I have posted a lot of what if scenarios and have read a lot of advise on the web both here and in other web sites in regard to OCI's and synthetics and conventional. I have gotten some really good advise from various members within the forums. However, I'm still on the fence because it seems I find more advice suggesting that since all my trips are under 10 miles which cause a lot of fuel and water contamination, I should just use conventional and change according to my owners manual which states every 3 months or 3 thousand miles for severe service. This is something of great concern to me as far as doing the right thing because my vehicles must last me for quite a few more years as I can not afford another one for a long long time. Many have told me I need to get my cars on the highway for 20-30 minutes once a week to burn out the contaminants, but this is not realistic for me, and likely will not happen. So what I want to know is, given my circumstances with all these short trips, is synthetic oil really a waste of money for me, or will it protect better under my driving conditions compared to a conventional? Can't really afford a UOA…yes…money is actually that tight for me; however, I will flip the bill for a jug of conventional if, IF it is better for my engines.
Help me understand my situation
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I recommend Castrol GTX 5w-30 at 3k ocior 3 months, whichever comes first.
I'm in the same situation. I'm terrified of my engine (and especially transmission) going while I'm still paying the $701 monthly bill. Since I have not come to a conclusion as to which route is best I've been playing it safe (or so I think) with a full synthetic at ~5K OCIs.
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Many have told me I need to get my cars on the highway for 20-30 minutes once a week to burn out the contaminants, but this is not realistic for me, and likely will not happen.
Why not just let it idle once a week for 30 minutes if you can't drive it on the freeway?
Many have told me I need to get my cars on the highway for 20-30 minutes once a week to burn out the contaminants, but this is not realistic for me, and likely will not happen.
Why not just let it idle once a week for 30 minutes if you can't drive it on the freeway?
GMBoy said:
As long as you are getting up to full operating temperatures long enough to evaporate the condensate that can occur at cold start-ups, you shouldn't have water build-up in the oil. If you use the cheapest API SM-rated oil you can find, have a normally functioning fuel system and EGR system, you will easily be fine to change every 3000 miles.
Why not take it for a 30 mile trip on the weekends. Jsut go for a drive.
Othewise I don't see what you have to worry about if you are only making 10 mile trips.
If the car is new it will be under warranty so jsut do the oil changes at the proper time.
If it is not under warranty then jsut do 3K changes with a regular dino oil and you should be fine. 10 miles is not a super short distance and I don't htink you are goign to have problems.
As for the transmission going- why would the transmission go if you are making short trips. As long as yu are not puttign the pedal to the floor every time you drive. If yo uare then don't expect anyhting to last- drive smart.
Othewise I don't see what you have to worry about if you are only making 10 mile trips.
If the car is new it will be under warranty so jsut do the oil changes at the proper time.
If it is not under warranty then jsut do 3K changes with a regular dino oil and you should be fine. 10 miles is not a super short distance and I don't htink you are goign to have problems.
As for the transmission going- why would the transmission go if you are making short trips. As long as yu are not puttign the pedal to the floor every time you drive. If yo uare then don't expect anyhting to last- drive smart.
You don't say what kind of car - but there are smart synthetic choices for your situation that will last a long while and help your car last a long while.
My absolute first choice would be: Amsoil ACD 10W-30
Sure it's a 10W-30(SAE 30), but as a synthetic it will crank mighty cold. It's got a huge, hard holding TBN, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. As a PC, just over $20 gallon. Just change it every six months, or maybe a bit longer - your iron wear will be very low (no viscosity enhancers) and fast flow on start up, and TBN will remain high (diesel formula)
My absolute first choice would be: Amsoil ACD 10W-30
Sure it's a 10W-30(SAE 30), but as a synthetic it will crank mighty cold. It's got a huge, hard holding TBN, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. As a PC, just over $20 gallon. Just change it every six months, or maybe a bit longer - your iron wear will be very low (no viscosity enhancers) and fast flow on start up, and TBN will remain high (diesel formula)
Originally Posted By: Pablo
You don't say what kind of car - but there are smart synthetic choices for your situation that will last a long while and help your car last a long while.
