Honda Valve Adjustment tool and Torque?

[Sequoiasoon]

Once it warms a bit and I have a couple days I want to do the valve cover gasket on my '17 Accord 2.4L Earth Dreams. I've never done the valve adjustment but not worried about my skills for it. I do need to get the tool and some new feeler gauges.

Which one of these tools is more recommended? What is recommended way to make sure I torque the nuts afterward? I know I need to hold the slotted part with screwdriver but my torque wrenches are all use with a socket versions. I'm more worried about leaving them loose or making too tight and snapping something. I'm not loving my just tight enough by feel and experience methods lately so have been using my torque wrenches accordingly.

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[RyanY]

I have the Powerbuilt tool and it worked fine for the front bank of my Odyssey V6. It was a PITA for the rear because the inner screwdriver is loose in the outer "nut" and it's hard to keep it aligned when you can't see it. It should be fine for a 4 cyl where you won't need to work blind. But if I ever do a V6 again I will buy a better brand (snap-on, blue point, or similar).

Edit: I forgot to add that I just tightened the jam nut by hand, then used a regular torque wrench with socket to finish. Of course, it's a good idea to recheck the gap afterward to make sure it is still in spec.

 

[Nukeman7]

I am not familiar with the black tool in the left picture, but have had the Powerbuilt tool with the red handle for a few years. If you haven't performed a valve adjustment on a Honda before, understand that there is a short learning curve involved with the process. While not difficult, you will need to acquire the "feel" for how tight the screw adjuster needs to be on the feeler gauge. In fact, you will probably want to go back and readjust a couple of the first few valves you set in the process while learning the "feel". While the Powerbuilt tool might be useful for you, I do not prefer to use it in lieu of a good screwdriver and a simple box end wrench. I find it more difficult to get the tension correct when using the Power built tool as it seems to have a bit more flex than using the box end wrench. With Honda valves, my experience is that the gap changes a bit when tensioning the lock nut, sometimes making the clearance too tight to pull out the feeler gauge. I suggest getting a set of the angled feeler gauges which individually attach to a sturdy handle instead of a combined set that are attached together with a pivot point. I prefer the CTA Tools A308 feeler gauges shown below.

 

[JRay’07]

It looks like the first version you have pictured would allow you to use a torque wrench on the tool itself (if you have an open-end adapter of the correct size). The version on the right does not allow for this and you will have to torque the counter nut by conventional means after you perform your adjustments. The force that is applied to the counter nut will overwhelm your ability to hold the center slotted section with a screwdriver so you must check your clearances again after tightening.

 

[Dave Sherman]

Ditto on the angled feeler gauges. I did a valve adjustment on a 2.4, and you'll have to bend the blade if you don't. I recall the torque is not very high. After I torqued the first one I just snugged up the other one.

 

[The Critic]

For the 4-cyl models you'll have no issues with the Powerbuilt tool.

On the V6 ones, the tool can be a bit too long. Having the shorter, official Honda tool could be handy, but a stubby screwdriver and box-end wrench will work too.

I have never torqued the jam nuts and I don't see a reason to. Just use common sense and tighten them to a reasonable state.

 

[Timmastertech]

Ive always just done Honda valve adjustments with a box wrench and screwdriver then torqued the nuts with a regular socket and inch pounds torque wrench

 

[porterdog]

Multiple Hondas, over years, both two and four wheel; one air cooled 911 also.
Never any special tools, screwdriver and a little box and wrench. Using the box end wrench can help to avoid over torquing because in that size generally they're pretty short.

 

[Chester11]

Probably obvious, but new valve cover gasket when finished. My mechanic tried to reuse the old one, which failed.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Probably obvious, but new valve cover gasket when finished. My mechanic tried to reuse the old one, which failed.

New valve cover gasket is actually primary reason. Getting more weeping along the edge. The valve adjustment is because I'm at 114k and will be in there anyway. Just because I'm there I might also replace the VTEC spring. I still get a very random quick sound at start up. Chain tensioner was replaced by dealer while under powertrain warranty, not that it can't go bad again or chain stretch some.

 

[spackard]

The stubby flat blade screwdriver should at least have a black oxide tip, or the metal should be entirely black oxide. A polished tip will slip all over the place.

 

[TimeFlies]

I have done many, never used more than a box end wrench, and screwdriver.