Help with Diagnostic Trouble Code - and Heated O2 Sensor Result

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
1,307
Location
Vancouver, BC Canada
Folks, the following two screenshots are apparent on my 1997 Honda Civic EX 2 door, with a 1.6 litre D16Y8 engine... (see photos) and it would appear to me that this corresponds to the upstream O2 sensor. I used that Bluetooth dongle, plus the "Torque" (free) App.

It is code P0135.

Can folks chime-in, here, re whether the undercar O2 sensor is NOT heated, or at the least, can folks advise whether "Bank 1, Sensor 1" (engine only has one bank, it is an L4 engine) is necessarily the upstream sensor?

Screenshot_2018-11-13-22-31-26.png


Screenshot_2018-11-13-22-03-57.png
 
The upstream should be going up and down a lot. Not a flat line like you have.
[Linked Image]
 
Last edited:
Sorry - the trace indicated in the second of my pictures is of the acceleration of my android phone... the only trace i have active on Torque. LOL. I wanted only for folks to see the P0135 code...
 
You can usually count on ALL O2 sensers on OBD2 compliant vehicles to be heated. Bank 1 Sensor 1 IS the upstream sensor.

The set criteria for P0135 on vehicles with PCM-PWM controlled heaters is based on Amperage Draw.....Anything under @ 0.2 amps (Open) & Anything over 2.0 amps (Short) will set this code.

You most likely have an Open Heater element in the O2 sensor, Though it could be wiring/connection issues & the PCM itself is also a possibility. Depends if you want to throw parts at it....Or diagnose it properly??
 
I don't know, for less the $27 for a Denso upstream on Rock I might just throw a front O2 at a 20+ year old car throwing this code just for the heck of it if I didn't have the diagnostic tools.

49.gif
 
Originally Posted by Trav
I don't know, for less the $27 for a Denso upstream on Rock I might just throw a front O2 at a 20+ year old car throwing this code just for the heck of it if I didn't have the diagnostic tools.

49.gif




Don't know the mileage on the 97. But i throw fresh upstream 02 sensors on all my cars when they hit the 70-80k mile mark. That way i'm never caught with one going bad and having to tow it or drive it and kill expensive cats.
 
I'm with TRAV. Mine got lazy but wouldn't code. Cleaned throttle body,new spark plugs and installed new O2 with a pinch of Gumout Regane and it went back to normal. Check your plugs,pcv valve, clean throttle and put a new o2 sensor. If mpg is falling that is a sign too.
 
Thanks Y'All. Car has 62,000 miles on it. Gas mi. is dropping, yes. I hav put maybe a couple of thousand miles on it with the car in this state ...¦. Though we do not have emissions testing here any longer, i now am worried if i have been spewing broken and breaking-up catalyst ceramic back into my engine via the EGR .... Compression test? I hav put very few highway miles on car, since CEL came on. How to check if the precat still is intact, ok? BTW, $27 Rock Auto O2 sensor sounds fantastic!
 
Its a heater circuit code, the O2 is still working it just stays in open loop longer, that is what is probably driving your mpg down a little especially in cold weather,
These cars are not known for broken cats and you are not getting a P420 so the cat is functional. You can tap the cat lightly with a rubber mallet if its not rattling in there its not broken up.
 
I had that code on my 04 civic for several months before I replaced the sensor. The sensor heater tested as open circuit but the car ran fine and fuel economy was unchanged. I waited until closer to inspection time to replace it as the later d17 uses an air fuel ratio sensor which cost around $120 for a denso sensor.

Your sensor should be cheap and fairly easy to replace, but in the meantime it won't cause any damage to continue driving.
 
Thx. I priced the sensor at Cdn Tire but it showed at more than Cdn$150 ...¨. Will also try Rock Auto + US Honda Internet parts places...
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top