Honda Odyssey Coolant?

[05Blazer]

I will be flushing out the radiatior & cooling system soon before the hot & humid Chicago summer comes. The van will soon be hitting 75k miles. What is the best coolant to use for replacement with regards to both price and compatibility with any leftover oem coolant.

thanks

 

[Jim 5]

I hate to say it, but I'd probably go with OEM. Honda recommends against dexcool/dexclones. Longlife is helpful.

It's really expensive though. Thankfully, you don't have to do it often.

If you can't bear the thought of going with the OEM stuff, then if it were me I'd probably go for G-05.

 

[BuickGN]

OEM for sure....

I changed it out in the TL on it's second summer and you would be surprised at how much sand came out. I'm glad I didn't run it the full length of time.

 

[bepperb]

Either OEM or you'll have to do a complete flush with distilled water to go with something else. Peak Global Lifetime seems to work pretty well in Hondas, but nothing will mix with OEM except OEM.

Keep in mind you're due for a timing belt change at 105,000 which should include a water pump and new coolant.

 

[Pablo]

Is the dealer "OEM" stuff the same as factory fill? I don't know - I will say that factory fill coolant seems to be good stuff, but sometimes with fluids, "OEM" bottled does not equal factory fill.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Is the dealer "OEM" stuff the same as factory fill? I don't know - I will say that factory fill coolant seems to be good stuff, but sometimes with fluids, "OEM" bottled does not equal factory fill.


Honda factory fill coolant is very good, that why they recommend 10yr/100k miles for factory fill. Coolant type II at dealer has change interval of only 5yr/50k miles.

 

[Pablo]

Thanks - GREAT information!

 

[MaximaGuy]

OEM. Suck up and pay arm and leg for the stuff from stealership.

There is a reason why owners manual does not give you a choice in the coolants that go with the engine (not just Honda across the board, OTC means massive pain down the lane).... I know and have been thro it.

Good luck.

 

[05Blazer]

should I really wait another 30k miles to have this done with the extreme variances in the Chicago weather? The coolant looks kinda old & dirty, however like every other Joe out there, Im hurting for money so I dont want spend it carelessly.
thanks

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
should I really wait another 30k miles to have this done with the extreme variances in the Chicago weather? The coolant looks kinda old & dirty, however like every other Joe out there, Im hurting for money so I dont want spend it carelessly.
thanks

There's no reason to change it.

Honda vehicles are not known for cooling system problems. Wait until the 105k service and have the coolant replaced when the water pump is changed. While the coolant is drained, also have the radiator hoses and thermostat replaced.

 

[Mr Nice]

BuickGN,
How did sand get in your radiator ?

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
BuickGN,
How did sand get in your radiator ?

I'm guessing from the sand-casting of the engine block when it was poured.

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Is the dealer "OEM" stuff the same as factory fill? I don't know - I will say that factory fill coolant seems to be good stuff, but sometimes with fluids, "OEM" bottled does not equal factory fill.


Geez,

I hope so, my dad just paid $24 for a gallon of premixed honda coolant for his 09 Odyssey. Heck, there was a time in university when the whiskey I bought cost less than that.

 

[gogozy]

Originally Posted By: Jim 5
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
BuickGN,
How did sand get in your radiator ?

I'm guessing from the sand-casting of the engine block when it was poured.

i just drain and fill my radiator, i was very surprise to see sand at the bottom of the bucket.. i like to know where the sand come from as well. doesn't they cause damage in the system?
i also use Honda fluid, $20 for 3.78L.

 

[BuickGN]

Pretty sure the sand comes from the block and head castings. Before my drain and fill of the radiator, the cap had never been off the radiator or overflow tank.

I've done two drain and refills of the radiator since I bought it and the second one had very little sand in it. The first one would surprise a lot of people.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Is the dealer "OEM" stuff the same as factory fill? I don't know - I will say that factory fill coolant seems to be good stuff, but sometimes with fluids, "OEM" bottled does not equal factory fill.


Honda factory fill coolant is very good, that why they recommend 10yr/100k miles for factory fill. Coolant type II at dealer has change interval of only 5yr/50k miles.


Pablo, I don't think that the change from 10 year interval to 5 year interval after changing the fluid proves that the dealer OEM stuff is different than the factory fill.

I have seen several vehicles/equipment (John Deere comes to mind) that reduce the change interval after the initial factory fill is taken out.

It's my guess that they do this because they cannot guarantee the quality of water that people use to flush and refill the system with. Just a wild guess.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself

Pablo, I don't think that the change from 10 year interval to 5 year interval after changing the fluid proves that the dealer OEM stuff is different than the factory fill.

I have seen several vehicles/equipment (John Deere comes to mind) that reduce the change interval after the initial factory fill is taken out.

It's my guess that they do this because they cannot guarantee the quality of water that people use to flush and refill the system with. Just a wild guess.

Type II comes premixed, so water quality is not the issue.

I think the main reason why the service interval is reduced is because draining the radiator and engine block only removes 2/3 of the old coolant.