Help understanding A5 / B5 certification / spec

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FWIW, our 2014 XC60 3.2 has the same A5/B5 requirement. Our local Volvo dealers in Savannah & Hilton Head use Castrol Edge Professional - a minor dye-enhanced tweak of Castrol Edge Gold Bottle for the Drive-E, 3.0 (T6) & 3.2 engines. I will probably go with Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum when the free oil changes are used up. Certainly no complaints with Castrol Edge, however.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Garak
Motorcraft oils are supplied by a different company in Canada than they are in the States

who makes Canadian Motorcraft?
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Canadian-maple-syrup.jpg
 
Really, an A5 is just your garden variety ILSAC 5w30 synthetic.
Ignore the B part, since you don't have a diesel.
Any 5w30 syn on the shelves at Walmart will meet this spec, whether it says so on the bottle or not.
On 5K drains, I wouldn't be too concerned about oil quality as long as a syn labeled oil is used.
 
Originally Posted By: JackP33333
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly
For running in the hot summer desert with a turbo, I would run at least a 40w.

But that would mean it won't be ACEA A5/B5.


Is this universally true?

Yes because any Xw-40 will have HT/HS viscosity of at least 3.5 cP while ACEA A5/B5 requires an HT/HS to be below 3.5 cP for fuel economy reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
who makes Canadian Motorcraft?
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I believe it's Mobil. It seems to me, though, that the Motorcraft 5w-50 is imported, though, from the U.S. Motorcraft lineup.

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Really, an A5 is just your garden variety ILSAC 5w30 synthetic.

It is a little more than that, to the point that it has gotten rather difficult to find.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: JackP33333
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly
For running in the hot summer desert with a turbo, I would run at least a 40w.

But that would mean it won't be ACEA A5/B5.


Is this universally true?

Yes because any Xw-40 will have HT/HS viscosity of at least 3.5 cP while ACEA A5/B5 requires an HT/HS to be below 3.5 cP for fuel economy reasons.


From what I am seeing - particularly this - it sounds like I am better to run a 5w-40 and have "receipts" for something certified - correct?

What would one recommend for this application? I am OK spending some money.
 
The A5/B5 spec is an excellent European oil spec.

For Resource Conserving oils you have A1/B1 and A5/B5, they are similar but with the A5/B5 being a slightly higher standard.

For more heavy duty or performance applications you have A3/B3 and A3/B4, again those two are similar but the A3/B4 being a slightly higher standard (eg more TBN is required).

Many good full synthetic ILSAC oils make A1/B1 (eg Mobil 1 10W30) which is close, but few make A5/B5.

I would use a A5/B5 oil because:
- it's a great quality oil
- that is what the owners manual says to use
- you can buy them if you look around

According to this Data Sheet (here) Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 is A5/B5 as well as SN, GF-5, A1/B1, Dexos 1, HTO-06 and MS-6395.
 
Originally Posted By: JackP33333
From what I am seeing - particularly this - it sounds like I am better to run a 5w-40 and have "receipts" for something certified - correct?

What would one recommend for this application? I am OK spending some money.

I don't really like the first approach, of course. Realistically, using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 SN/GF-5 A5/B5 is the safest bet. It follows warranty requirements to the letter.

I had no problem switching viscosities before my warranty expiry, but I accepted the risk, however minimal I thought they would be. I've never had an engine fail under warranty. This engine wasn't consuming oil or acting up. It was near warranty end, and was generally known to be a good engine family.

Note they can't void your engine warranty for simply using the wrong viscosity. But, they could make things difficult. Of course, that also means something has to go wrong in the first place, and that they actually do more than check to ensure that you don't have black sludge in the crankcase or hardly any oil at all, or other things demonstrating neglect.
 
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