Help removing brake drums

[Jimmy9190]

I wanted to inspect and clean the rear drum brakes on my truck but can not get the drum off the hub. Not even after turning the adjuster wheel to loosen the shoes. The drum came about halfway off and would not budge. I left it alone because I didn't want to break anything. Any help/ideas/info is greatly appreciated..

 

[huffmuds9320]

Before removing the rear drum brakes, you need to release the parking brake first. First time I did that I was wondering why it will not come out too. Make sure you block the front wheels for safety.

 

[The Critic]

1. Wack with a hammer
2. Drive a screw into the center hole on each side of the drum. This should only be tried if the hammer method fails.

 

[JTK]

I've never had one with some years/miles on it come off easily. If it did come half-way off, it must have cleared the shoes then. Keep rocking the drum as you pull and it should release.

Joel

 

[Jimmy9190]

Thanks guys. I'll try it again this weekend. I did tap on it with a hammer but not very hard. Am pretty sure the parking brake was off. I had the whole truck off the ground on 4 jackstands to rotate the tires when I tried to take a look at the brakes. At least I was able to inspect and clean the front brakes and lubricate the caliper slide pins that day but the rear drums just would not budge. Will try a bigger hammer on Saturday..

Thanks again

 

[LAGA]

Open the bleeder screw to release pressure, and move drum back and forth to compress cylinder. Should have plenty of room then.

 

[alreadygone]

When drum will come that far off, it's usually juat a matter of working around with a pry tool (preferably a LARGE screwdriver) untill it comes on off. If you backed the adjuster off there should be no problem with lip on very outer edge of drum (caused from wear on actual contact surface leaving non-worn portion still in place). This lip is usually only major drum removal problem source after center hole clears axle flange. If you aren't getting it past axle flange, then that's also a source of hang up.

Bob

 

[onion]

Originally Posted By: LAGA
Open the bleeder screw to release pressure, and move drum back and forth to compress cylinder. Should have plenty of room then.


Don't do this. Opening the bleeder will do nothing but make a mess and/or get air in the system.

 

[alreadygone]

Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: LAGA
Open the bleeder screw to release pressure, and move drum back and forth to compress cylinder. Should have plenty of room then.


Don't do this. Opening the bleeder will do nothing but make a mess and/or get air in the system.


Agree. Totally unnecessary.

Bob

 

[LAGA]

I have done this on really stubborn drums and it does not make a mess. Put a vinyl tube over the bleeder to control fluid and drums come right off. If you are going through the trouble of pulling drums now is a good time to change out old brake fluid. Sometimes there are more ways to do things than get a bigger hammer. IMHO

 

[mechtech2]

The slave cylinder is not the problem, it is the adjuster, or parking brake system. The shoes don't rest on the brake slave cylinder pressure - that is ridiculous.
Relieving pressure won't make the ratchet in the adjuster or parking brake system disappear.
Heavy prying will work, but you will need attachment hardware because you will bend or break it.
See if you can get a little more freedom from the adjusters or P brake.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Thanks for all the help here, guys. When I tried to get the drum off the other day, it came about 1/3 of the way off and was stuck. I did loosen the adjuster as far as I thought it could go, but all I had to use was a small flat-blade screwdriver, and I don't think it was turning it enough. I will buy a brake adjuster tool before I try it again. I just had a complete brake fluid flush done about a year ago, so I'd rather not crack open the bleeder screw.

 

[JTK]

It's an extra good time if the star wheel adjuster can only be accessed with the drum off (no hole through the backing plate). The last few drum removals I did were designed that way (Windstar, Trailblazer and my Cobalt I believe). I actually popped the rear drums off my Cobalt when it was brand-new to throw some Never-Seize around the hub. Again, the old impact/air chisel trick works wonders on stuck drums as well. A few quick bursts around the face of the drum between the studs does the trick really well.

Joel

 

[eljefino]

If the brake pedal is all the way up there's a slit open in the master cylinder that will bleed pressure up to the reservoir. No need to open the bleeder.

I think the rusty ridge is giving you grief. Stick the truck in neutral and spin the drum a few times; the shoes will grind that rust off and you should be good to go.

Whenever I have trouble it's with the rusty hub flange; good thing you're beyond that.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

I had to use my 4lb wrench to get off some tiny CRX drums. They were below minimum thickness and that ridge on the inside edge was very pronounced. Whacked on 'em and rocked 'em back and forth until they came off.

Possible that you'll want to go ahead and have new drums & brake rebuild kit standing by. If you think they MAY need it, you might as well go ahead and do it after all that trouble to get the drums off.

 

[Buffman]

To get a drum off, you need heat, and something to beat with