Help I have gone amsoil crazy

[buster]

Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
Help I have gone amsoil crazy



Good ..maybe it's contagious

I'll tell ya this SSO is the first oil I have ever used in my LS1 that has complely eliminated the piston slap in my engine. To me that means less wear obviously and in order to eliminate piston slap it has got to be clinging to the metal parts which would mean even further wear reduction on startup. Maybe I am off base there but its the only logical explanation I can come up with. I am so impressed thats why im switching everything to amsoil.


Thats good to know. I've never had an oil make a difference in sound. I've never owned a high performance car though either.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: johnd
A '99 isn't that bad, take the coil packs off first. I have a '97, plugs and wires were a 7 hour job. I had to drop both head pipes, the starter and the alternator.


I know all about the LT1. I traded a 97 T/A in on this 99 SS. The T/A had 79K when I traded it in. I never even bothered to attempt the plugs on it. Figured as long as she was running good then i would leave it alone LOL. I did have to do the water pump. I caught it seaping at the weep hole in time before it damaged the opti spark thank god. That project took me about 2 1/2 hours.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
Help I have gone amsoil crazy



Good ..maybe it's contagious

I'll tell ya this SSO is the first oil I have ever used in my LS1 that has complely eliminated the piston slap in my engine. To me that means less wear obviously and in order to eliminate piston slap it has got to be clinging to the metal parts which would mean even further wear reduction on startup. Maybe I am off base there but its the only logical explanation I can come up with. I am so impressed thats why im switching everything to amsoil.


Thats good to know. I've never had an oil make a difference in sound. I've never owned a high performance car though either.


Some engines like the LS1 are known for start up piston slap. Some of them do it and others dont. Mine did it a little till the engine was fully warm. With M1 it would still be audible in bank lines and such even if it was 100 outside and the car was fully warmed up. With PP it was a little better at start up and went 100% away once fully warm. With the SSO its completely gone. I never dreamed an oil would quiet it down to the point you cant even hear it. Really makes me wonder whats different about the different oils that would change the piston slap? Only thing I can think of is some oils "cling" to parts better than others.

 

[06VtecV6]

Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
2 weeks ago I changed to amsoil SSO and EaO filter and just now I placed an order for the air filter, ATF for the 6 speed manual, severe gear oil for the rear and the limited slip additive. Also just ordered msd wires and NGK TR55 plugs to do a tuneup.

Looks like this weekend will be busy!

Anybody in the maryland area with LONG SKINNY arms wanna help me change the plugs on the passengers side of my 99 SS camaro?

If you were an eskimo and Pablo was selling ice, you would buy.

I guess you plan on trying to keep your car until, not only it stop running reliably, but until all the electronics rust and rot out. Me, my car will be traded in for a new one for Amsoil to really be of any use.. Same goes for any oil only Paris Hilton can afford.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
2 weeks ago I changed to amsoil SSO and EaO filter and just now I placed an order for the air filter, ATF for the 6 speed manual, severe gear oil for the rear and the limited slip additive. Also just ordered msd wires and NGK TR55 plugs to do a tuneup.

Looks like this weekend will be busy!

Anybody in the maryland area with LONG SKINNY arms wanna help me change the plugs on the passengers side of my 99 SS camaro?

If you were an eskimo and Pablo was selling ice, you would buy.

I guess you plan on trying to keep your car until, not only it stop running reliably, but until all the electronics rust and rot out. Me, my car will be traded in for a new one for Amsoil to really be of any use.. Same goes for any oil only Paris Hilton can afford.



Actually I have my own business account with amsoil and get the stuff at the same price or cheaper than actual amsoil dealers. My car is paid for and in mint condition. I want it to last untill I am sick and tired of it. That may be 2 more years or it may be 15 years. I drive it less than 10,000 a year so the SSO will allow me once a year oil changes. Thats what I was really shooting for with amsoil. Once i chane the trans fluid and rear end fluid I will likely never touch them again as long as I own the car.

In other words it will be easier for me to run amsoil than it would conventional oil or other brand synthetic. I hate the task of getting my car up in the air. I own and operate a lawn care company and the last thing I want to do when I get home or on the weekends is work on my car.

