I ran an OCI of the new Havoline "Deposit Shield" 20W50 in my 1994 Low Rider (Harley Davidson), with of course the Evolution engine.
I had been asked by some folks if I thought the new stuff would work as well as the old Havoline, and not being an expert at anything much more than my own opinion, I figured the only way to find out was to do a run of the new Havoline and see how it did.
Here is the report...
It sheared to a 40 weight. No fuel to explain the light viscosity... it just sheared. This engine has sheared every oil I've put into it, including a mix of two quarts 20W50 VR1 (Valvoline), and one quart straight 60 (sixty) weight VR1. You can see the old VR1 blend results here in the archives, or just look in the previous columns on this current report for the OCI which ran for 2751 miles, and that would be the VR1 OCI.
The most recent UOA (first column to the right of current UOA) was from Chevron's Supreme SL 20W50. It's supposed to be the same as Havoline, but the moly numbers don't jive. It still worked well, however...
I believe this Evolution engine may be more prone to shearing oil than the newer designs because of the cam gears. The newer designs use chains rather than gear drives, and they don't shear the oil so quickly. So I'm guessing it could be the gear gnashing that's thinning the oil.
I actually ran this oil for 3039 miles, rather than 3003 miles. I forgot that my speedometer cable had broken in Kentucky one day and I was 36 miles from the Pikeville Harley Davidson shop, where I found a replacement cable and fixed it in the parking lot.
Wear metals are still well under universal averages. The iron has bumped up a few points from the earlier UOA's, but it's still well under average, so I'm not concerned there. At 53,000 miles, the cam lobes are probably starting to wear a bit, which may explain the slightly higher iron numbers. I'm wondering if a heavier dose of zinc/phos would help here any... so maybe I'll try a blend of some sort for my next UOA.
The engine has the Chevron Supreme in it again now. I've still got a small stash of that stuff that went for about a buck a quart.
Bearings look great, which I'm thankful for. (low copper and lead)...
The additive pack on the new Havoline isn't a lot different than the old. If you look at the two oldest UOA's on this report, they're both from Havoline 20W50 in the SL rating.
We see some tweaks for the new Deposit Shield SM rated Havoline 20W50: more Calcium... more Sodium... less Boron... less Magnesium... 30 ppm of Potassium now (nearly none before)... a touch of Manganese... and Moly, Zinc, and Phosphorous are still about the same, and in good supply.
The PF53 AC Delco filter I chose to use worked very well also, even getting accolades from Blackstone. They're around 4 bucks or so at AutoZone, and the blue color matches the pin striping on my bike.
One thing seems readily apparent from all of these UOA's I've done, and that is that a 40 weight oil in these engines does seem more than capable of protecting the engine. I'm sure it must shear down fairly early in the UOA (I base this notion on what Sunruh has posted, showing that oils with a tendency to shear tend to do so pretty quickly)... but nonetheless these oils still protect well, even after shearing.
There are several UOA's of synthetic oils here which did not shear in basically the same application, but they protected less well, as evidenced by the higher wear metal numbers. If given the choice as to which one I'd like to look better at the end of an oil change intervall--the oil--or the engine... I'll take the engine every time...
Dan
I had been asked by some folks if I thought the new stuff would work as well as the old Havoline, and not being an expert at anything much more than my own opinion, I figured the only way to find out was to do a run of the new Havoline and see how it did.
Here is the report...
It sheared to a 40 weight. No fuel to explain the light viscosity... it just sheared. This engine has sheared every oil I've put into it, including a mix of two quarts 20W50 VR1 (Valvoline), and one quart straight 60 (sixty) weight VR1. You can see the old VR1 blend results here in the archives, or just look in the previous columns on this current report for the OCI which ran for 2751 miles, and that would be the VR1 OCI.
The most recent UOA (first column to the right of current UOA) was from Chevron's Supreme SL 20W50. It's supposed to be the same as Havoline, but the moly numbers don't jive. It still worked well, however...
I believe this Evolution engine may be more prone to shearing oil than the newer designs because of the cam gears. The newer designs use chains rather than gear drives, and they don't shear the oil so quickly. So I'm guessing it could be the gear gnashing that's thinning the oil.
I actually ran this oil for 3039 miles, rather than 3003 miles. I forgot that my speedometer cable had broken in Kentucky one day and I was 36 miles from the Pikeville Harley Davidson shop, where I found a replacement cable and fixed it in the parking lot.
Wear metals are still well under universal averages. The iron has bumped up a few points from the earlier UOA's, but it's still well under average, so I'm not concerned there. At 53,000 miles, the cam lobes are probably starting to wear a bit, which may explain the slightly higher iron numbers. I'm wondering if a heavier dose of zinc/phos would help here any... so maybe I'll try a blend of some sort for my next UOA.
The engine has the Chevron Supreme in it again now. I've still got a small stash of that stuff that went for about a buck a quart.
Bearings look great, which I'm thankful for. (low copper and lead)...
The additive pack on the new Havoline isn't a lot different than the old. If you look at the two oldest UOA's on this report, they're both from Havoline 20W50 in the SL rating.
We see some tweaks for the new Deposit Shield SM rated Havoline 20W50: more Calcium... more Sodium... less Boron... less Magnesium... 30 ppm of Potassium now (nearly none before)... a touch of Manganese... and Moly, Zinc, and Phosphorous are still about the same, and in good supply.
The PF53 AC Delco filter I chose to use worked very well also, even getting accolades from Blackstone. They're around 4 bucks or so at AutoZone, and the blue color matches the pin striping on my bike.
One thing seems readily apparent from all of these UOA's I've done, and that is that a 40 weight oil in these engines does seem more than capable of protecting the engine. I'm sure it must shear down fairly early in the UOA (I base this notion on what Sunruh has posted, showing that oils with a tendency to shear tend to do so pretty quickly)... but nonetheless these oils still protect well, even after shearing.
There are several UOA's of synthetic oils here which did not shear in basically the same application, but they protected less well, as evidenced by the higher wear metal numbers. If given the choice as to which one I'd like to look better at the end of an oil change intervall--the oil--or the engine... I'll take the engine every time...
Dan
