What would I get? I see some of you add 1qt of redline to your blends. Why do you do that?
How about 4 qts Chevron Supreme 10W30 with 1 qt Redline 10W30
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The UOA's where one quart of Redline was added to three or four quarts of dino oil all come back looking pretty good.
That said, the UOA's to beat are the Havoline (and Chevron as well) dino UOA's. They're actually better than synthetic UOA's from the standpoint of engine wear.
So, you ask "What would I get?" Probably a UOA similar to what you'd see with straight Chevron, and a lighter wallet.
Dan
That said, the UOA's to beat are the Havoline (and Chevron as well) dino UOA's. They're actually better than synthetic UOA's from the standpoint of engine wear.
So, you ask "What would I get?" Probably a UOA similar to what you'd see with straight Chevron, and a lighter wallet.
Dan
I'm basically doing that now. 4 qts Havoline 5w30 SM and 1 qt Red Line 10w30. They actually have similar ratios of Moly to Zddp. It's just that the Redline has more plus Esters and PAO. It basically brings the ZDDP to SL and the brew should have about 400 ppm of Moly. The Moly's probably aren't identical but at least your using 2 oils that go about there business in the same way. I'm looking for 5k changes w/ LC and I love how quiet the mix is in my motor. Other people have noticed without me asking.
I just don't see how 1q of any blended oil in a crankcase will do anything other than raise or lower the visc slightly and add a few $ to the owner's cost.
Also, doesn't the RL help by doing a little cleaning as well? That's what I've heard because of all the esters and what not in the RL....
Audi Junkie, 20% synth is more than was used in most sl blends that have proven to hold up better than dino and a bit of ester will help to keep oil(with adds) on the metal when sitting. So your basically saying that for example, Schaeffers blend is no better than their micro moly oils. For an extra $6 I'll get 1 or 2K longer OCI with oils I like and a boost in adds. The 5k interval is an easy one to keep and who knows, I might get 7.5K. Redline isn't just another oil and has proven to work well as an add in many different combos. If this blend doesn't work well, I wouldn't be saving any money as I would just do full synth instead. I'm no genius and this combo may not be special in any way but why approach this with blinders on.
[ June 08, 2005, 09:02 PM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
[ June 08, 2005, 09:02 PM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
I like the idea - with my kids' cars I add GC to the Quaker State 10w30 - a kind of Castrol Magnatec. No lecture in the world has stopped them from jumping in a taking off in their Honda and Mazda. It's got to help at start up.
Plus I added GC to Trop Artic in my Buick to notch up the vis. and add the polar esters.
Other's have said they like Redline as their additive of choice. As far as the mix - it's been said the syn blends are only 20% anyway.
Plus I added GC to Trop Artic in my Buick to notch up the vis. and add the polar esters.
Other's have said they like Redline as their additive of choice. As far as the mix - it's been said the syn blends are only 20% anyway.
I've been thinking about changed over my three vehicles from Mobil-1 to a new super mix that has to be a well kept secret.
1-Quart Coastal 20w50
1-Quart Coastal 10w30
2-cans marvel mystery oil
3-cans STP oil treatment
1- quart 85w140 gear oil
I am sure that this top secret mix is better than anything all the scientists and engineers at the oil and cars companies can come up with.And I going to run it for 7000 miles with my secret stash of Lee oil filters
1-Quart Coastal 20w50
1-Quart Coastal 10w30
2-cans marvel mystery oil
3-cans STP oil treatment
1- quart 85w140 gear oil
I am sure that this top secret mix is better than anything all the scientists and engineers at the oil and cars companies can come up with.And I going to run it for 7000 miles with my secret stash of Lee oil filters
Make sure you use it with that scientifically designed Fram oil filter and make sure you never use LC because your oil is perfect to begin with. After all, it was designed by scientists. Marketing and price tells the scientists what they can do and then they try their best and often make products like Fram or grpIII synths at true synth prices. If there was one best way to do an oil at a price, they would all look the same. I'm not making claims about this combo. I'm just trying it. Thanks for that very informative sarcasm and beautiful prose. It's really made me rethink my position. Hey, this sarcasm thing is kinda fun.
