So my girl friends dart has the new style hose clamps from Chrysler . Sorry I'm not familiar with the name of them but any way her radiator hose was seeping and the dealer saw it when they had it in for the warranty work. The advisor strictly said only use those oem clamps. Why ? What's better about them? Since when did hose clamps become no good? Any opinions?
Hose Clamps pros and cons
- Thread starter ram_man
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What style is that?
If you're asking about whats wrong with screw clamps, they put uneven pressure on the hose. There is a spot under the screw part that gets a lot of pressure; the rest of the clamp does not get as much.
They dont adjust to the expansion/contraction due to temperature changes, leading to cold leaks.
You can easily over tighten them and cut into the hose.
If you're asking about whats wrong with screw clamps, they put uneven pressure on the hose. There is a spot under the screw part that gets a lot of pressure; the rest of the clamp does not get as much.
They dont adjust to the expansion/contraction due to temperature changes, leading to cold leaks.
You can easily over tighten them and cut into the hose.
Listen to the advisor.
Because "pros before hose".
Get it?
Because "pros before hose".
Get it?
There is the spring type that hold strictly based on the tension. Those are the OEM type on every Japanese make vehicle I've seen. Then there's the "worm gear" type that I see in auto parts stores. Something like this:
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well these clamps are a one time use and clearly don't last very long ......I can't fathom these being the only decent option
Its a double ear crimp clamp, they will last the life of the hose or until removing it becomes necessary to remove it for another repair. They need to be properly crimped to seal, the tool that installed it if automatic was probably set light or if hand crimped not enough force was applied.
That being said they are not ideal for this application especially if the radiator has a plastic neck, a constant tension spring band clamp is best for these connections.
I always put a thin film of Hylomar on plastic necks before putting the hose on, it will never leak and will not make the hose anymore difficult to remove later.
Attn Subaru owners with plastic thermostat housings that like to drip once the temp drops to 0f. This is the fix.
Well these clamps are a one time use and clearly don't last very long ......I can't fathom these being the only decent option
Its a double ear crimp clamp, they will last the life of the hose or until removing it becomes necessary to remove it for another repair. They need to be properly crimped to seal, the tool that installed it if automatic was probably set light or if hand crimped not enough force was applied.
That being said they are not ideal for this application especially if the radiator has a plastic neck, a constant tension spring band clamp is best for these connections.
I always put a thin film of Hylomar on plastic necks before putting the hose on, it will never leak and will not make the hose anymore difficult to remove later.
Attn Subaru owners with plastic thermostat housings that like to drip once the temp drops to 0f. This is the fix.
Yo Trav, What's Hylomar? I have a buddy who applies a THIN smear of silicone sealer on barbs.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
This is the preferred hose clamp type:
Originally Posted By: Kira
Yo Trav, What's Hylomar? I have a buddy who applies a THIN smear of silicone sealer on barbs.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
Kira, this is best little known product for DIY there is as far as sealers go, I use a lot of it and keep a few tubes on hand. The only place its not best is as a thick filler on end gap gaskets, silicone is best suited for that but for almost everything else this is superior in every way. You want the M it is a medium viscosity and perfect for automotive uses.
Getting the hose of later is no problem whatsoever, just a little twist and it comes right off. It also acts as a short term lube when installing the hose. Once you use it you will never be without it. Now I only buy the smallest tube of silicone I can get then throw it out after use because it goes hard in the tube thats how little I use it anymore.
This is a decent price for USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYLOMAR-M-BLUE-UNIVERSAL-JOINTING-COMPOUND-/192106179636?hash=item2cba6bac34:g:9~cAAOSwFNZWyyIC
Some info.
http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
Yo Trav, What's Hylomar? I have a buddy who applies a THIN smear of silicone sealer on barbs.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
Kira, this is best little known product for DIY there is as far as sealers go, I use a lot of it and keep a few tubes on hand. The only place its not best is as a thick filler on end gap gaskets, silicone is best suited for that but for almost everything else this is superior in every way. You want the M it is a medium viscosity and perfect for automotive uses.
Getting the hose of later is no problem whatsoever, just a little twist and it comes right off. It also acts as a short term lube when installing the hose. Once you use it you will never be without it. Now I only buy the smallest tube of silicone I can get then throw it out after use because it goes hard in the tube thats how little I use it anymore.
This is a decent price for USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYLOMAR-M-BLUE-UNIVERSAL-JOINTING-COMPOUND-/192106179636?hash=item2cba6bac34:g:9~cAAOSwFNZWyyIC
Some info.
http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Kira
Yo Trav, What's Hylomar? I have a buddy who applies a THIN smear of silicone sealer on barbs.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
Kira, this is best little known product for DIY there is as far as sealers go, I use a lot of it and keep a few tubes on hand. The only place its not best is as a thick filler on end gap gaskets, silicone is best suited for that but for almost everything else this is superior in every way. You want the M it is a medium viscosity and perfect for automotive uses.
