In my travels I did find Goodman is replaced, not repaired. I don't know if that's the entry level, or all. At any rate, it is as the other poster stated, contractor grade. For it to have lasted 19 years, is a win for you. But I wouldn't pay for it as a replacement to an existing system. My buddy's lasted 7 years and he got a quote for $42k to replace the system (2 condensers). Yes that's high but it's something most of us would rather not go through often--I'd rather buy a Corvette ZR1 at a discount and haggle, than to try to get hvac. Probably buying a diamond engagement ring is also preferable
Home HVAC filters
- Thread starter dishdude
- Start date
lol
I use 16"x25"x2" MERV 8 pleated filters in my 2 ton central system. For years I could not get 2" filters from the local retail stores in Southern California so I ordered my filters from FILTERBUY. Very nice company but 3 each filters with shipping costs $40.28 total or $13.43 per filter. I can buy a 16"x25"x"2 MERV 8 special order from Home Depot and have it shipped to my favorite store for only $7.75 per filter. Marriott Residence Inn in my town uses Filterbuy. My guess is they buy multiple cases so cost is lower than let's say the air conditioning parts houses.
Filterbuy has a MERV vs. FPR (Home Depot brand) vs. MPR (Filtrete 3m brand) conversion chart here: https://filterbuy.com/resources/air...r-ratings/#comparing-merv-mpr-and-fpr-ratings
Most of the pleated filters on the shelf seem to be MERV 8. I've assumed MERV 8 is the 'standard" filter.
Filterbuy has a MERV vs. FPR (Home Depot brand) vs. MPR (Filtrete 3m brand) conversion chart here: https://filterbuy.com/resources/air...r-ratings/#comparing-merv-mpr-and-fpr-ratings
Most of the pleated filters on the shelf seem to be MERV 8. I've assumed MERV 8 is the 'standard" filter.
I've got Filtrete (3m) 1500/1800 1" filters for both units on a 5 wk changing cycle. No issues from filters per my every 6 month PM check up from my HVAC guy. Seeing the volume of hair, etc these things catch is amazing IMO. I would NOT recommend leaving these "to get more efficient" like your car air filter given the negative pressure needed to get good air flow.
Just did my change with a 4” 3 M Filtrete filter.
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
Have a contract to change the big OEM filter in attic (quarterly) and use one Air-X charcoal pleated plus one cheap-o-flow in lower positions (monthly)
I go 6-7 months on the cheap fiberglass filters and they look almost new when I change them. I’ve done the same with the lower MERV pleated filters and had the same results. The equipment is 11 years old and never been serviced and looks clean when I’ve poked around in there.
I have 3 systems in the main house and my thermostat tells me how much run time they get, which is between 50 and 200 hours a month per unit. I’m curious how often a single unit runs in a 1,500-2,000 SF house.
We very rarely open our windows, have 3 kids and a dog but do have the house cleaned weekly and have a central vac so it’s never dusty.
I have 3 systems in the main house and my thermostat tells me how much run time they get, which is between 50 and 200 hours a month per unit. I’m curious how often a single unit runs in a 1,500-2,000 SF house.
We very rarely open our windows, have 3 kids and a dog but do have the house cleaned weekly and have a central vac so it’s never dusty.
What do you mean a "HEPA stack" ?
Which/whose merv 18 filter are you using and what are its dimensions?
- Joined
- May 16, 2022
- Messages
- 829
I use the least expense pleated ( what I call a real filter ) from Home depot, its the green box one and about $4-5 a filter says replace every 3 months. Never had a issue but its DIRTY after 3 months but hold it up to the sun and looks safe to me.
The wife purchased the wrong filter recently the old school fiber glass spun thats labeled a 30 day filter.
always using the 90 day pleated filters I forgot to change that 30 day filter and to my big surprise after 3 months it was so clean it looked as if it was new?
So I truly question how much dirt passed right through?
I have always heard about restriction and I did have a renter collapse my return air box from NOT changing the pleated filter that was in who knows how long? a year? perhaps? I don't use those $20+ pleated filters that filters everything but I see no reason the $5 version as long at you change it will hurt?
You can feel the amount of pull or suction it has or don't have if you remove it when dirty with the system on and pulling air, its not much suction at my house...
The wife purchased the wrong filter recently the old school fiber glass spun thats labeled a 30 day filter.
always using the 90 day pleated filters I forgot to change that 30 day filter and to my big surprise after 3 months it was so clean it looked as if it was new?
So I truly question how much dirt passed right through?
I have always heard about restriction and I did have a renter collapse my return air box from NOT changing the pleated filter that was in who knows how long? a year? perhaps? I don't use those $20+ pleated filters that filters everything but I see no reason the $5 version as long at you change it will hurt?
You can feel the amount of pull or suction it has or don't have if you remove it when dirty with the system on and pulling air, its not much suction at my house...
Having worked in HVAC production, test, QC - know that most components are produced by 3rd party companies (motors, switches, sensors, fan blades...). The Brand manufacturer is primarily a sheet metal operation (but includes electronics & heat exchangers).
One good thing (for some) about Goodman is availability & pricing of parts. You can buy parts quit easily and relatively affordably. Getting parts for some brands, depending on what part, can be practically impossible. Trane motors are notorious for this. Parts houses usually won't sell to the general public.
I installed a Goodman system a couple of years ago and picked up an igniter, flame sensor, pressure switches, and capacitor for about $125. Thoseare simple repairs for someone handy. If you aren't then my point is null.
