House Wiring Question

[CarbonSteel]

We recently moved from Houston to Colorado Springs and have been making improvements as expected when buying a used house. I spent the past weekend replacing all of the switches and receptacles in the house. It was built in 2002 and many of the receptacles would no longer firmly hold a plug and the switches were toggle type which I have hated “forever”. The originals were all Leviton and I replaced them with Eaton “Decora” style.

I have also never been a fan of the push in “quick connect” type of wiring and have always used the side screws for all of my connections. A number of the 3 Way switches had cracked/broken plastic where the wires were pushed in so I am glad that I elected to replace the switches along with the receptacles. Another thing that I noticed is the electricians used both quick connect and side screws on many of the receptacles with 6 or more wires connected to about 10 of the receptacles.

From my experience, this is a not correct and not to be done. When you have this situation, you should instead wire nut the bulk of the wires together with a single wire extended to the receptacle which is what I did for all instances that I encountered.

It has been more than a minute since I reviewed the electrical codes, but can any electricians tell me if something changed and the current trend is to use both side screws and quick connect to “bond” all of the wires as opposed to wire nutting them together? I am assuming this is a way for the electrician company to save time, but it seems both lame and lazy.

 

[Rand]

Sounds like apprentice work at best.. or some hilljack home remodeler hacked it.

Were they GFI outlets passing on GFI protection? Thats the only reason I could think for odd hookup.

if you are still using wire nuts let me suggest.. the best thing since sliced bread

Wago connectors.

Wago 221-412 2-Conductor Compact Splicing Connectors (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Wago 221-412 2-Conductor Compact Splicing Connectors (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

They have 2-3-4 versions.. clamp really tight and are not finicky like wirenuts.

I used them when replacing 3 ceiling fixtures.. and doing some wiring 12ft up on a shop ceiling.. (changing ballasts on old florescent lights)
REALLY LIKE THEM.. cant overstate how nice they are.

Also figured out how to use the irwin 8" auto wire stripper I got on clearance(8$) correctly... its a nice upgrade over my 2.99$ radio shack manual version I had previously

 

[Hall]

Not an electrician but I still know that neither switches nor outlets are "junction" devices. 1 wire per screw. I'm not sure if using a screw for 1 wire and a quick-connect for another wire is ideal but if it was against UL, the device maker would have to design them in such a way to simply not allow both to be used at the same time.

You did the right thing by wire-nutting multiple conductors together then running one wire to the device's connection.

 

[supton]

Love those Wago's, use then for my wiring. Vastly easier to use and work great regardless of stranded or solid.

Might be lazy and lame, but daisy chaining the wire (using both screws to connect to outlet plus to connect the next wire) does make it easier, less stuff to shove into a box that usually seems too small for what is needed. [But that is one wire per screw!]

 

[CarbonSteel]

Love those Wago's, use then for my wiring. Vastly easier to use and work great regardless of stranded or solid.

Might be lazy and lame, but daisy chaining the wire (using both screws to connect to outlet plus to connect the next wire) does make it easier, less stuff to shove into a box that usually seems too small for what is needed. [But that is one wire per screw!]

If only 5 wires (1 ground, 2 neutral, and 2 hot), it would not be lazy or lame--I would have had no issues there as that is the correct way. Either 4 wires into quick connect or 4 wires under the side screws and the vast majority of the receptacles were wired this way. It was the 10 or so that had more than 5 wires--couple had 7+ wires where they used both quick connect and side screws forming a b@$tardized junction box that gave me heartburn.

 

[mk378]

A backwire outlet has slots in the back for two wires per screw under the clamping plate. There is one on each side, so they both get good clamping force. Technically one more wire can be wrapped around under the screw head though that's not a good idea.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Sounds like apprentice work at best.. or some hilljack home remodeler hacked it.

Were they GFI outlets passing on GFI protection? Thats the only reason I could think for odd hookup.

if you are still using wire nuts let me suggest.. the best thing since sliced bread

Wago connectors.

