Help needed...MAF-cleaning.

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This may be an unusual post...
I live in Oak Ridge, Tennessee....

I've heard of people cleaning MAF's (mass Air Flow sensors) of their cars by hand, CAREFULLY spraying eletronic parts cleaner or windex on to it. This apparently works "miracles" (more power, better mileage) with higher mileage cars. Dealerships/service shops don't recommend doing this.

I have a 1997 T-bird with 85,000 miles, and I'm not a great DIY expert...no expert at all.

So, is there anyone close to me who's an expert in cleaning MAF's? If so I would be forever thankful and be even ready to pay(no offense) if someone could do this for me? Pls. let me know.
 
If you can find the MAF (Somewhere between airbox and throttle body), then you can clean it yourself. If you can't find the MAF, ask on this board, and someone will know where it is.

You remove the MAF from its housing. Usually you have to remove two tamper-resistent torx screws. I got the necessary bit at an ACE hardware store.
You hold the sensor with the wire (assuming it's the hot wire type, some have a little "plate") down and spray electronics or brake cleaner on the wire until it's shiny. The wire is fragile, so be careful. I recommend you use isopropyl alcohol (from the drugstore) to remove any electronics or brake cleaner residue after that. Let the sensor dry and reinstall it.

MAFs are expensive, and you should ALWAYS try to clean it before buying a new one for a couple hundred dollars.
 
I think that this sounds like a job for Amsoil Power Foam. It will kleen the unit in place it will also clean the rest of the intake track out. You will need to change the oil after useing power foam though. The less you handle the MAF the harder it is to break it!
 
I have a 95 Tbird with a 4.6. The MAF is a little ways past the airbox, with two t-20 tamperproof torxbits on it. Simply disconnect the wire on the back of the sensor after removing the torx and carefully lift the MAF straight up. Then use electronics contact cleaner on the wires. Avoid any actual physical contact with the wires as theyre very fragile. Using some alcohol on the wires after may be a good idea even though I did not do that. Let dry and carefully reinstall. You should reset the ECC after this and probably try to follow the guide for reteaching the ECC in your manual, though it is a PITA.
 
Why do you guys keep referring to Torx heads as tamper reistant/proof? Nothing special about them, other than being slightly harder to strip than regular screw heads.

Cheers, 3MP
 
quote:

Originally posted by 3 Mad Ponchos:
Why do you guys keep referring to Torx heads as tamper reistant/proof? Nothing special about them, other than being slightly harder to strip than regular screw heads.

Cheers, 3MP


They do make a tamper proof torx head screw (I don't know what is in a ford MAF sensor). It has a little stud sticking up in the middle of the star, so the driver must have a hole in the middle to remove them.
 
Yup, looks like this:

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http://www.wihatools.com/images/Bits/701endpix150.jpg

Even my transmission drain plug has a tamper-resistant torx head. A big one...
tongue.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by 97tbird:
Dealerships/service shops don't recommend doing this.

My dealership has a mechanic that does it and he does it REAL good. Has tried to show other mechanics (at the same dealership) how to do it and they cannot catch on. Dang that guy is GOOD. And he's at the dealership. So I'm not sure I can be in full agreement that they don't recommend it, BUT I am under the impression that such great care must be taken that you might as well have someone GOOD doing it (you asked for an 'expert'...keep in mind some define 'expert' as someone that has done it before; or done it more than 3 times. Others like Mr Spock or Tuvoc will not agree that they are experts in logic
grin.gif


I think YOU put it best when you had the word 'carefully' in all-caps. This is a situation where saving time or money should not be a factor.
Thanks
Rob
 
Of course, dealerships and service shops don't recommend doing this. They want to sell you a new MAF (usually with housing!) for a hefty markup. They also want to charge you half an hour labor for removal and installation, even if it takes not more than 5 minutes (on my car).

Let's say they remove the MAF sensor and try to clean it. They don't want to risk breaking it. They also don't want to have to warranty their work for 30 days, if the part has been cleaned and not replaced.

I asked my mechanic what he thought about cleaning the MAF. He said he'd do it, but only on his own car.
tongue.gif
 
I clean mine with some non-residue contact cleaner. Never touch the wires or allow any residue to stay on them.
 
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