My absolute first choice would be: Amsoil ACD 10W-30
Sure it's a 10W-30(SAE 30), but as a synthetic it will crank mighty cold. It's got a huge, hard holding TBN, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. As a PC, just over $20 gallon. Just change it every six months, or maybe a bit longer - your iron wear will be very low (no viscosity enhancers) and fast flow on start up, and TBN will remain high (diesel formula)
Yes, I've been given this suggestion of going the synthetic rout and extending the interval, but most people tell me I shouldn't do that even with synthetic because of fuel and moisture. Most web sites advise to change every 3mo or 3k even with syn in my circumstances. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I want to know how it is that fuel and moisture in synthetic oil will still protect under an extended OCI?
You don't say what kind of car - but there are smart synthetic choices for your situation that will last a long while and help your car last a long while.
My absolute first choice would be: Amsoil ACD 10W-30
Sure it's a 10W-30(SAE 30), but as a synthetic it will crank mighty cold. It's got a huge, hard holding TBN, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. As a PC, just over $20 gallon. Just change it every six months, or maybe a bit longer - your iron wear will be very low (no viscosity enhancers) and fast flow on start up, and TBN will remain high (diesel formula)
Yes, I've been given this suggestion of going the synthetic rout and extending the interval, but most people tell me I shouldn't do that even with synthetic because of fuel and moisture. Most web sites advise to change every 3mo or 3k even with syn in my circumstances. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I want to know how it is that fuel and moisture in synthetic oil will still protect under an extended OCI?
I would do Pennzoil/Valvoline/Castrol GTX at 3,000/3 months personally.
Nothing but short trips is how my wife used to drive to her last job. I changed the oil every 3 months or 2500 miles. It was just not her way to take it out for a drive on the weekends. There was no sense in spending a lot of money on synthetics.
There really isn't much to agonize over, here. Short intervals are called for and synthetics aren't cost effective. Any conventional oil brand and a Purolator filter will do fine.
If you can find a way to take the long way to work a time or two a week, or maybe a morning drive on the weekend (I drive about as long as it takes to smoke a cigar...45-60 minutes), it would help the health of your vehicle.
IMHO.
There really isn't much to agonize over, here. Short intervals are called for and synthetics aren't cost effective. Any conventional oil brand and a Purolator filter will do fine.
If you can find a way to take the long way to work a time or two a week, or maybe a morning drive on the weekend (I drive about as long as it takes to smoke a cigar...45-60 minutes), it would help the health of your vehicle.
IMHO.
Originally Posted By: SAM1
Yes, I've been given this suggestion of going the synthetic rout and extending the interval, but most people tell me I shouldn't do that even with synthetic because of fuel and moisture. Most web sites advise to change every 3mo or 3k even with syn in my circumstances. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I want to know how it is that fuel and moisture in synthetic oil will still protect under an extended OCI?
When you say under 10 miles - are you talking 2 miles, 2 blocks, 5 miles? It makes a difference - if it's more than 2 miles - that should get rid of most moisture and fuel.
It also makes a difference if the car is garaged. Most important is if the car is well tuned!
The stouter synthetic base oil, the total lack of VII and high TBN will deal with the residual fuel and H2O - by not shearing, and neutralizing the acid by-products.
Have you done a UOA at 3 months? I say do one at 3 months - I'll bet your oil won't be as scary as you think (IF the car is in tune). Do one at 6 months with the ACD and you'll be pleasantly surprised.......but again what kind of car?
Yes, I've been given this suggestion of going the synthetic rout and extending the interval, but most people tell me I shouldn't do that even with synthetic because of fuel and moisture. Most web sites advise to change every 3mo or 3k even with syn in my circumstances. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I want to know how it is that fuel and moisture in synthetic oil will still protect under an extended OCI?
When you say under 10 miles - are you talking 2 miles, 2 blocks, 5 miles? It makes a difference - if it's more than 2 miles - that should get rid of most moisture and fuel.
It also makes a difference if the car is garaged. Most important is if the car is well tuned!
The stouter synthetic base oil, the total lack of VII and high TBN will deal with the residual fuel and H2O - by not shearing, and neutralizing the acid by-products.
Have you done a UOA at 3 months? I say do one at 3 months - I'll bet your oil won't be as scary as you think (IF the car is in tune). Do one at 6 months with the ACD and you'll be pleasantly surprised.......but again what kind of car?
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