Honda mower HRR216 - rear wheels

[Chester11]

Folks:

I'm having an issue where the rear wheels are locking up. (Common problem supposedly).

I replaced the rear wheel mounts and sanded the rust off the axle. Put everything back together, and am still having the same problem.

I'm going to take it apart and re-lube everything. Can anyone recommend a spray lube? (I used silicone paste because the parts are rubber and some red valvoline lube on the gears.)

 

[Rand]

Check that the bushings turn on the shaft freely if not you need to fix that. (if this is the mower I think it is)

 

[DuckRyder]

I would replace the pinion gears, ratchet keys and ratchet springs it they do not look perfect…

What are the letters / numbers after HRR216?

 

[jeepman3071]

I would replace the pinion gears, ratchet keys and ratchet springs it they do not look perfect…

What are the letters / numbers after HRR216?

+1

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I would replace the pinion gears, ratchet keys and ratchet springs it they do not look perfect…

What are the letters / numbers after HRR216?

The ratchet keys and springs are likely the issue. Replace or clean and lube. Also make sure to put the gears back on in the direction you took them off.

 

[JTK]

Assuming the wheels themselves will free-wheel when not in self propel mode and ratchet keys on the axle shaft make the normal rhythmic clickedy noise when pushing the mower along w/ engine off, this points to something in the drive system IMO.

Like you say, first thing I would look at are those axle shaft bushings. Will the drive axle spin freely with no squeaks, noises or binding?

Do the gears look good that are molded onto the wheels?

I don't recall any springs other than maybe a series of wavy and regular washers and snap rings on the drive axle.

 

[Chester11]

I would replace the pinion gears, ratchet keys and ratchet springs it they do not look perfect…

What are the letters / numbers after HRR216?

VKA I think...I'll confirm. (When I checked it was not covered by the repair bulletin)

The mounting brackets had new bushings. The old bushings were pretty worn.

The gears, keys and springs looked new - just a bit gunked up and dirty. The wheels click like they should - so I think I got it back together correctly.
It worked well for a few mows after the repair, and now the wheels won't roll backward after a mowing a few rows. (Almost as if the bushings get warm and seize on the axle). It takes a lot more "power" on the self propel to walk at the same speed.

 

[carviewsonic]

I have to use WD 40 a couple of times per season on the axle bushings on my Honda mower, or it won't roll backwards. Not one of Honda's better designs. I have a self propelled 30 yr old mower which was budget priced when new, and it rolls backwards just fine.

 

[Ctopher]

I have to use WD 40 a couple of times per season on the axle bushings on my Honda mower, or it won't roll backwards. Not one of Honda's better designs. I have a self propelled 30 yr old mower which was budget priced when new, and it rolls backwards just fine.

You realize wd40 isn’t a lubricant, right? Maybe disassemble, clean and grease it properly and the wheels will roll better.

CTopher

 

[carviewsonic]

You realize wd40 isn’t a lubricant, right? Maybe disassemble, clean and grease it properly and the wheels will roll better.

CTopher

My thinking is that the wd40 cleans the dirt etc. from the bushings, and grease would attract dirt. I have graphite dry lube I'm going to try next.

 

[Fordiesel69]

HRR216 might be the style that tightens the belt for more speed, and when you need a lower speed it just slips the belt more. In any case reach up inside and take the belt off the tranny pulley and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away then the belt is not properly "un tensioning" and you need to find out why.

This advise DOES NOT apply if you have the tranny that is hydrostatic, or the tranny that keeps constant belt tension at all times. This only applies to the trannys that tension and loosen the belt to change the ground speed,