Wago 221-412 2-Conductor Compact Splicing Connectors (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Wago 221-412 2-Conductor Compact Splicing Connectors (Pack of 100): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

They have 2-3-4 versions.. clamp really tight and are not finicky like wirenuts.

I used them when replacing 3 ceiling fixtures.. and doing some wiring 12ft up on a shop ceiling.. (changing ballasts on old florescent lights)
REALLY LIKE THEM.. cant overstate how nice they are.

Also figured out how to use the irwin 8" auto wire stripper I got on clearance(8$) correctly... its a nice upgrade over my 2.99$ radio shack manual version I had previously

Not GFCI, just standard receptacles--just lazy or imcompetent or a combination of both. Those wago connectors look nice, but appear to be pretty big. I do not think I could have fit 2 of those into a standard receptacle box, but definitely something to consider in the future.

 

[CarbonSteel]

A backwire outlet has slots in the back for two wires per screw under the clamping plate. There is one on each side, so they both get good clamping force. Technically one more wire can be wrapped around under the screw head though that's not a good idea.

New switches and receptacles have these, but back in 2001, it was quick connect or side screw only (at least on the Levitons they installed). I used the side screw for the receptacles since they see "movement" when plugging/unplugging, but I used the clamping plates on the switches. A few less "eyes" to make on the dozens I replaced.

 

[Rand]

Not GFCI, just standard receptacles--just lazy or imcompetent or a combination of both. Those wago connectors look nice, but appear to be pretty big. I do not think I could have fit 2 of those into a standard receptacle box, but definitely something to consider in the future.

they are smaller than the picture appears the 2wire connector is about my thumbnail size.

 

[Hall]

Might be lazy and lame, but daisy chaining the wire (using both screws to connect to outlet plus to connect the next wire) does make it easier, less stuff

Outlets are designed to do this. There's nothing wrong at all with doing it (technically it could go against what I said above that devices aren't "junction" devices).

A backwire outlet has slots in the back for two wires per screw under the clamping plate. There is one on each side, so they both get good clamping force.

People often mix up "back stab" with backwire. They are vastly different and backwiring is much, much better connection than even using shepherd hooks on the screw terminals. You typically don't see backwire connections on residential-grade outlets though, only commercial-grade or higher.

Technically one more wire can be under the screw head though that's not a good idea.

It's against code. Yes, you can make it fit but it shouldn't be done. I replaced switches and outlets in our house and ran across 2-3 switches or outlets (total) that they did this and I made them right by pigtailing.

 

[CarbonSteel]

People often mix up "back stab" with backwire. They are vastly different and backwiring is much, much better connection than even using shepherd hooks on the screw terminals. You typically don't see backwire connections on residential-grade outlets though, only commercial-grade or higher.

What is the difference? When I look at backwired outlets online, they are "backstab" or quick connect. Are you referring to receptacles or switches that have wires permanently affixed and need wire nuts or other connection types to connect to the solid wires or are you referring to switches/receptacles that have the side plate under the side screws that allow for an eye under the screw or to insert the wire directly under the plate and tighten the side screw? The Eaton switches/receptacles I used had back "quick connect stab in" connections, side plate with rear openings, and traditional side screws.

The dimmers that I replaced (Lutron) all had permanently attached stranded wire that does not work very well with solid copper--nearly impossible to get a good connection with a wire nut unless you strip quite a bit of the stranded wire to wrap several times around the solid copper. I typically use Buchanan splice caps on those.

 

[Leo99]

I asked this question about 12 years ago and was told it was ok to use both the screws and backstab on a receptacle.

On another note, I don't think I'll ever use wire nuts again. Those new connectors look much easier and secure.

 

[supton]

What is the difference? When I look at backwired outlets online, they are "backstab" or quick connect.

What are "backstab" receptacles/outlets?

Several questions and answers on the site mention electrical outlets or receptacles with "backstab" holes (just a short while ago, here). I'm sure people in the US find that description t...

diy.stackexchange.com

What does it mean if an electrical outlet is "backstabbed"?

