Help finding the the worst oil? Group 1?

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Roland

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I'm looking for a oil that sucks. I think something like a group 1 Oil, if it is still being sold.

I want to do a treatment with RVS and first treatment works best with bad/old oil. Problem is Ive been using Great Oil that is a 15-40. when this high mileage van calls for 5-30.

So i need a recommendation for a bad oil that may cause a little more heat/fiction than standard oils.
 
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Autozone sells [censored] motor oil that says something like don't use in cars newer than 1988. I don't remember anymore specifics.
 
So ask for "cencored" oil? LOL. (is that a function of the forum that it sensors name brands?)

So just read labels looking for oil for cars before 1988?
 
Maybe the ACCEL sold at walmart as SE/SF. Group 1 has good lubicating properties though - just tend to leave more deposits and evap a % off more readily. I would say an oil that sucks would be castrol 10w-40 or peak 10w-40 and of course M1 with 8x more wear than ??? PAO is a bad lubricant base.
 
You want no ZDDP? Bar and Chain oil - or just USP grade mineral oil from the drug store. I can drain the oil out of my mower - It's probably well spent. Maybe you could go by a quick change oil place and get some out of the old ladys' car that has 10,000 mile and over a year on Kendall or Wolfshead.
 
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If you go with an older formulation you are more likely to notice build-up and coking than noticing difference in friction. I am curious if ATF may give you friction without high wear.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You want no ZDDP? Bar and Chain oil - or just USP grade mineral oil from the drug store.


They do mention basic mineral oil. But i did not think they were talking about the clear mineral oil in the drug stores. Would that be OK?
 
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How about motor oil from the 99cent store?

I have never actually picked up a quart to look at the lable but that must be pretty bad right?
 
Just pick up any Mobil 1 oil other than their 0w-40.....just kidding, go to a 7-11 store or similar outlet, I have seen some serious outdated products in dusty bottles on their shelves
 
I cant believe an additive wants bad oil in the case. I can understand low additive package to not have competing chemistries. In this case i would use SA oil and mix it with MMO or something. However this would thin oil and more friction I would think comes from a thicker opil. Look for non detergent 30 weight oil. Its a tad more sluggish under 40 degrees F. Why introduce dirt from another engine that could very well be wearing a different way adding other abrasives and metals that wont get filtered out the first drain?
 
Originally Posted By: getnpsi
I cant believe an additive wants bad oil in the case. I can understand low additive package to not have competing chemistries. In this case i would use SA oil and mix it with MMO or something. However this would thin oil and more friction I would think comes from a thicker opil. Look for non detergent 30 weight oil. Its a tad more sluggish under 40 degrees F. Why introduce dirt from another engine that could very well be wearing a different way adding other abrasives and metals that wont get filtered out the first drain?

Its not really an additive per say. It a coating like ceramic that happens where heat takes place. I've heard good things about it. I used a similar ceramic product a few mounths back, it worked great at first, raised compression, and lowered oil consumption. But 6 weeks later the compression went back down to orginal, and oil consumption started creepying back up. (still better than before but... and i used very good oil). So this time I'm trying RVS with a [censored] oil.

Is that Walmart oil non detergant?
 
Hey Arcographite, the name jogged my memory from way back, If my memory serves me right(30 years maybe) couldn't you throw that oil in with some of the worst ever if it was still around? Wasn't it like black out of the bottle,or maybe can?
 
The website tries really hard to explain the science behind the product, but I think a lot is exaggerated and some of it is just plain silly. $60 is a bit steep for a product that will most likely not work permanently, if at all. The bearings are coated with a soft metal. Debris and some wear products will imbed into the bearing material, and I'm not sure it can be cleaned out.

A couple of years ago I gave in to the hype and tried militec - similar to what the OP is using - with zero results. If I drive aggressively I burn a quart every 3k, none if I drive like a gramma.

It seems strange to risk your motor with an older cert'd oil to potentially gain some compression or slow oil consumption. Maybe save the money you save on using cheaper SM-rated oil w/ out adds to pay for a rebuild. I don't mean to tell any one how to spend his/her money. Just trying to help. Happy New Year!!!
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
The website tries really hard to explain the science behind the product, but I think a lot is exaggerated and some of it is just plain silly. $60 is a bit steep for a product that will most likely not work permanently, if at all. The bearings are coated with a soft metal. Debris and some wear products will imbed into the bearing material, and I'm not sure it can be cleaned out.

A couple of years ago I gave in to the hype and tried militec - similar to what the OP is using - with zero results. If I drive aggressively I burn a quart every 3k, none if I drive like a gramma.

It seems strange to risk your motor with an older cert'd oil to potentially gain some compression or slow oil consumption. Maybe save the money you save on using cheaper SM-rated oil w/ out adds to pay for a rebuild. I don't mean to tell any one how to spend his/her money. Just trying to help. Happy New Year!!!


I appreciate your concern, I definitely dont have money to wastes. I researched this very thoroughly, and got a lot of first hand feedback before... I think the mistake i made besides using a good new oil, was going with Fussion Tech a cheaper clone company instaed of RVS. Even so those result did prove that it worked, to a point. One of my engines needed to be replaced a long time ago. Blue Devil for the cracked head/blown head gasket, and the Fusion Tech for the 1 quart per 250 miles, oil consumption (now 700 mile per quart, the first 2000 miles after treatment only added 1 quart) Anyway that engine had nothing to loose. There where other noticeable differences in both vans i put it in. You can say that the one engine is from a bottle at this point. If that 5.7 engine did not run so well id probablely not try so hard to keep it going. One or two hundred bucks to get another 20-40,000 more mile out of an engine is not bad in my book. Time will tell.

Thanks all Happy New Year
 
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