I posted this on the Ody forum and have gotten a lot of views but not a single reply. Hoping someone Like Trav, Clinebarger, The Critic might have an idea. This van has been keeping me busy lately. Body and interior are mint and engine and trans are strong even with the varnish on one side as I have previously posted, plus it has new timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, fuel pump. Once the kid is off to college it will be time to part with it but need to keep it running a bit longer.
I am leaning toward an intermittent PCM but not sure.
I have read around the forums that the intermittent crank(turns over) but no start is normally caused by relays. In my case I believe it is not the relays as it was one of the first things I eplaced. All the relays related to the PCM and fuel pump it with the new OEM Denso relays that are made in Japan. But I still encounter the problem.
I have a prosumer scan tool indicates no codes and graphing PIDS for all sensors look normal. When the vehicle it is acting up I have tried the fuel pump actuation test from the scan tool and the scan tool reports the fuel pump is running but in reality it is not.
The crank but no start condition NEVER occurs first thing in the morning. Van always starts instantly in the morning, but after the first drive, the condition can randomly happen through out the day. If you wait several hours it will it will resolve itself. It will never just stop while engine is running. But if you turn it off it may not start up again. It will never shut off while driving either.
I looked at the ECT sensors and those all appear to be reporting the correct temperature when warm.
During one of these early episodes I jumped load side of the PGM fuel pump relay and the fuel pump turned on and was able to get the car home.
Also during the crank but no start episodes. I am getting voltage from the PCM which is from A11 of the PCM to the coil side of the fuel pump relay which suggest the immobilizer unit is working.
I have gotten around the problem for now by wiring a toggle switch with a relay on it so the kid can get home. The use of the switch has now been needed every single day for the past week so the problem is getting more repeatable. After the problem happens it can resolve it self in 30 minutes or for sure after 4 hours.
I also cleaned all the grounds 4 or 5 in the engine compartment and and the ground to the block and transmission, a ground by the fuse panel by the drivers left leg and checked the ground to ground voltages and they are all fine.
The immobilizer key in dash shows the correct number of flashes as key is inserted and removed and scan tool confirms it.
I am just thinking of leaving switch but am worried if an accident happened fuel pump would continue to run and could cause a hazardous condition.
Any Ideas would be much appreciated. I would much rather it quit so I could track the issue easier rather then it being intermittent as I only get a short window to trouble shoot. Of course when I am ready to trouble shoot it will not act up.
Any ideas what else I could chase down?
Thanks in Advance!
I am leaning toward an intermittent PCM but not sure.
I have read around the forums that the intermittent crank(turns over) but no start is normally caused by relays. In my case I believe it is not the relays as it was one of the first things I eplaced. All the relays related to the PCM and fuel pump it with the new OEM Denso relays that are made in Japan. But I still encounter the problem.
I have a prosumer scan tool indicates no codes and graphing PIDS for all sensors look normal. When the vehicle it is acting up I have tried the fuel pump actuation test from the scan tool and the scan tool reports the fuel pump is running but in reality it is not.
The crank but no start condition NEVER occurs first thing in the morning. Van always starts instantly in the morning, but after the first drive, the condition can randomly happen through out the day. If you wait several hours it will it will resolve itself. It will never just stop while engine is running. But if you turn it off it may not start up again. It will never shut off while driving either.
I looked at the ECT sensors and those all appear to be reporting the correct temperature when warm.
During one of these early episodes I jumped load side of the PGM fuel pump relay and the fuel pump turned on and was able to get the car home.
Also during the crank but no start episodes. I am getting voltage from the PCM which is from A11 of the PCM to the coil side of the fuel pump relay which suggest the immobilizer unit is working.
I have gotten around the problem for now by wiring a toggle switch with a relay on it so the kid can get home. The use of the switch has now been needed every single day for the past week so the problem is getting more repeatable. After the problem happens it can resolve it self in 30 minutes or for sure after 4 hours.
I also cleaned all the grounds 4 or 5 in the engine compartment and and the ground to the block and transmission, a ground by the fuse panel by the drivers left leg and checked the ground to ground voltages and they are all fine.
The immobilizer key in dash shows the correct number of flashes as key is inserted and removed and scan tool confirms it.
I am just thinking of leaving switch but am worried if an accident happened fuel pump would continue to run and could cause a hazardous condition.
Any Ideas would be much appreciated. I would much rather it quit so I could track the issue easier rather then it being intermittent as I only get a short window to trouble shoot. Of course when I am ready to trouble shoot it will not act up.
Any ideas what else I could chase down?
Thanks in Advance!