HEPA engine filter?

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quote:

Originally posted by oilyriser:
What would happen if someone were to install a
HEPA filter on a car engine, assuming all the
proper calculations were done to insure air flow?

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Been thinking this for awhile.
What I have been thinking is getting the filters a little big and then placing them over the opening of my air box. Also been thinking of placing the HEPA inside stuck to foam or in the inside hole with Rubber bands and placing panty-hose over the outside one to catch the big stuff. Also it would help me go into deep water since my truck doesn't like water very much... In addition to this I think WHY NOT also place one with some painters tape, over the metal screen that's past the OEM filter. This way you have 1. to catch the big junk (easily cleaned or replaced) 2. pre filter 3. OEM filter 4. Post filter.

Wonder if the truck will be okay, or hurt MPG?
 
What would happen if someone were to install a
HEPA filter on a car engine, assuming all the
proper calculations were done to insure air flow?

Wal Mart here is selling cylindrical gore-tex
HEPA filters made for wet/dry vacuums. They're
quite sturdy, and advertised as washable.
They're supposed to stop 99.97% of particles at
0.3 microns. It might take three of them glued
together to provide enough flow for a small car's
engine.

Could using absolutely pure air completely stop
wear on the rings?
 
i think the guy who tested the air filters tested this filter as well.

i think that u cannot completley rid all wear from the intake...there is always a chance that dirt is going through. my baldwin filter is i think 99.94 percent efficient or something like that.

http://www.baldwinfilters.com/products/air.html

but also that is a variation. the hepa filter may filter good at first i bet....but after a while it will become TOoo restrictive.

i know that hepa filters are good for allergys..but ur car doesnt care about allergys...it cares about the contaminants and the micro elements that may damage rings.


thats my OPINION though...
 
The HEPA filter will most likely filter a lot more crap out of the air stream than even the best paper filter designed for a car.

Why? The HEPA filter will remove the smallest contaminants, allergens, etc... whereas a car filter wasn't designed to remove allergens, dust particles, etc.... as much as it was designed to remove dirt, grit, etc...

However the HEPA filter would most likely clog a LOT quicker than the standard paper element because of this.
 
quote:

Originally posted by metroplex:
-*-*-*
However the HEPA filter would most likely clog a LOT quicker than the standard paper element because of this.


How much quicker... would this be an 3K thing or a 1K thing?
 
Robbie:

let's just say my HEPA panel filter for a small Holmes unit starts turning black after a month of occaisonal use INDOORS.

It takes about a year of driving in NJ for a paper filter to turn black.

I'd say maybe a month TOPS before your HEPA filter becomes useless in a normal driving environment...

But yeah the cost definitely makes it inefficient. I pay about $10+ for the HEPA panel filter. It costs $4-5 for a standard car paper filter.
 
So how's this for an idea. If you have the drop-in K&N filter, this may work.

Take the HEPA filter, cut a piece big enough, and drop it into your airbox so that you'll really have an air-tight seal with the K&N installed. cut excess, button everything up.

Max filtering with minimum airlow with the HEPA, and pretty good filtering with max airflow with the K&N.

Worth a try????
 
This is an interesting question. I thought the first issue to look into is how efficient standard paper filters are, and I found the info below on the Web. The authoritative AC Filter/Detroit Diesel SAE test determined that particles in the 2-22 micron range cause most wear in engines, so that's the particle range we're concerned about -- particles below that range shouldn't be an issue since the smallest bearing clearances in operating engines were measured at 2-3.8 microns.

Perhaps some of you engineering types can take the info below and translate it into useful analysis as to a Yes/No/Maybe answer to this "HEPA" question.

"As a result, most PAPER air filters won't catch anything smaller than about 20 to 40 microns with any real efficiency. In most cases, the more expensive the filter, the lower the micron level of filtration - and the lower the better, of course. Because of the depth-type nature of FOAM air filters and their added tack oil, they will remove most particles larger than 5 to 10 microns."
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change-4.htm

"AMSOIL Air Filters can filter out dirt smaller than ONE MICRON (conventional average 20 to 30 microns!)"
http://home.earthlink.net/~ztrem/AirFilters.htm

"Another KOHLER Aegis advantage is its heavy-duty air cleaner system that has been designed with a maximum filtering area (838 square inches) and fine-mesh main filter element (5 micron). Each system comes standard on the engine and features a reliable two-stage filtration system that covers a greater area than standard air filters. The main filter traps the dirty air, while the inner filter (8 micron) protects the carburetor from contamination during main filter servicing."
http://www.kohlerengines.com/press/pr_aegis27.html

(The SAE J726 air filter test code): "The OEM minimum specification is 96% with ISO (International Organization for Standardization) test dust which consists of a majority of 0 to 5 micron particles but some up to 20 microns in size. Test results showed that a paper filter has a 99.29% cumulative efficiency and a 96.47% initial pass. A K&N filter, with far less restriction than paper, has a 99.05% cumulative efficiency and a 97.11% initial pass."
http://www.brandsport.com/knfaqs.html

"We were surprised to see some disposable paper air filters with an overall filtration efficiency as low as 93%. The content of the test dust used in accordance with the testing procedure follows:
Particle Size in Microns: % by Volume (+/- 3%)
5.5 to 11: 11%
11 to 22: 13%
22 to 44: 19%
44 to 88: 28%
88 to 176: 16%
http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm

"Engine air filters begin to restrict airflow into an engine at about 500mm of water (50 mbar)."
http://www.gud.co.za/GUD/gud.nsf/pgTechIS10P1?OpenPage

For what it's worth, I also discovered that CABIN air filters (vehicle interior) filter down to the 0.1-1 micron level, with about 100% filtration achieved at the 3 micron level. Some cabin filters also have a layer of activated charcoal that captures in-bound gases and odors.

Gasoline and diesel engine FUEL filters typically filter down to the 2-10 micron level. Lawnmower engine fuel filters down to 75-80 microns, with racing versions of same for go-karts at about 150 microns apparently.
 
Most of the HEPA filters sold for vacuum cleaners
are made of glass fiber paper, which sheds a lot
when new, so it would be best to put it upstream
of the regular filter, but also downstream of
a pre-filter to keep it from clogging too fast.

I'm curious if an engine would last longer,
without losing compression, if it had very clean
air going in. There are other causes of ring
wear, such as soot, ash from oil combustion, and
the fact that they stop moving at the top and
bottom of the stroke, and no longer float on a
film of oil.

Mobil did that demonstration, going 1 million
miles, and there was little wear. But the car
was in a lab, getting relatively clean air.
Would it have lasted that long if it had been
exposed to road dust?
 
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