Honda P/S pump o-rings

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Apr 25, 2017
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Location
Ohio
Co-worker has an '03 Accord V6 that needs a new o-ring or o-rings in the P/S pump lines. The reservoir cracked and we got it replaced but while venting the reservoir/system, I noticed it's bubbling inside excessively. Pretty common on these anyway, plus I've heard the telltale whining noise when he leaves. While getting the reservoir, I got mixed up and told him to make sure it comes with o-rings or buy them, forgetting that these are in the pump, not the reservoir, but he still got them. It comes with (2) and I wasn't certain if both are used or if it's a universal "kit" and you only use one.

I confirmed there's an o-ring where the hose on the right (with the rectangular box) is. That clamp is holding a short plastic adapter that's held in place by a single fastener and the "nipple" has the o-ring. I'm 86% certain there's an o-ring where the circle and arrow is as well. Is that correct ? Picture is from the internet - not his car - but it's the same 3.0L V6.

1725577258081.jpg
 
Yes, it's a common failure of the suction side o ring causing the problem.
The new updated one is orange in color.
I've also seen a couple (very rare) front pump seals cause this same problem.
There was also a bulletin on Odyssey's reservoir casing this - but old models. The filter is in the reservoir, and may be restricted.
 
^^^^This is correct. The squeal-like noise is air leakage into the suction nipple due to hardening/shrinkage of the o-ring. I have replaced that o-ring on three different V-6 and two I-4 Hondas. I would not change the o-ring on the high pressure side unless the noise remains after replacing the suction side o-ring. It is such a common failure, the Dorman kit is available OTC at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and O'Reilly's.

 
I would not change the o-ring on the high pressure side unless the noise remains after replacing the suction side o-ring.
We'll do the suction side and hope for the best. Like @mk378 said too, wouldn't fluid be being forced out of the 2-bolt fitting connection ? It's not leaking there.
 
Something that is poorly documented is the procedure for filling an empty PS system after a repair.
If it's not done properly it will result in similar symptoms.
The reservoir will not hold the full quantity the system requires.
When the reservoir is emptied during the fill, air is sucked into the system, the fluid will foam, and it takes time for the fluid to release the trapped air/foam. Air or foam that's trapped in the lines, or rack, sometimes takes a long time to be released.
To avoid this problem.
1. Fill the reservoir.
2. Start the engine, then turn it off as soon as it fires.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2, until the reservoir remains near full.
After the fluid remains near full, turn the wheel lock, to lock, a few times, then top it to the proper level.
 
FWIW, we filled it to the MAX line and started it. Turned the steering wheel lock to lock and it did drop to the MIN line or so. Filled it back to the MAX line, restarted it and kept turning the steering wheel and it remained at MAX.
 
Replaced the suction-side o-ring this morning and it sounds better. Perfect or silent ? Nope, but that's not the goal at this point either.... He mentioned replacing the other and I said "everyone said leave it alone since it's not leaking" and he was fine with that.

We ran it and he cranked the steering wheel and while cranking the wheels, there are pretty much NO bubbles. When the wheels are straight and not being turned, there are very minimal bubbles. Is this normal ? Just asking for my own curiosity / learning. I'm not going more in-depth with this nor is very interested either. He even realizes the pump could be damaged from running very low when the reservoir cracked and leaked.
 
The cars that I’ve serviced have you bleed the system after component replacement (like a new pump, or an o-ring in your case) by raising the front wheels, and going lock to lock on the steering about 20 times. Top up as necessary.

This purges the air in the system under low pressure.

Then you fire up the engine, move the wheels and do a final fluid level check.

The problem with starting the engine up, is that you immediately send high-pressure fluid into the system, where it’s going to mix with air, and worse, you run the risk of the pump sucking the reservoir dry. in general, hydraulic pumps need the hydraulic fluid to keep them cool and lubricated.

If a hydraulic pump sucks air in an airplane, that pump is dead, and usually fills the system with debris as a result.

The hydraulic suspension pumps on both of my Mercedes have very specific bleed instructions.

The power steering pumps have very specific instructions, as described above - move the wheels with engine off, then check level and start engine.

I can’t help but wonder if the noise you are hearing now, and the bubbles you’re seeing, are the result of entrained air as a consequence of the bleed method.
 
Replaced the suction-side o-ring this morning and it sounds better. Perfect or silent ? Nope, but that's not the goal at this point either.... He mentioned replacing the other and I said "everyone said leave it alone since it's not leaking" and he was fine with that.

We ran it and he cranked the steering wheel and while cranking the wheels, there are pretty much NO bubbles. When the wheels are straight and not being turned, there are very minimal bubbles. Is this normal ? Just asking for my own curiosity / learning. I'm not going more in-depth with this nor is very interested either. He even realizes the pump could be damaged from running very low when the reservoir cracked and leaked.
If it's working well I think you've got it done. It's not going to be silent, but volume shouldn't be so loud you can hear it sitting inside with the windows up.
Moving the wheels lock to lock with the engine off can push fluid out of the reservoir. It's common to have some fluid come out when pushing a tow-in car into a work bay, that's non running. Doesn't hurt anything, just a mess, and needs topping off.
 
Dude, I fixed this years ago with O-rings that comes in a variety pack of O-rings for A/C repairs. That noise you're talking about eventually went away.
 
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