 

[dailydriver]

Not exactly "paper' blocker rings in the T56, but a cellulose composite type material which is VERY sensitive/effected negatively by certain synthetic fluids (unlike most other more 'pedestrian' gearboxes that most on here are used to).
But the results/effects are varied/inconclusive on this as well.
Some have used Red Line D4 for many years of hard use with supposedly great results/no ill effects, while others have had to rebuild their T56es after 1 week's use with the same fluid!!

I personally tried the RP Synchromax fluid and the thing just would NOT shift worth a d***!!

I've been wanting to try the Amsoil (either the ATF, OR the MTF), but was afraid to given my results with the RP.
So far, the Mobil 1 ATF seems fine (recommended by many T56 rebuilders/specialists as being the most 'benign' synthetic out there).
Does anyone know just how different the Amsoil and Mobil 1 formulations are (add packs, PAO/POE base content, etc.)???

BTW ProStreet, I take for granted that you still have the stock Torsen T2 diff in the '99?
If so, you are good to go with the Severe Gear (I wish I could use that stuff!!).
IF you swapped that out for a cone/clutch type diff (Auburn, Eaton, etc.) you MUST use a mineral based gear oil!!

on the plug change!!
Exactly why I went with the much more expensive NGK IX Iridiums!!

 

[Patman]

When I had my 98 Firebird Formula, it took me over 2 hours to do the first spark plug change, but once I did it a few more times and figured out all the tricks I got that time down to under 45 minutes. The last plug on the passenger side was definitely tricky, but having thin forearms definitely helped me a lot!

The plugs on my C5 are super easy! I used to change the plugs every six months when I first got it (using NGK coppers), but on my last plug change I went with NGK iridiums, so I'll leave them in for 40 or 50k before changing them.

I feel sorry for anyone wanting to do a plug change on their LT1 f-body! I paid a friend of mine to do it, and it took him 7 hours to do 7 of the 8 plugs and he couldn't get the last one out, so I paid a dealer $150 to do it (they had to remove the alternator to get at it) What a PITA! Who designed these things anyhow?

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver


BTW ProStreet, I take for granted that you still have the stock Torsen T2 diff in the '99?
If so, you are good to go with the Severe Gear (I wish I could use that stuff!!).
IF you swapped that out for a cone/clutch type diff (Auburn, Eaton, etc.) you MUST use a mineral based gear oil!!

on the plug change!!
Exactly why I went with the much more expensive NGK IX Iridiums!!

Yeah my ss is all stock except for the catback, shifter and lid. I dont drive it very hard very often so the stock rear is holding up well so far. Now my other car on the other hand has a moser spool, moser axles and moser pro series 4.56 gears

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Patman
I feel sorry for anyone wanting to do a plug change on their LT1 f-body! I paid a friend of mine to do it, and it took him 7 hours to do 7 of the 8 plugs and he couldn't get the last one out, so I paid a dealer $150 to do it (they had to remove the alternator to get at it) What a PITA! Who designed these things anyhow?


A devout SADIST!!

Whereas (just like the LS1 in your C5, only more so), the same LT1/4 engine's plug change in the 'clamshell' C4 Vettes was a breeze!

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

WHEW the nightmare is over! All 8 plugs and wires are DONE thank god. Now my big gorrila paws and arms are all scraped up and sore.

About to go get a diff gasket to change to severe gear in the rear and going to change the M6 ATF also.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Now my big gorrila paws and arms are all scraped up and sore.


One of the main reasons that people of like physical composition abandoned automotive wrenching as a career path. A daily trip to the meat grinder is not a natural act and the work arounds are too time consuming for a good productivity level. Air tools can compensate for a good bit of it ..but physical space limitations have only so many trump cards for you to have up your sleeve.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
Now my big gorrila paws and arms are all scraped up and sore.


One of the main reasons that people of like physical composition abandoned automotive wrenching as a career path. A daily trip to the meat grinder is not a natural act and the work arounds are too time consuming for a good productivity level. Air tools can compensate for a good bit of it ..but physical space limitations have only so many trump cards for you to have up your sleeve.


I agree. I am very good with cars so much so I can build any race engine you could dream of but when it comes to tight spaces it is hard for me.

BTW I just got done doing the amsoil ATF in the M6 and severe gear in the rear end. Gotta love the smell of gear oil.