Brian, if my car wasn't burning so much oil i'd be doing the maintenance dose just like your're doing now.
High Mileage Oil? SuperTech or Castrol?
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Funny you should ask this. My car burns a quart in 300-400 miles or so. I did an oil change a few months back with Castrol High Mileage 5W30... still burns just as fast. I've since topped up with a few quarts of Walmart HM 10W30... still the same. But maybe you'll have better luck.
My car burns 5W30 as fast as it burns gasoline.
Vilan,
Whatever oil i use to top off doesn't stand much of a chance. Simply because 1 quart of fresh oil can't do much good when 3 quarts of contaminated oil remain in the engine (unburnt fuel seeps past the rings and mixes with the oil causing the oil to lose it's lubricating properties-- contaminated oil).
Whatever oil i use to top off doesn't stand much of a chance. Simply because 1 quart of fresh oil can't do much good when 3 quarts of contaminated oil remain in the engine (unburnt fuel seeps past the rings and mixes with the oil causing the oil to lose it's lubricating properties-- contaminated oil).
I've used several of the HMs over several years. If I'm buying tomorrow, I'm buying Supertech High Mileage.
Seriously, how bad is your oil consumption and what type of driving do you do? My '90 Si consumes about one quart per 3000 miles (ARX treated about one year ago, regular oil changes with Chevron Supreme 5w30 or 10w30, but currently Valvoline SynPower 10w30).
I have recently moved about 2.5 miles from work (backroads reaching 55 mph for maybe one full mile or so). My previous trip to work was 9 miles (about 8 miles of it 65 mph freeway driving). Just stating all that as I'm curious to see if my oil consumption will increase due to short trips to work even if the car is now running a full synthetic.
BCR,
It's seriously way worse than yours.
And it's really hard to say exactly how much it burns because it's so erratic. I want to say that i might go up 800 miles on fresh oil before topping off. But after the oil has over 2,000 miles for a while i might be adding a quart every 200 miles or less. (i can hear people saying 'when is this idiot going to stop playing around with this tired engine! enough already! move on!')
Also i've made several significant mechanical improvements which affect the way i drive.
i.e. My car used to make noises in four different places-- trans, vavle train, loose mounts, sludged up pistons. I didn't burn much then because i never drove it hard. But lately i push the little 92 HP engine very hard simply because i can.
TYPE OF DRIVING
I've done a lot of contract work so I might be driving lots of highway for a few months. Then no highway for a few months. So it's hard to say.
BCR,
You might want to consider going back to 5W30 and/or warming up a bit before making your short commute. Or not. One quart every 3,000 is wonderful. I truly envy you.
Man, your consumption sounds just like my girlfriends '99 Corolla! After the first 1500 or so miles, it just eats and eats oil. Probably 4-5 quarts of make-up oil after 3000 miles. I typically use Shell 5w30 or Chevron 5w30 if I can get a rebate deal at Checker or Supertech High Mileage 5w30 just to not deal with rebates.
Anywho, I hear you about warm-up time for my Civic. It's really not a concern right now, due to 55 to 65 degree mornings (garage parked), but when winter comes I will get in the habit of letting the car idle for a minute or so.
Reason for buying Valvoline SynPower for the Civic.... 6 qts at Checker for roughly $21 and $15 rebate. In fact I just got the rebate in the mail Friday. I figure $1 per quart synthetic is a bargain and I can run that for 5-6000 miles. I won't go over 3500 on conventional oil for either of our cars.
Anywho, I hear you about warm-up time for my Civic. It's really not a concern right now, due to 55 to 65 degree mornings (garage parked), but when winter comes I will get in the habit of letting the car idle for a minute or so.
Reason for buying Valvoline SynPower for the Civic.... 6 qts at Checker for roughly $21 and $15 rebate. In fact I just got the rebate in the mail Friday. I figure $1 per quart synthetic is a bargain and I can run that for 5-6000 miles. I won't go over 3500 on conventional oil for either of our cars.
If you've got consumption that bad, I'd say it's time to forget about multi-viscosity oils and go straight to HD40. That's what I'd do anyway.
