Headers on a Ford 460 Class A Motorhome?

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According to the linked SuperChevy article on exhaust you don't want to put a straight pipe instead of the resonator as that will effectively lengthen the secondary pipe length and change the power curve, likely for the worse.

Maybe I will just change the muffler for a Borla and see what happens. If it doesn't seem to help then I will get a second muffler for the resonator location.

Or better yet, why not put the muffler in where the resonator is and put the straight pipe instead of the muffler?
 
Ford 460 motors of this vintage are prone to breaking the manifold bolts
they have new bolts with a higher tensile strength and more Stretch.cost is about $180 for the 16 bolts
if you go this route be sure to have the manifold checked for true.
John
 
The broken manifold stud has been repaired on my motorhome. Manifold was slightly warped at that end (probably from the stud being broken), so he put a gasket on it and it sealed up fine. Cost was $375. Sounds good now.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
The broken manifold stud has been repaired on my motorhome. Manifold was slightly warped at that end (probably from the stud being broken), so he put a gasket on it and it sealed up fine. Cost was $375. Sounds good now.

Sounds much better than $2320.

cheers.gif
 
On my old Chrysler thirty-four years had elapsed since the manifold bolts were removed. I had a set of factory TNT high-flow cast-iron exhaust manifolds to install. Ran the tap through, buzzed the rust off with the Dremel around it and used factory studs to install. An appropriate amount of anti-seize, of course (on the B/RB Chrysler, one has to seal off coolant in at least two holes as I recall so there may have been another chemical thread locker or sealant). And marine-grade stainless nuts with brass washers to make removal easier in the future.

Torque value never changed after initial run-in.

Are you going to change out the muffler?
 
It has no catalytic converter, just a resonator and muffler. I would like to ditch the resonator and install a low restriction muffler. Since I have read the secondary pipe length is important to the power curve, I am inclined to put the new muffler where the resonator is and straight pipe where the existing muffler is.

Will do if I am convinced it will reduce back pressure as that will improve power, and more important, put less stress on the exhaust manifold gasket where the warp is.
 
Definitely. The other $1945 can go to paying off the note.

Hopefully it does not blow out the gasket since it was slightly warped at that end. Well, if it does, he said he put copious amounts of anti-seize on the bolts.
 
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