Fun fact, you can actually measure difference in current on the blower motor due to filter restriction. I measured ~100 watts difference on my system between restrictive and non-restrictive filters. What's that come out to annually on your electric bill? I figured it was enough to justify a better filter solution.
I was using a plastic tube filled with water to measure differences in filter restriction, until...
I installed a $25 ebay dwyer magnahelic differential air pressure gauge on my air handler to measure/observe head across the handler...in attempts to optimize this airflow vs filtration problem. I can also see when a toddler has closed vents, confusing them with play toys. Air handler is in the basement workshop, so it's easy to observe on occasion.
My filter is installed in the return register. The 18x24x1 size was probably sufficient in 1969, but not for a modern R-410a heat pump that wants >400 cfm per ton for optimal winter operation. Prior owner of house had an electrostatic/washable unit on there causing occasional trips on high pressure in winter. Beyond this, just aren't many 18x24 options available at hardware stores, walmart, etc.
I really wanted to do better than the see-through fiberglass units, but anything else was choking the system beyond acceptable, even with brand new filters. I tried a bunch of "filter buy" models on amazon. At >400 fpm on a 1" pleated filter, you just don't stand a chance. The 2" and 4" filterbuy units had pretty poor pleat separators, so the pleats would collapse and defeats the purpose of the additional area.
I ended up cutting out the register lip and using some wood strips to adapt the return for 4" deep pleated filters. The extra depth provides additional surface area, which cuts air velocity...thus reducing pressure differential across the filter. I've found the Glasfloss units are the best ones I can conveniently buy. I had good performance with their ZL Merv-10 model but recently stepped up to their MR-11 model, which has additional pleat density to offset the tighter media. They even make a 6" deep model in my size but availability is scarce.
For either the ZL or ML-11 I'm measuring right about 0.2 inches of water across the filter when new, and minimal increase over time. I think my air handler is rated 1" WC max (total, including ductwork) but <0.5" recommended. My ductwork is ~0.2" so that leaves about 0.3" for the filter. I accidently left the last one in there for 18 months and didn't exceed 0.5" total.
Bigger filters for the win, multiple big filters paralleled being even better. Deeper filters when bigger filters aren't an option.
https://www.glasfloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/06-PLEATED-BROCHURE-100119c.pdf
The glasfloss elements can be had cheaply if you're a commercial outfit and ordering them in quantity. I'm getting a year + out of them with minimal measured loading, depsite their very dirty appearance at the end of that period. I'm only ordering them 2-3 at a time on amazon but it's still a good deal considering the longer intervals I'm getting away with. About $20 per filter, so no more than $20 a year.
Someday when the house gets a heat pump replacement I'll ask about a larger filter rack at the entrance of the unit and accomplish the same, but probably still need a blue fiberglass cheapie to keep the return duct clean.
I was using a plastic tube filled with water to measure differences in filter restriction, until...
I installed a $25 ebay dwyer magnahelic differential air pressure gauge on my air handler to measure/observe head across the handler...in attempts to optimize this airflow vs filtration problem. I can also see when a toddler has closed vents, confusing them with play toys. Air handler is in the basement workshop, so it's easy to observe on occasion.
My filter is installed in the return register. The 18x24x1 size was probably sufficient in 1969, but not for a modern R-410a heat pump that wants >400 cfm per ton for optimal winter operation. Prior owner of house had an electrostatic/washable unit on there causing occasional trips on high pressure in winter. Beyond this, just aren't many 18x24 options available at hardware stores, walmart, etc.
I really wanted to do better than the see-through fiberglass units, but anything else was choking the system beyond acceptable, even with brand new filters. I tried a bunch of "filter buy" models on amazon. At >400 fpm on a 1" pleated filter, you just don't stand a chance. The 2" and 4" filterbuy units had pretty poor pleat separators, so the pleats would collapse and defeats the purpose of the additional area.
I ended up cutting out the register lip and using some wood strips to adapt the return for 4" deep pleated filters. The extra depth provides additional surface area, which cuts air velocity...thus reducing pressure differential across the filter. I've found the Glasfloss units are the best ones I can conveniently buy. I had good performance with their ZL Merv-10 model but recently stepped up to their MR-11 model, which has additional pleat density to offset the tighter media. They even make a 6" deep model in my size but availability is scarce.
For either the ZL or ML-11 I'm measuring right about 0.2 inches of water across the filter when new, and minimal increase over time. I think my air handler is rated 1" WC max (total, including ductwork) but <0.5" recommended. My ductwork is ~0.2" so that leaves about 0.3" for the filter. I accidently left the last one in there for 18 months and didn't exceed 0.5" total.
Bigger filters for the win, multiple big filters paralleled being even better. Deeper filters when bigger filters aren't an option.
https://www.glasfloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/06-PLEATED-BROCHURE-100119c.pdf
The glasfloss elements can be had cheaply if you're a commercial outfit and ordering them in quantity. I'm getting a year + out of them with minimal measured loading, depsite their very dirty appearance at the end of that period. I'm only ordering them 2-3 at a time on amazon but it's still a good deal considering the longer intervals I'm getting away with. About $20 per filter, so no more than $20 a year.
Someday when the house gets a heat pump replacement I'll ask about a larger filter rack at the entrance of the unit and accomplish the same, but probably still need a blue fiberglass cheapie to keep the return duct clean.
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I was told by my HVAC installers to buy cheap filters and change them every month during the summer. Not that $$$ filters were bad but too good to pitch every month. Winter I let them go 6-8 weeks, when I think about it. MERV 8
