Havoline/MC 5k/Formula Shell

[GMFan]

Hello all,

The local store where I buy my oil now has the same everyday prices on Havoline DS, Mobil Clean 5000 & Formula Shell per case. Considering they are equal cost, which ones do you believe have the upper hand in terms of add pack, cold flow properties, TBN retention etc.

I'd like to keep facts in the discussion if possible so please provide a fact/reason for the suggestion you make.

I plan on buying in 5w30 and using it as the fleet oil for the vehicles in my house.

Thank you.

 

[LS2JSTS]

The pour point of the Havoline appears a bit better by about 3-7 degrees.

But the Havoline is also a bit lighter at operating temps.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Looks like you are trying to get US to do the work. Now get to work!

shell 5w is 6600cP at -30c - not the lightest by far but moot point.
m 5000 5w is 5900 at -30c, and the mrv is about 1/2 the shell at 20,000 cp. NOTE: long wax is a good lubricant at OPERATING temp.

 

[ThirdeYe]

I would choose the Havoline. I've used it three times in my car and I like it. Plus I like how it starts thin and it's very good in winter as well.

 

[StevieC]

I would choose Formula Shell or MC-5000

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
shell 5w is 6600cP at -30c - not the lightest by far but moot point.
m 5000 5w is 5900 at -30c, and the mrv is about 1/2 the shell at 20,000 cp. NOTE: long wax is a good lubricant at OPERATING temp.


Havoline is 5400 cP at -30C
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS30535645.PDF

I'd go with the Havoline, nice add pack too.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I would use a professional equipment oil.

 

[GMFan]

professional equipment oil? You mean HDEO?

I do like the fact that the Havoline is a little thinner, especially for the winter months.

Thickness wise Formula Shell > Mobil Clean 5000 > Havoline

 

[Alex38]

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I would choose the Havoline. I've used it three times in my car and I like it. Plus I like how it starts thin and it's very good in winter as well.


I'd also go with the Havoline, about to put their 5w30 in my truck!

 

[Ragin_Diesel]

I guess depending on wha the everyday low price is I would choose Havoline also. Depending on the price though you may consider looking at Motorcraft semi syn 5-30. The package is very good as is the price.

 

[hpichris]

MC5000

 

[ARCOgraphite]

MC5000 does run like you just put something special in your sump. Shears to water in no time though - could never get 5000 out of it with the vis going under grade. Same with Castrol.
But I would only run an HDEO in a Toyota 4 - they are oil eaters with the chain and the buckets.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
But I would only run an HDEO in a Toyota 4 - they are oil eaters with the chain and the buckets.


Too many UOAs say otherwise.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Given the oil filter removes abnormal wear paticulate, how would the UOA tell-tale? We've just seen completely failed engines with normal UOA reports. I would agree you can see shearing out of grade.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Given the oil filter removes abnormal wear paticulate, how would the UOA tell-tale? We've just seen completely failed engines with normal UOA reports. I would agree you can see shearing out of grade.


You said that Toyota 4s are "oil eaters". I'd like to see examples of this. If, as you state, UOAs don't prove your point, what does?

If you have examples of expired engines, demonstrated to be oil-related, with a good history of clean UOAs, I'd like to see that also. I agree that UOA reports aren't the end-all be-all. But I would suspect that a solid UOA history with a modern PCMO followed by a failed engine due to a lubrication problem would be HIGHLY out of the ordinary.

 

[addyguy]

Given that choice, I'd definetly go with the Havoline. Very, very advanced dino oil with a great add-pack....

 

[ARCOgraphite]

We constantly see shearing out of grade in UOA. This is a most basic lubricant failure. A lot of folks here think 30 weight cars will run on 20wt - I do not. Next: you can have expenditure of the EP additisation without any telltale signature on a UOA. You are asking for data that ONLY the car manufactureres have and possibly more than a few race shops.
I dont tear my engines down before I trade them in, just fill them with gooey oil and trade them at a despised local dealer. My arguments are based on the preponderance of evidence and deductive reasoning. And I'm not even Greek

 

[Mark72]

But Pennzoil is the most advanced of all with it's grp II+ base oil no? How do you figure which one has a more advanced additive package?

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You are asking for data that ONLY the car manufactureres have and possibly more than a few race shops.


Actually, I was asking for data that you surely have that support your statement and opinion that, in order, Toyota 4-cylinder engines are murder on oil, and that HDEO is a better choice. You made the statements that fly against all evidence that I've seen; the burden of proof is upon you.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
My arguments are based on the preponderance of evidence and deductive reasoning. And I'm not even Greek

I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm saying that what you're saying doesn't match with what I've seen/experienced.

Again, please post it (the evidence, that is). Everything I'm seeing demonstrates how well Toyota engines run on just about any oil you put in there. Yes, I know, you blew yours up; that's one anecdotal example. If you have a preponderance of evidence, I'd love to read it. I have not seen such evidence.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: Mark72
But Pennzoil is the most advanced of all with it's grp II+ base oil no?


Havoline is also a group II+ oil in 5W-20 and 5w30 grades. In fact, Chevron brought the first group II+ base oil to market with Chevron 5R.