[ June 09, 2005, 07:20 AM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
[ June 09, 2005, 07:20 AM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
Goodvibes, I have a ton of oil purchased for a $1. The wifes Van needs to be changed out every 3k, so I mix 4 quarts of Dino, 1 quart Synthetic. I try to stick with same company oils (Exxon & Mobil in this case or GC w/ some Castrol Startup) but I've also done a grab bag mix before with 5 different oils in a winter beater and it ran fine. Oil today is so good it would be hard to screw up a home made blend IMO. Mix away!
The Redline may give better cold flow, may do some cleaning, and may do a lot of other good things. Some say that the ester's affinity for metal competes with the zddp and so can displace the zddp causing less protection. Who knows?
Edvap, that's basically my opinion here and I did try to find the dino with a chemistry that seemingly mimics Red Line the closest as to not have the oils possibly working against each other, however unlikely. I do know that the mix may not perform better than just using Havoline on its own but it won't hurt anything either and if nothing else the motor is very quiet. I'd like to add here that if I were a scientist designing an oil for Joe average, I would be very cautious about using a lot of ester in the blend. It's not a component I would want in a motor that doesn't get up to temp regularly. It's a reasonable compromise for them to make as Mobil did in M1 but not applicable to my circumstances. There is still some ester in Mobils Delvac oils that are for vehicles that pile on the miles and don't need to worry about moisture. There's no best oil for everyone or even every motor do to driving style. It seems Green GC has come the closest but some poeple don't see less wear than other oils and some get worse mileage. I'll give a sample to Terry on my second fill and see what he thinks.
[ June 09, 2005, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
[ June 09, 2005, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
Thanks for the input. The reason I asked is because I have a dilemma. I have a car that is used for around town driving, so I want to reduce the OCI. So, because of the reduced OCI I am thinking of moving away from synthetic. I like synthetic, but have a hard time justifying the cost for a short OCI.
So, this mix would be for a car that will have a short OCI due to "short trip" driving.
Goodvibes, why wouldn't you use the 5W30 redline and the 10W30 Havoline? Isn't the 5W30 redline more shear stable? I am surprised you trust the 5W30 dino oils. Is'nt the 5W30 dino really just a 20 weight oil after while?
So, this mix would be for a car that will have a short OCI due to "short trip" driving.
Goodvibes, why wouldn't you use the 5W30 redline and the 10W30 Havoline? Isn't the 5W30 redline more shear stable? I am surprised you trust the 5W30 dino oils. Is'nt the 5W30 dino really just a 20 weight oil after while?
Winston, I've got a case of the Redline 10w30 because it doesn't use Visc improvers and I didn't mixing 2 different improvers would help matters. I definitely wanted SM Havoline. The 10w30 I found was all SL or I would have used it instead. I don't think it's a big deal though. I plan on 5k OCIs with LC so the motor should stay clean and if it thins a bit, it wouldn't bother me on the 2zz Toyota motor.
After reading Mola's article on Borate esters and how various AW and EP additives form films and plates USING DIFFERENT PHYSICAL PROCESS, I am off from mixing...except maybe within products, just different viscs. I will be doing another Havoline synth/Delo blend in MILs A6 though, I already have the oil stocked.
PCMOs are 'castrated oils' as they're compromising wear protection and cleanliness for petty mileage gains and emissions. HDEOs are primarily designed to deal with such issues, with the primary compromise being one of doing so economically.
Excellent point, well put. One reason I stay away from Starburst, Energy Conserving oils and SM oils. But the scalpel wielders are now looking at HDMOs.
1st, Can you explain this? What oils are the PCMO's?
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