Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Here is a little more back ground on my 1997 Vortec 350. It has 140,000 miles and the intake manafold gasket did leak in the oil back around the 100,000 miles mark. I caught it very early through UOA's and had it fixed right away. Is this gasket faliure because of the Dexcool? I always thought it was because it had 100,000 miles on it. How much damage will the new gasket with 40,000 miles on it have at this point? The truck has been in storage for almost 2 years and will be put back in to use soon.
If I go back to the green stuff will it be better for my seals, gaskets and engine overall? If so how do I flush it to make sure I have ALL the Dex out and only new green coolent? Can I do it with my garden hose? Many thanks!
Well, first off the original LIMs probably did fail sooner than they should have at least partly because of DexCool. 350s didn't USED to do that at only 100k miles after all.
Second- what kind of gaskets were used when they were replaced? If you can find out the brand and part number in there, someone here might be able to tell you if they are more DexCool tolerant. IF they're new and upgraded gaskets, they will probably be fine indefinitely.
If you do switch coolants, going back to conventional inorganic coolant (commonly called "green," but color means nothing) is one choice. Another would be G-05, and another would be Peak Global Lifetime. My personal pick is G-05, because Ford and Chrysler have used it with such success and I've never heard of any issues in using it in systems intended for inorganic (I've converted 2 of my vintage cars to it). I would probably use G-05 or PGL instead of conventional simply because its getting to where its harder to find a coolant that you really KNOW is an old-style inorganic additive coolant. Its still out there, and most 'store brand' coolants are still inorganic. But without reading data sheets, its a little hard to tell. On the other hand, if it says "Peak Global Lifetime" or "G-05" on the label, you know what you're getting.
Flushing- my preferred method is to open the block drain plugs on the lower/sides of a v8 block like your 350. I then flush with a "T" in a heater hose and a garden hose, and then let the block and radiator drain fully again. If the block drain plugs are impossible to get to, or you can't get them out without rounding them off, then drain as much as you can, flush with a garden hose, fill with distilled water and idle until the engine warms up fully and water circulates, drain, and refill with your new coolant. Any remaining 2EHA will be very very diluted at that point.