Answer (1 of 6): I see that you live in the US, so this answer is for the US. Devices can be wired in a number of ways: * Side Wired (the most common connection method) * Push-in Back Wired “Backstabbed” * Back Wired - Screw & Clamp Plate * Plug-Connected Side Wired Side wiring is the cl...

www.quora.com

You're note, for this backwire, all you have to do is strip the wire 3/8" inch or so, then slide the wire under the clamp. If you rework the junction, you can, there is no twisted wire here.

 

[Job]

Price determines grade, from 59 cents residential, to about $3 for commercial, to about $8 for industrial. The commercial and industrial have the back wiring clamping with the screws. Industrial has holes in the back. A trip to the hardware store to study them tells all about it. The contacts are also better and the face material stronger. Any brand has them all, Leviton is made in USA, or was.

Also discovered Wago and used them on some car wiring too, for 24 gauge. They go down to that. Used them to replace a bunch of home wire nuts jammed into a box. They go up to five wires I think. Maybe they have even more options. So easy, and better. Easy to undo the wires too.

 

[CarbonSteel]

What are "backstab" receptacles/outlets?

Several questions and answers on the site mention electrical outlets or receptacles with "backstab" holes (just a short while ago, here). I'm sure people in the US find that description t...

diy.stackexchange.com

View attachment 80960

What does it mean if an electrical outlet is "backstabbed"?

Answer (1 of 6): I see that you live in the US, so this answer is for the US. Devices can be wired in a number of ways: * Side Wired (the most common connection method) * Push-in Back Wired “Backstabbed” * Back Wired - Screw & Clamp Plate * Plug-Connected Side Wired Side wiring is the cl...

www.quora.com

View attachment 80961




You're note, for this backwire, all you have to do is strip the wire 3/8" inch or so, then slide the wire under the clamp. If you rework the junction, you can, there is no twisted wire here.

Yep; ok, this was my understanding as well. Eaton switches have all 3 connection types--backstab, screw and plate, and side screw. Their receptacles only have backstab or side screw. I chose Eaton based upon some videos I saw of Leviton vs. Eaton vs. Legrand. The quality of the Eaton far surpasses Leviton and they were easy to get and were less than the Legrand (which I could not find anyway).

 

[JHZR2]

Good for you to replace stuff that’s not working well. I’m surprised that such new stuff is having such issues. I still regularly use very old switches and recepticles.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Price determines grade, from 59 cents residential, to about $3 for commercial, to about $8 for industrial. The commercial and industrial have the back wiring clamping with the screws. Industrial has holes in the back. A trip to the hardware store to study them tells all about it. The contacts are also better and the face material stronger. Any brand has them all, Leviton is made in USA, or was.

I chose Eaton based upon this comparison:

 

[CarbonSteel]

Good for you to replace stuff that’s not working well. I’m surprised that such new stuff is having such issues. I still regularly use very old switches and recepticles.

In fairness, all of the receptacles were 20 years old, but many of the switches and dimmers were less than 10 (based upon the style and model). The usual suspects are the ones which were worn out--bathroom, hallways, entry ways, etc.

 

[Hall]

What is the difference?

Back wired uses a screw + clamp to secure the wire. Backstab is a relatively blind hole with metal contacts that are spring-loaded that holds the wire in place. On residential devices, the ones that sell for $0.50 or so, generally will NOT have back-wired, only screw terminals and backstab.

I see that this is probably sorted out now. I started typing this before seeing many posts after your question.

Are you referring to receptacles or switches that have wires permanently affixed and need wire nuts

No. I've only seen this with "smart" devices. I presume it's for ease of installation for DIYers.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Back wired uses a screw + clamp to secure the wire. Backstab is a relatively blind hole with metal contacts that are spring-loaded that holds the wire in place. On residential devices, the ones that sell for $0.50 or so, generally will NOT have back-wired, only screw terminals and backstab.

I see that this is probably sorted out now. I started typing this before seeing many posts after your question.


No. I've only seen this with "smart" devices. I presume it's for ease of installation for DIYers.

Yep; all good. I am glad that I chose Eaton over Leviton. Based upon what I have read about Eaton they bring some of their commercial features into their residential line.