Getting the hose of later is no problem whatsoever, just a little twist and it comes right off. It also acts as a short term lube when installing the hose. Once you use it you will never be without it. Now I only buy the smallest tube of silicone I can get then throw it out after use because it goes hard in the tube thats how little I use it anymore.
This is a decent price for USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYLOMAR-M-BLUE-UNIVERSAL-JOINTING-COMPOUND-/192106179636?hash=item2cba6bac34:g:9~cAAOSwFNZWyyIC
Some info.
http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
Trav, you are a living wikipedia with a plethora of infomration.
I learned something new today and I always struggle with removing those [censored] hoses!
Thank you for this Hylomar, bookmarked
Originally Posted By: Kira
Yo Trav, What's Hylomar? I have a buddy who applies a THIN smear of silicone sealer on barbs.
I have no problem with wiping a sealer on any hose/pipe barb but I do want it to let the hose off.
Kira, this is best little known product for DIY there is as far as sealers go, I use a lot of it and keep a few tubes on hand. The only place its not best is as a thick filler on end gap gaskets, silicone is best suited for that but for almost everything else this is superior in every way. You want the M it is a medium viscosity and perfect for automotive uses.
Getting the hose of later is no problem whatsoever, just a little twist and it comes right off. It also acts as a short term lube when installing the hose. Once you use it you will never be without it. Now I only buy the smallest tube of silicone I can get then throw it out after use because it goes hard in the tube thats how little I use it anymore.
This is a decent price for USA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYLOMAR-M-BLUE-UNIVERSAL-JOINTING-COMPOUND-/192106179636?hash=item2cba6bac34:g:9~cAAOSwFNZWyyIC
Some info.
http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
Trav, you are a living wikipedia with a plethora of infomration.
I learned something new today and I always struggle with removing those [censored] hoses!
Thank you for this Hylomar, bookmarked
Those are called Mubea constant tension clamps. Mubea is one of the biggest manufacturer of that type hose clamp. Can't be beat. Far superior to the screw type clamp. Others will disagree and that's OK.
Those Mubea clamps are best dealt handled with the right tool, FWIW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3DP2KC/
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
This is the preferred hose clamp type:
Yes and whenever I'm at the salvage yard I take as many as I can. They're not available any place else. Not even the dealer.
This is the preferred hose clamp type:
Yes and whenever I'm at the salvage yard I take as many as I can. They're not available any place else. Not even the dealer.
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
There is the spring type that hold strictly based on the tension. Those are the OEM type on every Japanese make vehicle I've seen. Then there's the "worm gear" type that I see in auto parts stores. Something like this:
The irony here is that the clamp in the picture is a very high quality screw clamp, not to be confused with the 30 cent parts store junk.
There is the spring type that hold strictly based on the tension. Those are the OEM type on every Japanese make vehicle I've seen. Then there's the "worm gear" type that I see in auto parts stores. Something like this:
The irony here is that the clamp in the picture is a very high quality screw clamp, not to be confused with the 30 cent parts store junk.
Perhaps a different application but what about T-Bolt type clamps (used on larger hoses like turbo inlet/output air pathways) as opposed to the screw worm type band (which is the OEM style on my car)??
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
Yes. Another excellent option are the Gates thermal band clamp.
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
Yes. Another excellent option are the Gates thermal band clamp.
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
Perhaps a different application but what about T-Bolt type clamps (used on larger hoses like turbo inlet/output air pathways) as opposed to the screw worm type band (which is the OEM style on my car)??
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
I did use T bolt clamps on all my turbo connections. I found they are prone to over tightening and distorting (crushing) the aluminum tubing. I just use regular worm clamps now and only use the T bolt clamps where their is a cast part the clamp won't crush, turbo outlet and throttle body. But with coolant I use the sealer from Permatex and worm clamps. Had one spot where the radiator hose outlet doesn't have a bead and it was a pain to keep form leaking.
Perhaps a different application but what about T-Bolt type clamps (used on larger hoses like turbo inlet/output air pathways) as opposed to the screw worm type band (which is the OEM style on my car)??
Just to be clear I understand all this, the "Mubea" constant tension spring clamps are best for coolant hoses over the worm gear type clamp?
I did use T bolt clamps on all my turbo connections. I found they are prone to over tightening and distorting (crushing) the aluminum tubing. I just use regular worm clamps now and only use the T bolt clamps where their is a cast part the clamp won't crush, turbo outlet and throttle body. But with coolant I use the sealer from Permatex and worm clamps. Had one spot where the radiator hose outlet doesn't have a bead and it was a pain to keep form leaking.
A 2015 dart has no warranty and is already leaking coolant? If it has a plastic neck and a clamp that requires a tool to put on that is specialty, I wouldn't mess with it.
Probably related to 66 Dodge Dart I special ordered.*@#$$&^^*&&^%$#@
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