High Milage Oil

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: HBCALI
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
"Full synthetic" - now there's an oxymoron ... That would include only some Amsoil and Redline in the US marketed oils(?) Everything else is dino extra high detergent oil.


What's your source? Are you seriously saying that all current main-stream synthetics are nothing more than conventional with a detergent package? So if I simply took out the detergent, a product like Mobil 1 would be totally equivilant to coventional oil?


Arco really likes to harp on this particular issue, even though the performance of the so-called "fake" synthetics is still excellent.

 

[charbaby]

I have had Honda's and run only conventional oil in them without any issues up to and past 300,000 miles. I don't know what else to say on that point.

I have a 1980 Firebird FORMULA V8(38K orig miles) that my wife and I bought new when we got married. Over the years, it has leaked a little oil and was going through 1 qt per 1000 miles. I notice no burning by sight nor smell. The reason I mention smell is because the exhaust smells the exact same when I start the engine as she did when new(very, very clean smelling). And the exhaust smells as clean as my newer vehicles. No, I don't sniff the tail pipe! But, you can smell it in the garage.

I have been using MaxLife 5W30 in the Firebird for the past two summer now and I can tell you that the leaking has slowed down considerably with fewer drips on the garage floor/driveway and no noticable make up oil to be added.

The first summer, '09, I didn't notice much difference in the drips remaining on the garage floor or driveway but, summer '10 was a different story. Much better!

 

[sangyup81]

Originally Posted By: HBCALI
Royal Purple has done well for me so far, but prices keep rising and it's getting harder to find.

Want to go for a sleeper oil that still supports 7.5k+ drain intervals? Try Supertech synthetic for $17/5qt. or Quaker State Ultimate Durability (synthetic) for $19/5qt at Walmart. They're group III oils, they're inexpensive, and you will be surprisingly pleased with their performance.

Of course a better way to save money IMO is to keep using RP and only drain it at 12.5k miles like the RP website tells you to.

 

[pavelow]

The "high mileage" oils fill a nice niche. The "high mileage" oils fall between a regular oil and a diesel oil.

 

[Unleashedbeast]

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Quest
No need to jump into the marketing hype

Incorrect...

not all of it is marketing...look at M1's HM line it IS a better built oil with boosted additives being a API SL rated oil vs. the standard flavor.

and all for the same exact price..


I agree, and what I recommend due to the extra amounts of ZDDP.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: HBCALI
Royal Purple has done well for me so far, but prices keep rising and it's getting harder to find.

Want to go for a sleeper oil that still supports 7.5k+ drain intervals? Try Supertech synthetic for $17/5qt. or Quaker State Ultimate Durability (synthetic) for $19/5qt at Walmart. They're group III oils, they're inexpensive, and you will be surprisingly pleased with their performance.

Of course a better way to save money IMO is to keep using RP and only drain it at 12.5k miles like the RP website tells you to.


shoot i just add to it when its low no need to change it out.
its been 30k and its runnin great. rp goes forever

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: HBCALI
Quote:
Your seals do not need conditioning so long as they don't leak, period.

Does that seem accurate to everyone? Seems resonable to me. What's the general consensus here - seal conditioners or not? Max Life marketing would like me to think the conditioners will prevent future leaks. Hype or not? Remember, I have no evident leaks and no burn-off during OCI.

Doesn't seem reasonable to me...

The idea is to condition the seals BEFORE they start leaking, once a leak starts often it cannot be stopped with just High Mileage oil...