Havoline/MC 5k/Formula Shell

Pennzoil motor oil
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Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock


Again, please post it (the evidence, that is). Everything I'm seeing demonstrates how well Toyota engines run on just about any oil you put in there. Yes, I know, you blew yours up; that's one anecdotal example. If you have a preponderance of evidence, I'd love to read it. I have not seen such evidence.
Thats what I thought too! I'm trying hard to keep my Yaris running good, which has a similar engine to yours. Most advanced oil guys on YARISWORLD run PP with purolator prem filter. I was running wix and Motul 8100 (good all round), Synpower 10w30 (low mileage/power), 5w30 Syntec (excessive noise start and hot, vibration, decent power, mileage), RT10w30 + Purolator Prem (quiet start and run, decent power/mileage). Maybe you can PM me on what you run in your 1.8L :)
 
No need for PMs, I'll offer it out here in public!
wink.gif
Based on the experiences of folks here like Bill in Utah, Tripleseven, Archimedes, and others, with their 1ZZ-FE engines, I've gone to using $1/qt Havoline DS I scored at Walmart in it. I've used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 before, the bulk Toyota 5W-20, Chevron Supreme 5w30, and now Havoline DS 5w30. I think the Chevron and Havoline are the exact same oil.

I've run both 3,000 and 5,000 mile OCIs. I put about 10,000 miles a year on it on my commute. My overall average fuel consumption is 35.60 MPG. It's an '07 Corolla LE with the 5-speed manual. Even with good tires, it'll bark rubber into 2nd gear. I was impressed when it did that...wasn't expecting such a grabby clutch in an econobox.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
We constantly see shearing out of grade in UOA. This is a most basic lubricant failure. A lot of folks here think 30 weight cars will run on 20wt - I do not.


There are plenty of people who run their 30w engines on 20w oil with NO issues. Even if a 5w30 engine shears to a 5w20 it has no affect on engine wear and it most certainly doesn't lead to engine failure.

One reason I say for people with really really old engines with lots of mileage to use 10w30 as it is able to stay closer in grade than its 5w30 cousin.
 
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Originally Posted By: GMFan
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
We constantly see shearing out of grade in UOA. This is a most basic lubricant failure. A lot of folks here think 30 weight cars will run on 20wt - I do not.


There are plenty of people who run their 30w engines on 20w oil with NO issues. Even if a 5w30 engine shears to a 5w20 it has no affect on engine wear and it most certainly doesn't lead to engine failure.

One reason I say for people with really really old engines with lots of mileage to use 10w30 as it is able to stay closer in grade than its 5w30 cousin.

On every engine I tried 20wt it sounded as if it would explode any second. Excessive, Rap, slap, tap. Low power, high fuel dilution LOWER fuel economy. I could care less about "everyone else" which is absolute balogna. Owner's manuals on ALL cars ive owned state that "to provide adequate engine protection under severe service requires HIGHER oil grade than the fuel conserving oil specified - see your service center for more information." We drive like we stole it. You cannot toss off viscosity as being unimportant - correct viscosity is the MOST important primary quality of the lubricant. And most people are absolutly clueless as to the running condition/ quality of their cars. Ive worked as a NIASE MASTER Foreigen and Domestic tech in the 70's and 80s and I am well aware of the typical american clueless driver which is about 90% of US.
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I'm, pretty sure he'll inform you of the saw-dust and 75W-90 Supertech mix...


lol, seriously? I guess I haven't been reading enough posts lately. Too funny
 
I think he started out as sort of a normal poster when I first noticed him here when I started posting again. But I think he's gotten bored...

Every post seems to be silly, oddball argument poop...
 
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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I think he started out as sort of a normal poster when I first noticed him here when I started posting again. But I think he's gotten bored...

Every post seems to be silly, oddball argument poop...
I see no logical arguments form you, sir. Maybe Helen would like to know about your violation of forum rules?
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
ARCO, what do you run in your Forester... engine, transmission and diff?
The forester has a fill of rotella T 10w30 for summer and fall. Diff and trans are factory fill. I am still undecided on what to run in the winter.
This engine is easy on the oil have no tappets or cam chain and a rollerised valvetrain. The Pistons are prone to slap though, given the short-skirt design and a ridiculously oversquare bore/stroke ratio.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: webfors
ARCO, what do you run in your Forester... engine, transmission and diff?
The forester has a fill of rotella T 10w30 for summer and fall. Diff and trans are factory fill. I am still undecided on what to run in the winter.
This engine is easy on the oil have no tappets or cam chain and a rollerised valvetrain. The Pistons are prone to slap though, given the short-skirt design and a ridiculously oversquare bore/stroke ratio.


You could probably run that Rotella T 10w30 throughout the winter too. I remember researching it before and talked about it with another very knowledgeable member and concluded that it has great winter cold flow as well. It has a pour point of -30, IIRC.
 
With all the talk of Redline lately I've been looking at it's 5w30 as an alternative to a 40 weight.

Arco, swap out the rear diff soon. My FF was in rough shape at only 10k miles. I've been using Motul Gear 300 and just changed the rear diff out after 20k miles and I could of left that fluid in for much much longer. No shrapnel on the magnet this time like the FF and the fluid looked perfect.
 
Shearing down to a lower grade is not going to kill your engine when you do regular Oci's. You can use most any SM rated oil and change using common sense and be fine. Sure you have to keep watch on things like pcv valves, plugs and whatever. With normal sensible driving any of the three oil's mentioned by the OP will work fine. Whatever you feel comfortable with and sleep well at night. I disagree that 90% of the public is clueless about maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe


You could probably run that Rotella T 10w30 throughout the winter too. I remember researching it before and talked about it with another very knowledgeable member and concluded that it has great winter cold flow as well. It has a pour point of -30, IIRC.


Pour is -40 f/c actually - indicates a good base stock. been getting great 35deg F cold start's, NP; spins the starter faster than syntec or synpower and only 1/2 a crank till it fires!
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
I think he started out as sort of a normal poster when I first noticed him here when I started posting again. But I think he's gotten bored...

Every post seems to be silly, oddball argument poop...
I see no logical arguments form you, sir. Maybe Helen would like to know about your violation of forum rules?


Based on our last 100 posts, I'm pretty sure Helen could figure out who was trolling and intentionally being randomly silly and who wasn't.

Secondly, I'm one of at least two or more posters who've called out your left-field comments and boasts. So, feel free to turn me in, kiddo...

But you ain't fooling anybody with little gems like this: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rotella-t-cured-my-transaxle-clunk.117744/
 
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