Honda Automatic Transmission Drain/Fill Procedure

[barlowc]

My wife's 2007 Saturn Vue is equipped with the Honda L66 3.5-liter V6 engine and associated 5-speed automatic transmission. I'm planning to do the transmission fluid soon, following the "drain/fill x 3" procedure. A few questions for anyone familiar with Honda transmissions and the procedure:

1) As a general rule of thumb, is it OK to fill through the dipstick tube? I thought I read that somewhere and it seems like it would simplify things just a bit. I wouldn't have to remove the air duct to get to the fill hole.

2) My local Saturn dealer (which is still open for the time being) sells the ATF-Z1 for $6.20/quart. My local Honda dealer sells it for $6.88/quart. Is that about the best I'm going to do or is there someplace cheaper to buy it?

3) When folks do the drain/fill x 3 procedure, are all those back-to-back, or do you do it one week, drive it for the week, do it again the next weekend, etc?

4) If each fill is 4.5 quarts, then it seems I'll need to buy 13.5 (i.e. 14) quarts, right? I only ask because I read someplace someone saying just to grab a case.

 

[cwing6]

1.) Yes. I have only done it this way.
2.) Bernardi Honda sells Honda fluids, etc. online. I think the ATF is $5.XX, but with shipping, 6.20 is probably a better deal.
3.) I do this back-to-back, with about 15 minutes driving in between each drain, re-fill.
4.) Sorry, I just don't recall the exact amount, but I thought it was 3.5 quarts each time. Your owners manual should have the exact amount.

 

[shrooms]

1. Fill where the dipstick is.

2. Try ebay or Amazon.

3. Take it for a little drive and drain. IMO, drain and fill once.

4. Again, if that's what you want to do, then yes. I just drain and fill once.

 

[pbm]

I have a Honda (Accord) and I just D&R it once every 15 or 20K. I know that Honda recommends 3 or 4 D&R's in lieu of a power flush but if D&R'd annually your transmission should always have fresh additives. I would only do 3 D&R's if the transmission had been abused or never changed for 80 or 90K. I think its wasteful otherwise.

 

[Sayjac]

1.Yes. Dipstick tube works fine. Suggestion, leave dipstick in, while removing the drain plug and for a while. Fluid won't go all over the place as it drains.

2.$6.20 sounds darn good to me. Last time I called and the least expensive Honda dealer in the area and the lowest I could get was ~$7.50. Matched by closest local dealer who was higher.

3. I've only done drain and refill, but as I read the OM repeat procedure, it's refill, run/drive a bit then drain and refill again. IMO, waiting is not the preferred Honda owners manual procedure.

$. Assuming your specs are right for your car, I'd buy at least 12. You should have a good idea how much you need after the first drain. You can use an old milk jug that you've put measuring lines on to drain into. If it's not to far you can go back to get what you need, or get the 14 if it's a trip.

 

[ajchien]

1. Yes, Ive filled thru dipstick too.
2. I think you may find the prices online cheaper, but adding shipping, and online order becomes more expensive.
3. Like user pbm, I do a single drain and fill every 30k, rather than a 3x "flush" at 90k.
4. As #3.

 

[mez]

Not sure its the same engine as my 2006 3.5 liter V6 engine Honda Ridgeline but if it is, there is a transmission refill plug near the rear driverside. I think it's below the power steering fluid. The nut is 7/8". I just drained and refilled with about 4 qts of Maxlife ATF this past weekend. Easier that changing the oil.

 

[barlowc]

Your Ridgeline probably has the J35A9 and my Vue's L66 is the J35A3. Close, but not exact.

The Vue's fill hole is also located rear driver's-side, but it's under the air intake duct that wraps around. Click here to see a picture.

I think I'll have to remove that duct to get to the fill hole, so filling through the dipstick tube might be easier.

How's the Maxlife ATF feeling? I know that it's Honda Z-1 compatible, but I've ready a number of things where folks (based on experience) have said to use nothing but genuine Z-1.

 

[BuickGN]

You can fill it through the dipstick hole but if it's anything like the TL, it will take a while.

Ditch the Z1, it will be the best thing you can do for your transmission and your wallet. The claims of having to run Z1 are completely bogus. I'm surprised these myths are still around. Run whatever you want.

I've run Amsoil ATF, ATD, Redline D4, and now Redline racing Type-F. 90,000 miles later it shifts better than it did brand new with Z1. I know of others that run Mobil 1, Max Life, and regular old Dex III.

