Hello guys, Im new and want some information

[zulf200]

This may sound like a basic question but here goes.

I repacked the wheel bearings of my car, an old mercedes - The grease I used was valvoline cerulean that I bought at NAPA, the TDS seems quite nice and it has a GC-LB rating too.

This grease is sort of stringy e.g. if you apply a dab on your thumb and pull it away it will become strings. I have been told that such wheel bearings require a butter texture grease or something that is soft as NLGI2 but does not string. The TDS of cerulean says texture as "smooth and tacky"

I read on this site that extra tacky grease is bad for such timken bearings as it can cause drag, but am a bit lost because nearly all automotive purpose greases are tacky.

Has someone tried this grease? or can explain me my question

 

[Donald]

Tacky grease is designed for spline shafts so it does not get flung off. But its fine for other purposes.

Mainly wheel bearing needs to be able to withstand high speed and hot.

In olden times there was wheel bearing grease and chassis grease. Now I think one does it all.

Did you pack the bearing with a wad of grease in your palm?

 

[JHZR2]

What kind of Mercedes?

MB gives specific recommendations for approach and mass required for use in the bearings.

MB sells a green grease specifcally for this application and it comes in a nice sealed pouch.

Here is a DIY:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontPadsRotors

Note that they do not use a dial gauge. You ABSOLUTELY should use a dial gauge to set runout in order to have bearing tightness correct. If not,you will have issues.

 

[Tempest]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Here is a DIY:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontPadsRotors

Note that they do not use a dial gauge. You ABSOLUTELY should use a dial gauge to set runout in order to have bearing tightness correct. If not,you will have issues.

Looks very similar to the bearing setup in my Ranger. I've never used a gauge when reassembling. Just snug it up and back it off by about an 1/8 turn or so. I think there is a spec in the book. Over 150K on factory bearings that have been regreased a few times.

Preload might be different on yours.

I also see no reason to weigh the grease. Just pack it in there and any excess will squeeze into the cavity between the bearings. I like to pack extra grease in the seal area to help keep junk out.

 

[Tempest]

Originally Posted By: zulf200


I repacked the wheel bearings of my car, an old mercedes - The grease I used was valvoline cerulean that I bought at NAPA, the TDS seems quite nice and it has a GC-LB rating too.




Quote:
Typical examples are disc and other wheel bearings, sleeve and anti-friction bearings, chassis, bucket and king pins, universal joints, couplings, crushers and vibratory rollers.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/grease/75

You should be fine. Stringy grease is not ideal but there is a whole range of what "stringy" is. Most greases have a little tackifier in them and will string to some extent.

Go to Autozone and take a look at the "Green Grease". THAT is a stringy grease.

 

[zulf200]

For packing I used the ball of grease on palm method - weighed the grease charge too like MB asks - it is just enough to coat the hub to the level of the races - I think its done to take advantage of the centrifugal force throwing grease oils outwards into the bearings or something like that.

The spec of axial play is 0.01-0.02mm and upto 0.05mm as max tolerance. I did use the dial gauge.

I consulted a very old MB mechanic who told me to use an adjustable wrench and crank that nut down till either the hub gets hard to turn or the nut stops for initial tightening, loosen then smack the axle snout with a wood block and hammer, then crank down again and loosen , hand tighten gentle finger tight and back off the nut 3mm on the snout periphery.

I tested the technique and got about 0.04mm play but not repeatedly - once in about 4 tries. Dial gauge can get it perfect every time.

Anyway - I repacked because I removed the grease cap to see shiny waxed up hard grease in it (same in the hub) and some really spent blackish green grease in the bearings. In my head that is asking for disaster

MB specs for it are fulfilled by Chevron Starplex EP2 - I couldnt find that easily but the TDS comparison is quite similar to Valvoline cerulean. Anyone experienced the starplex EP2 grease? And where to get it retail or anything close to it.

to add - the wheels are running much cooler than before even after 60 miles - The car is a 95 E300D

p.s. I'll check the green grease, is it too stringy?

 

[SteveSRT8]

I have set truck front ends up by 'feel' for almost 30 years until we went to sealed hubs. Now we rarely do anything to them!

We always used Amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease once I discovered them. Far superior product especially in heavy duty truck applications subject to high temps and loads.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:
p.s. I'll check the green grease, is it too stringy?

They say you can use it in wheel bearings but I wouldn't. The stuff sticks like glue. More for ball joints or external applications.

 

[JHZR2]

The MB grease is like $7 for a tube. Id just buy it, weigh it out, do it right per the FSM. These bearings will last hundreds of thousands of miles and run much cooler when done right!