I recently had a car that was burning oil that bad and it wasn't worn rings, it was gummed up rings. Long story short the car was in great shape otherwise so I tore it down and replaced the gummy rings.
Then just today (before I read this post) I saw on Pablo's website a method of cleaning up the gum in the engine.
Here's the link http://pws.cablespeed.com/~pablomail/newoilflush.htm
you might want to try it.
Then just today (before I read this post) I saw on Pablo's website a method of cleaning up the gum in the engine.
Here's the link http://pws.cablespeed.com/~pablomail/newoilflush.htm
you might want to try it.
Thanks very much for posting.
I've done a few cycles of Auto RX. I've also used top end cleaners through air intake. So it's not gummed up rings. (I wish it was! that'd be great!)
I've done a few cycles of Auto RX. I've also used top end cleaners through air intake. So it's not gummed up rings. (I wish it was! that'd be great!)
Thanks for posting. But it burned long before i used restorer. (i'm now actually kind of embarrassed after admitting to using that.)
If your GF's Corolla goes through oil that quickly why are you using 5w30??? Go 10W-40 at least!
Also, my plan is to do more frequent oil changes. Your GF might consider the same. 1800 mi OCIs 3600 mile filter changes. (unburnt fuel doesn't clog filters so i don't have a special reason to worry about them)
As i've said before this article IMHO seems to explain what goes on in my engine. Your GF's car probably has the same.
"There are 3 things that make motor oil unfit for continued use in an engine:
1) The additive package becomes depleted...
3) The oil becomes fuel diluted with raw gasoline. Gas does not lubricate and an oil filter does not filter-out gas. Gas goes right through undeterred. An oil filter is designed to filter out particulate matter only. Cars that are driven mainly in the city with a lot of low-speed driving, a lot of traffic lights, and do a lot of idling tend to put a lot more unburned gas into the oil. It is common for cars to burn a considerable amount of oil because it has become fuel diluted, reducing its ability to lubricate. Then, because the thinned-out oil cannot seal as well, it will let even more unburned fuel and contaminates past the rings, and more of the oil will burn away. The gas being introduced will sometimes take the 'place' of the oil, and when you look on your dipstick, you see that it is 'full'. This will lead some to believe that their car does not burn oil.
Then, in this example, say you take this car on a 75 mile highway trip and when you get there, you check the oil only to find out that it is 2 or more quarts low! This concerns you, because the car has never burned oil before. So you add a couple of quarts, putting good clean gasoline-free motor oil in its place with nice and new robust additives. You drive home the 75 miles at a little slower speeds because you are concerned about the oil loss. When you get home, you are fully expecting to see a 2 quart loss. But you are surprised to see that it is still on the full mark! So now you are confused. Many will blame the brand of oil, the shop who did the change by installing the 'cheapo' house brand, and some will just scratch their heads in wonderment. Fuel dilution is the culprit. In reality, the fresh oil helped to seal well, lubricate better and prevent excess oil loss."
http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm
1 dollar for synthetic really is a sweet deal. Maybe i'll use sythetic after i get rid of this engine (which will certainly happen eventually)
skate I don't think your understanding me clearly
I know you burned oil before using the product, and restore should have slowed the burning somewhat.. and since there was no difference I am ruling that the piston rings are fine but your valve stem seals are toast.
I know you burned oil before using the product, and restore should have slowed the burning somewhat.. and since there was no difference I am ruling that the piston rings are fine but your valve stem seals are toast.
Doctor,
I'm sorry. Your right i did not understand what you meant by that.
Gotta run.
I'm sorry. Your right i did not understand what you meant by that.
Gotta run.
I would suggest a HDEO. Either a straight 30 or 15w40. Supertech has one, so does, mobil delvac, castrol tection, rotella, delo. Buy two one gallon jugs. Use your leftover as top off. Then do your drains and filter changes when you use the last of your topoff. This may or may not improve things but its worth a try and should be economical as these oils are not that expensive and they have extra additives in them.
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