HDEO for d.i. worth it?

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Each vehihcle in the signiture comes with a Hyundai recommendation to use API SM. What if any benefits would an HDEO offer a d.i. application? More spcifically: Sonata 2.4 10w30 Synthetic Blends Delo 400 XLE Rotella T5 Valvoline Premium Blue Santa fe Sport 2.0T 5w40 Synthetic Rotella T6 Delo 400 LE Mobil1 TDT
 
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wemay

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Your better off with Mobil 1 0W40 whichwwilloprobably have less deposits.
I think you're right where the 2.0T is concerned, 0w40 in either Castrol or M1. There was a time when I first used that viscosity where I felt it made the vehicle a little sluggish but that wore off rather quickly. Mind tricks I believe.
 
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Well, I'm kind of inexperienced overall in regards to motor oils; but from what I have seen out of VWvortex and other european car forums, the VAG's fsi/tsi 2.0ts and BMW's N54 engines killed M1 0w40's TBN and viscosity range. The UOAs don't disclose alot, but it seems they revealed Mobil 1 0w40 trended towards loosing much of its TBN within 5,000 miles; which I guess is okay for if you are doing short change intervals. For as prestigious as Mobil 1 0w40 is supposed to be, I wouldn't be surprised if it could still protect the euro engines. For as to why it looses its TBN so fast: Some of the Euro-car enthusiast believe its because of 0w40's wide viscosity range not withstanding the fuel dilution issues that all of the Euro DI engines were notorious for. I mean, it might even be the same in the newer engines that don't have it as bad.... Fortunately for you ,I guess, you have a nice Korean make that probably won't slaughter the oil.... P.S If I am wrong in any kind of way, then never mind me...I'm still just a beginner in all of this
 
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wemay

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Originally Posted By: MichaelDCRogers
Well, I'm kind of inexperienced overall in regards to motor oils; but from what I have seen out of VWvortex and other european car forums, the VAG's fsi/tsi 2.0ts and BMW's N54 engines killed M1 0w40's TBN and viscosity range. The UOAs don't disclose alot, but it seems they revealed Mobil 1 0w40 trended towards loosing much of its TBN within 5,000 miles; which I guess is okay for if you are doing short change intervals. For as prestigious as Mobil 1 0w40 is supposed to be, I wouldn't be surprised if it could still protect the euro engines. For as to why it looses its TBN so fast: Some of the Euro-car enthusiast believe its because of 0w40's wide viscosity range not withstanding the fuel dilution issues that all of the Euro DI engines were notorious for. I mean, it might even be the same in the newer engines that don't have it as bad.... So far so good. Plus, Hyundai's max OCI on these vehicles are 5k miles for the 2.0T and 7.5k miles for the 2.4. I go 4k with both. Fortunately for you ,I guess, you have a nice Korean make that probably won't slaughter the oil.... P.S If I am wrong in any kind of way, then never mind me...I'm still just a beginner in all of this
 

wemay

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To late to edit previous entry... So far so good. Plus, Hyundai's max OCI on these vehicles are 5k miles for the 2.0T and 7.5k miles for the 2.4. I go 4k with both.
 
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Where are these UOAs at? Mobil 1 0w40 holds up better than anything in recent memory as far as TBN retention. The viscosity is allowed to drop below the 40 grade range since the car is spec'd for a 30 grade and the M1 0w40 is on the ligher range of 40.
 
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I'm sorry, I meant to say those UOAs, the few I could find, showed Mobil 1 0w40 loosing its TBN within 2,000 miles for the FSI and N54 engines.....
 
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Originally Posted By: MichaelDCRogers
I'm sorry, I meant to say those UOAs, the few I could find, showed Mobil 1 0w40 loosing its TBN within 2,000 miles for the FSI and N54 engines.....
welcome To BITOG! just be careful what you say about Mobil 1 cheers
 

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Originally Posted By: MichaelDCRogers
I'm sorry, I meant to say those UOAs, the few I could find, showed Mobil 1 0w40 loosing its TBN within 2,000 miles for the FSI and N54 engines.....
Losing its TBN? The only one I could find for the N54 didn't have TBN tested shrug http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3102931 The GC 0w-30 has a TBN of 4.1 after 6,000 miles as per another UOA (same engine). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1434918 RLI Biosyn 5w-40 was down to 1.7 after 8,000 miles: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2782801 Redline 5w-30 had a TBN of 3.3 after 5,000 miles: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2326431 The engine seems to generally beat up the oil, but of the above only the RLI oil wouldn't have been fit for continued service IMHO.
 
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Fuel dilution isn't a problem unless flashpoint is super low and wear is up. Fuel dilution by itself isn't dangerous, but it can become dangerous if owners run a thin oil to begin with and push extended OCI that result in low visc and increased wear. The best thing for fuel dilution is more frequent changes.
 

wemay

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Originally Posted By: jrustles
I'd run the Delo 400E. SO make that a vote for Rotella lol.
Hey jrustles, not sure i follow...
 
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Wemay, what is your goal? Do you want to run those engines for 300,000 miles? Maybe a higher quality oil is worth the money, and maybe not. Get a different car in 80,000 - 100,000 miles? No point in a different oil. What is the warranty on those? Currently Hyundai/Kia offers 10 years or 100,000 miles on the powertrain to the original owner, using the recommended oil and recommended oil drain intervals. If their money is backing that, that means something significant. So, if you really want to upgrade the oil, use a top quality syn 10W-30 (in your climate) in the 2.4 for the full oil drain recommendation, and a top quality 5W-40 European-spec gasoline engine oil in the 2.0T for the full interval. Kendall, Pennz, and others make top 5W-40 and 0W-40 gas engine oils. Or use the cheapest oil that adequately meets the spec and cut the drain intervals in half. If fuel dilution is your concern, a top oil and a cheap oil are equally poor when diluted.
 

wemay

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Originally Posted By: Ken2
Wemay, what is your goal? Do you want to run those engines for 300,000 miles? Maybe a higher quality oil is worth the money, and maybe not. Get a different car in 80,000 - 100,000 miles? No point in a different oil. What is the warranty on those? Currently Hyundai/Kia offers 10 years or 100,000 miles on the powertrain to the original owner, using the recommended oil and recommended oil drain intervals. If their money is backing that, that means something significant. So, if you really want to upgrade the oil, use a top quality syn 10W-30 (in your climate) in the 2.4 for the full oil drain recommendation, and a top quality 5W-40 European-spec gasoline engine oil in the 2.0T for the full interval. Kendall, Pennz, and others make top 5W-40 and 0W-40 gas engine oils. Or use the cheapest oil that adequately meets the spec and cut the drain intervals in half. If fuel dilution is your concern, a top oil and a cheap oil are equally poor when diluted.
Thanks Ken2, No specific goal, just kicking the can around and getting other's opinions on HDEO and it's merits where it comes to these direct injection applications. I really have no issue with the Castrol currently coarsing thru the eingines though. My OCi is 4k for both so anything meeting spec will probably do. thanks for the advise. 10w30 for the 2.4 has always been an option since the car is also spec'd for it. But you are correct, 100K mile warranty is nothing to sneeze at. And if they are confident enougn with their spec of SM/GF-5, i should be too.
 
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386
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I'm going to be sending out my current fill of PUE 5W-40 to Blackstone next Saturday. We're going to get a good idea of how it looks after 5k miles of turbo DI engine. The last month has been brutal, stop and go traffic every day. I checked it yesterday, the level was fine, the color was fine and it didn't smell of fuel that much. Viscosity might be low since I used PU 5W-30 last time around. I'm trying M1 0W-40 next.
 
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