High Torque/Low RPM.....which oil?

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Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
...so I stick with a synthetic HDEO 5W30 for towing.



signore97....great comments.

Wow I wish I could get my hands on a synthetic HDEO here in Colorado. That would probably be my choice!!!!!




Sorry, I guess I should have specified... The HDEO 5W30 that I use is Amsoil 5W30 Series 3000 HDD. So, technically, it's available everywhere if you want to pay the high admission for it and if you don't mind shipping. Otherwise, I guess the only store-bought HDEO grade would be 10W30.

But honestly, even a full synthetic "high-mileage" 5W30 would do the trick quite nicely. It's nearly as robust as an HDEO, and still meets your OEM recommendation for oil grade and quality. It may also help you to sleep at night knowing you've got good protection for your rig when towing!

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meep, thank you for elaborating on the overdrive question.

To other replies, I get the impression that this vehicle will tow light trailers, not far from 1,000 pounds. I don't think that is heavy enough to warrant a high stress plan for this class of vehicle. You could easily put over 1,000 pounds of payload inside that vehicle, between passengers and cargo. Granted, a trailer adds wind resistance, but he also stated 60mph top speed.
 
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
meep, thank you for elaborating on the overdrive question.

To other replies, I get the impression that this vehicle will tow light trailers, not far from 1,000 pounds. I don't think that is heavy enough to warrant a high stress plan for this class of vehicle. You could easily put over 1,000 pounds of payload inside that vehicle, between passengers and cargo. Granted, a trailer adds wind resistance, but he also stated 60mph top speed.


The 4Runner is usually loaded with gear, 4-6 people, towing 2k lbs and pulling 9-12k foot passes in Colorado..... There is stress on the engine.

I think I have made my decision.....I saw a UOA of GC in a 4Runner and it looked awesome!!!! Syntec 0w30 is probably my choice.
 
Your best choice is to deal with the problem directly. Don't Lug the Engine! Just run in the next highest gear when loaded/towing. Try it. It'll probably be turning only 2100-2300 rpms,in the next highest gear.
 
If you read the Toyota manual I suspect that it says to tow w/ overdrive off for charging efficiency and not to exceed 45mph.

I never really paid attention to either of those. The current toyota automatics seem to be pretty smart. My thoughts follow the 'if the TC stays locked, all is good', but that is only based on my internal logic.

I also believe that modern engine and transmission controls will not allow you to lug the engine. At the lowest speed the TC locks in top gear the engine should have full protection with the recommended oil - and it may not require much pressure.
 
The ford Expedition has been running 20 grade oils for a decade and trailing 9,000 lbs. Modern oils are designed to handle this even up and down hills.

If you are concerned and want to do something extra I would recommend you stay with the 20 grade oil as long as sump temperatures are not excessive. But drop a gear. That will bring more oil to the surfaces and add/provide more cooling.

I reference the following:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/


http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=new_faq_item#faq_haas_articles

aehaas
 
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
The 4Runner is usually loaded with gear, 4-6 people, towing 2k lbs and pulling 9-12k foot passes in Colorado..... There is stress on the engine.

I think I have made my decision.....I saw a UOA of GC in a 4Runner and it looked awesome!!!! Syntec 0w30 is probably my choice.

Those are useful details here, I didn't guess that much load from your initial post. Pulling all that up a long steep climb I'd prefer more rpm too.

I think you're looking at a good choice there with GC.
 
The engine is actually more efficient with a larger throttle opening and lower RPM.
Less pumping losses from having to maintain any vacuum.

I don't think 'lugging' an engine is harmful.
Years ago I read in Car and Driver magazine where a Detroit automotive engineer lugged a test car frequently. The staff at Car and Driver were shocked at his 'poor' driving technique. He replied ," What could go wrong? What's the harm? It won't hurt anything".
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
The engine is actually more efficient with a larger throttle opening and lower RPM.
Less pumping losses from having to maintain any vacuum.

I don't think 'lugging' an engine is harmful.
Years ago I read in Car and Driver magazine where a Detroit automotive engineer lugged a test car frequently. The staff at Car and Driver were shocked at his 'poor' driving technique. He replied ," What could go wrong? What's the harm? It won't hurt anything".



Car and Driver is wrong, a lot can go wrong. Lugging in extreme cases will result in an insufficient oil wedge in the bearings resulting in metal to metal contact particularly when the engine is hot. Make a habit of it and you will dramatically shorten the bearing journal life.

I'm sure Shannow or Doug Hillary could elaborate in better detail on the detrimental aspects of lugging an engine not designed for it.
 
A modern automatic transmission control looks at throttle vs RPM and decides which gear it needs to be in.

I run Mobil HM 10W-30 in my jeep since it sees a lot of low rpm / high torque beach driving. The coolant needle is 10+ degrees hotter while beach running, so I know engine oil temp is getting up there. I ran Havoline 10W-30 up until this year, and it has not had any engine related problems. I wish I could say the same for the rest of the vehicle.
 
Mild lugging is one thing, and pretty much ok, as long as the engine sounds ok, and you can still accelerate a bit in the current gear. Extreme lugging, however (such as low-rpm, WOT and losing speed) can definitely do damage.
 
My last vehicle was a '07 FJ Cruiser with the same engine.

I unfortunately never sent in any used oil for UOA, but that engine was about the last of my worries in that truck. Aside from effects of oil viscosity on VVTi operation, the engine will probably serve you well into the 300k mile range without issue so long as "decent" oil is used and changed at the "right" time.

Mine saw M1 Truck & SUV 5w30, M1 0w-40, and PU 5w-30 with Toyota filters over the course of 1.5yrs and ~43k miles. Engine performance was 100% consistent the entire time regardless of weather, temperature, or usage. The 1GR-FE is a REALLY stout engine.
 
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