Help! New waterpump but now won't run

[wlkjr1951]

Had a bad rattle in the engine compartment of my 97 GP with 3.8 and I suspected the waterpump so I put in a new one. Apparently that was the cause of the rattle but now it won't hardly run. I put in new antifreeze and opened the bleeder valve and tried to purge the air. Let it run for about 4 minutes and took off down the road. Started down a hill and it revved up real high and then had no power. I noticed the speedo was not working either. That leads me to believe it is electronic. It started overheating and I headed back to the house. The temp got to about 240. I cut it off and opened the bleeder again. Lots of steam came out and apparently opened the thermostat. The temps went back down to about 200. Went for a short test run but no power. It will hardly go. Also the svc. engine light is now on. Anyone have any suggestions?

[ April 29, 2004, 09:15 PM: Message edited by: wlkjr1951 ]

 

[tom slick]

it sounds like you have accidently disconnected a harness somewhere? maybe try looking in the areas you worked and see if something is loose.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

check ur grounds.

 

[wlkjr1951]

I've looked all over 2 or 3 times to see if I disconnected anything or have broken something and I can't find anything. Sure hate to take it in for repairs. On first acceleration it seemed fine, but then revved up high like it was in neutral and lost power. If I had a code reader that would give me a hint I'm sure.

 

[T-Keith]

There is really no good expanation for this other than a unpluged or damaged wire or sensor. Is the SES light on, can you scan for codes?

-T

 

[wlkjr1951]

The SES light is on.I'm going to rent a code reader from AutoZone and see what the codes are. Hope that will point me in the right direction.

 

[wlkjr1951]

I thought about disconnecting the battery to see if it would reset the computer. Have borrowed a scanner from Autozone just in case. Now I have to go to Atlanta and replace my girlfriend's alternator. She called and said she needed a new battery cause her battery light was on and the meter was between 9 and 14. Told her the alt. was shot, not to drive it. Where does it end?

 

[ZR2RANDO]

Just don't have a crash going to Atlanta

 

[JohnBrowning]

If you were working on the water pump you probably damaged or disconected the crank sensor or cam sensor. These sensores conect to the harness that goes to the coil pack and some other chunk ot the engine harness up buy the fuel rail. I just replaced this harness on mine. With out the cam or crank sensor your engine will run poorly.

 

[T-Keith]

That's the first thing you should do.

-T

 

[Mike_dup1]

Try disconnecting the battery for several minutes and then try it. If it clears up, then you did something to trigger this.

As with all engine repairs, you should FIRST disconnect the negative battery cable before work on the engine. I have seen where someone inadvertently touched an electrical connector with a screwdriver and shorted it out.

 

[JohnBrowning]

THe vechile speed sensor should be located in or on the transmission I think. THe wheel speed sensors are at each hub. I do not remember if it is accesable from outside the vechile or if the transmission side or bottom pan must come off.

 

[wlkjr1951]

Thanks guys, I've found the sensor that was the problem. Just like JohnBrowning said, it was on the side of the transmission. Apparently I knocked it off when the power steering pump moved. I crawled under it and finally saw the connector dangling. Runs like a scalded dog now, hopefully for another 265K miles.

 

[wlkjr1951]

I get a code P0502 which is a Vehicle speed sensor A low input. Now if I can figure out where that is. The speedo won't work and on initial acceleration it is ok but at about 30 mph it revs up real high like it is neutral and then loses all power. Does this within the first 100 yards. Anyone know where this speed sensor A might be located?