Havoline not glued together well?

[mechtech]

I use Havoline 5w30, but put in Motorcraft 5-20 for the winter. LC20 with both.
I noticed that my PVC catch can doesn't fill nearly as fast with the thinner Motorcraft.
I never have to add oil - there is very minute usage.
I don't want to see this. I want to like my Havoline.
I know that this is not a scientific test.
Anybody have any input about this?

 

[Pablo]

Havoline does have relatively higher NOACK numbers, but the blow by oil you see could easily be influenced by driving style and temperatures.

What volume delta are we talking about?

 

[Johnny]

If you like Havoline, use their 5W20. What kind of car are we talking about here. How many miles and what is your OCI.

 

[Ray H]

"Havoline not glued together well?" That's why responsible blenders add paraffin wax to motor oil. The sign of a great oil is defined by a healthy layer of gritty, gooey sludge all over everything internally - protects bare metal against the ravages of rust, too. Always look for API "SA" rated motor oil 'cause everyone with half a brain knows that an "A" rating is a sure sign of the highest possible quality.

(Don'cha all just love BITOG posters' tendency to use leading, suggestive wording in their post titling?

)

 

[wavinwayne]

API "SA" is definitely the best. I use it in everything. "SA" stand for Sans Additives, which means it's 100% pure oil. Anybody who knows anything about oil knows you don't want additives in oil. The more additives, the less oil. That can't be good.

 

[G-MAN]

Just to try and get this back on a more serious note, I wonder how well SA oil would do if you used 6 oz of LC and only ran it for 1000 miles?

 

[XB70]

Because Ray and Wayne have let slip some inside information, I feel comfortable in revealing another secret.

"SA" is an abbreviation for South Africa, and there are diamond mines in South Africa, so all the cool, hip oil insiders know that if an oil proudly wears the "SA" label, well, that's code for "diamond in the rough", and despite the disinformation campaign that's been waged for years to keep the general public from buying this quality brew, savvy insiders will hoard this stuff worse than your most passionate green GC fanatic.

Honest.

 

[Matt89]

Yeah, I think running the Havoline 5W-20 vs the Motorcraft 5W-20 is the only good way to compare.

 

[Volvohead]

In a '31 Ford, SA with LC would probably do nicely. But in a modern engine, I don't think the LC is going to do all that much to help an SA.

One of my mechanic buds related a story some years ago of a customer with an early '80s K car who brought it in for oil changes and absolutely insisted that they use his oil, which was ancient quart bottles of Pitt Penn or some such small blender's API-SA oil. The guy insisted on using this for years, despite being told otherwise. But the car kept running, even though all the mechanics were terrified to ever have to pop the valve cover on it. Then one day he stopped coming around. Perhaps like the Blob, the sludge monster crept out of the crankcase and ate him.

 

[pitzel]

XB70, sludge and diamonds are both made of the same element in the periodic table. I think you are onto something!

 

[mechtech]

Pablo - 'volume delta' is about 3 times the amount.
Delta Volume is a stripper.

 

[Rand]

Delta volume is the correct term

stripper or no

 

[Pablo]

That's a huge volume difference. I don't think it's just the oil. Has this phenomena repeated over several OCI's, or are you just comparing 2 data points?

 

[GoldenRod]

I'm going to have to Google "Delta Volume" and see what I come up with.

 

[GoldenRod]

I didn't get no strippers.

 

[mechtech]

I needed to empty the half full [small Home Depot air line water separator] every week or so.
There is just a little colllecting there now - 1/4 to 1/3 as much.

8,000 miles on the Hav, and 2,000 on the Motorcraft.
The crankcse level never seems to change, either way. 03 Ford zx2 2.0 - perfectly clean in and out.