You don't need to drive it for 15 minutes. All you have to do is hit every gear including reverse and torque convertor lockup and then drain it.

If you're lazy like me you can even drain and fill, start it up, put it in drive for 2 minutes, hit second and reverse, and drain and fill again. You're still getting the torque convertor fluid to mix with the fluid in the pan. The rest of the stuff left in the clutch packs is a very small percent.

 

[barlowc]

Really... ditch the Z1!? The service information guide that outlines the drain/fill procedure has the following note in red font: "Do not use ATF (P/N 21005966 or P/N 21019223). These fluids are not compatible with this transmission." It then goes on to say "For FWD vehicles, add approximately 4.5 Liters (4.8 Qt) of Saturn ATF-Z 1 fluid (P/N 22717466) through the transmission fill plug."

I'm not one to normally "drink the cool-aid", but with what I've read elsewhere, combined with very clear/deliberate instructions to use Z1 fluid only, I'm a little scared/nervous about using anything else. Especially while the powertrain is under GM warranty for another 2-years.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
Really... ditch the Z1!? The service information guide that outlines the drain/fill procedure has the following note in red font: "Do not use ATF (P/N 21005966 or P/N 21019223). These fluids are not compatible with this transmission." It then goes on to say "For FWD vehicles, add approximately 4.5 Liters (4.8 Qt) of Saturn ATF-Z 1 fluid (P/N 22717466) through the transmission fill plug."

I'm not one to normally "drink the cool-aid", but with what I've read elsewhere, combined with very clear/deliberate instructions to use Z1 fluid only, I'm a little scared/nervous about using anything else. Especially while the powertrain is under GM warranty for another 2-years.


Use it if it makes you feel better. I just wanted to stress that there's absolutely nothing wrong with going aftermarket as far as longevity is concerned. In fact it should live a longer life without the ultra soft shifts of the Z1.

Between myself and others, we have more than enough miles to safely say it's just the manufacturer trying to make a little extra money. We've purchased SAE white papers and read extensively on this subject and the general conclusion is people are way too conservative when it comes to trying new AT fluids. Who would've though a full racing fluid would work just fine in a Honda AT.

 

[mez]

I notice no difference in shifting using Maxlife ATF in the Ridgeline.

 

[rszappa1]

I use Redlind D4 in my 2007 Accord with no problems and the transmission whine has gone away...

 

[gtoracer]

I have been using Mobil 1 ATF in Honda products for the last 10 years and had no trouble.

 

[silverrat]

A quicker way to fill the transmission is to go from the 17mm fill plug at the top of the transmission on the driver side. Use a extra long extension with preferably a 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar. It will make transmission filling way easier.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: silverrat
A quicker way to fill the transmission is to go from the 17mm fill plug at the top of the transmission on the driver side. Use a extra long extension with preferably a 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar. It will make transmission filling way easier.


X2 on the breaker bar. The first time is not easy. I just barely snug mine when I put it back in and I swear it tightens itself over the course of the change interval but not as bad as the first time.

 

[barlowc]

Originally Posted By: silverrat
A quicker way to fill the transmission is to go from the 17mm fill plug at the top of the transmission on the driver side. Use a extra long extension with preferably a 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar. It will make transmission filling way easier.


How much quicker/easier is it really? Getting to the fill hole in my Saturn Vue sounds like a pain (based on what I've read elsewhere) since I have to remove the air duct. I'm planning to do the drain/fill three times as recommended. Since between each I'll need to start the engine and run the vehicle a little bit, I don't think I want to do that without the air duct being in place, so I'll have to remove/reinstall it three times. Even if it's a little slower, filling via the dipstick tube seems like it'll be easier. But I say all of this without knowing because I've never done it before, so I do appreciate all the input/feedback. Thanks!

 

[silverrat]

You dont have to remove the air duct if you have a long enough extension. You will also need a funnel with a long tube.

 

[barlowc]

Originally Posted By: silverrat
You dont have to remove the air duct if you have a long enough extension. You will also need a funnel with a long tube.


About how long is long?

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: silverrat
You dont have to remove the air duct if you have a long enough extension. You will also need a funnel with a long tube.


About how long is long?


I cut the bottom off a gear oil bottle, and glue some fuel hose to the end of the nipple to desired length.

For 'glue' I use Permatex "form a gasket" as oil/gas wont break it down.