What "real" Euro oil would you suggest then? I currently use Liquimoly products and have liked them in my 3 VWs, that's a "real" made-in-Euro oil company. "Euro" to me just means it has the various Euro approvals (or meets/exceeds if not).
High Performance Lubricants Euro oils...whose going to try it?
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The HTHS is 4.023 according to the PDS on the 5W40...that's pretty high!
Zee09
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So, "approvals" actually don't mean anything right?
Zee09
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Do you think it is good marketing to offer longer drain intervals on GDI engines?
That is the biggest fear here on BITOG.
Do you have a specific question about their oil?
I don't market oil. I don't make it either.
I don't have a single GDI, though I have turbos and some of them are fairly high performance. The @High Performance Lubricants Euro oil is tailor-made for my cars. Robust. better cleaning. better base stocks. better additives. It's exactly what I would want if I was smart enough to blend my own.
Costs more, but you get more. Not really going to be a product for everyone.
Zee09
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Yes, I did but I contacted them directly.
Since you do not have a GDI vehicle it isn't a concern in your application
So, when talking about GDI vehicles, I assume you're concerned about fuel dilution? So, shorter interval to keep the dilution down? Right?
Wouldn't a better HTHS help, too?
You contacted an expert - wasn't your question/concern answered in that dialogue?
I'm excited to see how the HPL does in the Volvo. I bought another case of it two weeks ago, because I plan to change more of my cars over to it. I've got a case and a half in my shop (after changing the Volvo XC over last month).
But I'm too cheap to dump the Mobil 1 0W40 that has fewer than 1,000 miles on it, so the HPL will go in when those cars are due for a change.
The XC will be an interesting use case. It's a daily driver that's got nearly 280,000 miles on it. Runs great. Has rebuilt injectors (thanks to @Trav ) and good compression across all 5. Has a clean PCV system (the Volvo Achilles' Heel) and no external leaks. There is varnish in the engine (saw it when the pan was off fixing the PCV) but no sludge. Uses a bit of oil. Or, it did. So far, it's using less with HPL.
That's a big change for the XC.
I'll track consumption, pull a sample and change the filter at 5,000 miles. We will know more then.
My approach to the XC and her little drinking problem had been to find a cheap A3/B4 oil. I settled on Castrol 0W40 at $22/jug from Amazon. The oil loss is either past the rings, or perhaps past the turbo seals. Don't really know. What will be interesting, and why I'm excited to try the @High Performance Lubricants Euro oil, is to see the effects of high esters - will it permanently slow down the consumption by cleaning?
The Castrol was cheap to buy, but didn't use the quality components, or base stocks, that HPL does, so, while the engine didn't suffer any damage, it also wasn't seeing any improvement.
Time will tell.
The S600 used to go the whole 10,000 mile OCI without consumption, but I've also got a bit of a consumption problem on the S600 now, a quart every 5,000 miles. It's a leak and I know where it's leaking from. Unfortunately, I have to pull the engine to get at that particular leak, which isn't an easy job on the V-12, so...
Wouldn't a better HTHS help, too?
You contacted an expert - wasn't your question/concern answered in that dialogue?
I'm excited to see how the HPL does in the Volvo. I bought another case of it two weeks ago, because I plan to change more of my cars over to it. I've got a case and a half in my shop (after changing the Volvo XC over last month).
But I'm too cheap to dump the Mobil 1 0W40 that has fewer than 1,000 miles on it, so the HPL will go in when those cars are due for a change.
The XC will be an interesting use case. It's a daily driver that's got nearly 280,000 miles on it. Runs great. Has rebuilt injectors (thanks to @Trav ) and good compression across all 5. Has a clean PCV system (the Volvo Achilles' Heel) and no external leaks. There is varnish in the engine (saw it when the pan was off fixing the PCV) but no sludge. Uses a bit of oil. Or, it did. So far, it's using less with HPL.
That's a big change for the XC.
I'll track consumption, pull a sample and change the filter at 5,000 miles. We will know more then.
My approach to the XC and her little drinking problem had been to find a cheap A3/B4 oil. I settled on Castrol 0W40 at $22/jug from Amazon. The oil loss is either past the rings, or perhaps past the turbo seals. Don't really know. What will be interesting, and why I'm excited to try the @High Performance Lubricants Euro oil, is to see the effects of high esters - will it permanently slow down the consumption by cleaning?
The Castrol was cheap to buy, but didn't use the quality components, or base stocks, that HPL does, so, while the engine didn't suffer any damage, it also wasn't seeing any improvement.
Time will tell.
The S600 used to go the whole 10,000 mile OCI without consumption, but I've also got a bit of a consumption problem on the S600 now, a quart every 5,000 miles. It's a leak and I know where it's leaking from. Unfortunately, I have to pull the engine to get at that particular leak, which isn't an easy job on the V-12, so...
It is similar to buying a burger from Five Guys versus McDonalds. One costs more and you do get "more" for your money, but not everyone will find value in those extras. Both may still make you full...
I was going to make an Oban vs. Dewars comparison, but yeah, what you said…
Only I might go with a Del Frisco Double Eagle vs. MacDonalds...
Yes, never got answered. Where's the data that actually says it's better? It's one thing to come up with numbers in the lab, but then you want real world examples to validate the numbers in the lab because sometimes it looks good in the labs, but then when you do it in real life the numbers don't work out. I like to read the studies and look at the study data. Usually when you have some kind of sample size, there's some variation between samples. Then you can say this oil made things last 5%, 25%, 50%, 1000% longer than some other oil like Mobil 1 0w40. Or there's no difference. Or it's worse. Just like to see the data. Not really interested in longer OCI, I don't think the numbers work anyway, especially when Mobil is running a rebate, you'd basically have to last 4x longer to break even.
I think we're having a rolex vs. timex discussion here. There are folks on this site who desire a premium product that is the "best" for their application. Nothing wrong with either approach, I think you're just looking at different perspectives and priorities.
Well if you're into the science, the science can give you data as to what's best, it's all in the data. Without the data, how do you really know it's the best?
Maybe you get 1hp from the oil, but cold days will probably give you more hp than the oil used. Still I suppose if you want to use every trick in the book, that's one of them.Oil is about performance to me all of today's oils will make your engine last but I cannot afford to lose 1+hp at anytime
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I LOVE this guy! We are so spoiled by cheap WalMart oil that it has skewed our perspective on what is normal. Buying oil from any place other than WalMart will prove this. High quality costs money. That's just the cold hard truth.
I'm going to order up a six pack after the Holiday Season is concluded and things settle down a bit. I'll do my springtime oil change on my old BMW with the stuff and see how it smells.
I believe your position is pre disposed. We are not a good fit for everyone.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
He has a point about price. But don’t get fooled by wal mart price. It is heavily discounted for other reasons, among others to get you to the store.
Same Euro oils you find in Wal Mart are steeply priced in Europe for example.
So the real question is not as much price, as quality. They are formulating oil for certain group of people. I have too much stuff on the shed to try it now, but once I use Motul 300V 5W40 I will give HPL a try and do UOA on both. Why not? If I can pay for 300V I can most definitely pay for HPL.
Again, it is not for everyone, same as 300V is not.
Excellent choice LM I use it too, you can chose from Fuchs, Castrol, AGIP (hard to find here) Total etc
Why use M1 then? Any basic cheap-o 5W30 should work in about any car on the road for hundreds of thousands of miles of normal average everyday-Joe use.
Why are they any better than M1, or any other Walmart choice?
