,000 miles a year. If it was a short tripper (like my wife's car), I would not even be asking. My oil gets to temp probably 95% of the time I drive it.
 
How many miles do you have on your Elantra?

I own a Tiburon with a older version of your engine (known as the Beta I- 2002+ have the Beta II). Basically differences in Intake Manifold design etc. for better emmissions.

Anyhoo, the BETA is an EXTREMELY competent and reliable engine, on par with Toyota's IMZ line(Camry/Avalon/Sienna/ Highlander V6). As such, it is rare that it will consume oil, especially not enough to warrant anything thicker than 10W-30.
 
So running EP 15w50 would be no problemo then esp in SoCal winter...I might consider running Delo 15w40 as well come the colder months.

I wonder which has a better cold flow..Grp II+ dino based thinner Delo 15w40 or Grp IV PAO synthetic thicker EP 15w50?

This would be for the hi miler old skool 190E.
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I'm in the same situation, but I got my M1 15w-50 EP for $1.08 a quart at Target. Went to all three in town, ended up with about a dozen quarts. Went back a week later, and they all went up in price to $5.62. Mixing it with M1 5w-20 and 5w-30 EP depending on season in my 97 Avalon.
 
I ran 15W50 in a chevy truck and at -20 it would not start. When it warmed up to about 0 it popped right off. Another thing to consider, 50W will cause oil seal failure in some cars. Saw it happen in a new opel Manta, (ok that was a few years ago) beware just the same. RW
 
quote:


I wonder which has a better cold flow..Grp II+ dino based thinner Delo 15w40 or Grp IV PAO synthetic thicker EP 15w50?


According to their respective data sheets, the Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 (SL/CI-4+) has a cSt at 40°C of 125 and a pour point of -31°F whereas the M1 EP 15w-50 (SL) has a cSt at 40°C 133 and a pour point of -42°F.

I'd give the edge to the PAO-based product in a numbers vs numbers scenario. But still, it's simply too thick for repeated cold starts under 10°F IMO.
 
Yes, I too would figure it just too risky for my investment.

Comparing the flow of a group 2 to a PAO, I would think that the wax crystals, though not interconnected, could still pose further flow resistance. Beyond that thought, I suppose this is where the viscosity calculator would be of great help. Do a search, and then with the oil's VI and 40 or 100 deg.c numbers, it can calculate out a proximation at your desired temp.

Take care.
 
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a bit. Would mixing 2 qts Mobil 1 10w30 (to get rid of my stash) with 2 qts Mobil 1 0w30
give me a 5w30?
 
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