Here we go, completely flatlined deka AGM

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Friend of mine bought a classic car (1965) and the PO mentioned it had a slow drain. We disconnected all of the aftermarket electronics…. The alternator, which is recent, may be the only unswitched device. We had the engine running then it sat for 8 weeks with a new Deka AGM. Battery voltage was 0.6, after 10 minutes on jumper cables. It showed a connection spark that looked like about 2 amps.

we left it on an old school charger for 6 hours, until it would hold an intelligent maintainer. Now it’s holding the maintainer. Fingers crossed! This one was indeed flattened and held flat.

while I was there, we added the quick disconnect for the maintainer….
 
Meep, dont be surprised if the battery appears to give up the ghost in the next few weeks. It has been my experience that most AGM batteries appear to be able to be revived with a conventional charger (not one that is AGM compatible). Even after they are placed on an AGM compatible maintainer, they die within a few weeks. I do not pretend to know what happens to them internally, but once an AGM shows these signs I quickly loos confidence in them and replace them with a new one.
 
Why would you spend that much on an AGM for 1965? They have no need for that tech. And if it's a classic, ideally you buy a vintage repro battery like what was new in 1965. Absent that, you buy the car brand's modern replacement. i.e. AC Delco for GM, Motorcraft for Ford, Mopar for Chrysler, etc. Not some aftermarket brand. Nothing turns me off more than seeing a $100,000 frame-off restoration sporting an Interstate battery.
 
8 weeks dead is a while. I had a total loss (no charging) race jet ski that would drain a battery. They had a long life as long as you charged them at the end of the day.
 
There's very little energy stored in a battery below 10.5v, some AGM say 11.1v at rest, is considered 100% discharged.

Huge difference if it was drawn below 10.5v 7 weeks ago or the day before, in terms of potential recovery.

Getting it battery to its full (unknown) potential remaining capacity, requires a true full charge. Not just old school charger A, then intelli- maintainer B, until green light flashes.

Might as well just rip out your speedometer and odometer and just drive until somebody tells you have arrived from an unknown starting point.

I'll assume a 100 amps hour group 27.

Hold it at 14.2 to 14.4v until amps taper to 0.5 or less, then float at 13.4v for 24 hours plus.

DeKa says 30 charging amps max, per 100 ah of capacity.
I greatly exceed this, often.
My dekas have a 5/2017 due code.

In deep cycle duty, no less than 20 charging amps and charge to true full as often as is possible, is the only way to get good + service life from agms.

Starting duty can fall anywhere from unintentional deep cycle and partial recharges, and whining humans, to a long life lived at 99%+ charged, and humans who then think AGMs are amazingly invulnerable to abuse, which they most assuredly are not.

Whenever I notice less voltage held than expected from my gc-2 6v Deka intimidators, when powering either a 180 amps starter for 2 seconds, or a 5 amp load for 10 hours, i intentionally drain the battery to ~50% or less, over 6 to 10 hours, then immediately hit them with 40+ amps, bring them to 14.4v for 30 minutes, lower to 14.1v, and wait for amps to taper to 0.5 or less.
This is no less than a 7 hour recharging process, even with a charger with 100 amp potential.

Each subsequent deep cycle, or engine start, the voltage maintained is significantly improved.

The deeper the discharge, the more important the recharge becomes, in maintaining both capacity, and cranking amp potential, and the potential speed of subsequent recharges/charge acceptance.

Deep cycled AGMs are tickled to a premature demise with low and slow charging currents. It is also important to achieve a true full charge, often.
The ONLY way to determine true full charge on an agm, is by holding the battery at absorption voltage, Not float, and watching the ammeter.

When it cannot accept more than 0.5 amps at absorption voltage, it is in the 99% charged range.
That last 1% can take 15 minutes, or 6 hours and how long it takes also indicates battery health.

But without an ammeter to see flow, much less a voltmeter to see electrical pressure, all one can hope for is the green light from an extra specially marketed charger/maintainer, and the amount of fanboys on the internet praising its abilities, without a clue.
 
All true. I’m not sure if he’ll have a chance to even look at it again until Saturday, but I’ll try to remember to report back. I told him not to expect much, but he could get lucky.
 
Reporting back!

(yes I think the alternator is the slow leak culprit, and we intend to check)

I am pleased to report that the AGM came back. the maintainer finally latched on its own after 6 hours on an old charger, and took about 4 days to turn green (full charge). It popped off with authority today, ran on its own, sort of, and was restarted about 30 times before we called in quits. I wired the maintainer connector so he can keep it warm while we work out all the bugs.

the car made it 3 miles on its own today.
 
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