Have you seen anything like this?

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Corinth, TX, USA
I have received a Honda lawn mower - HRR216K8VYA s/n MZCG-8432572

The GCV160 engine is GCV160AO MX2 R280 and is the GJAPA1589376 variety

I have no history behind this mower except that it was set out on the curb and a friend of mine picked it up. But it does not run too well - it starts on the first pull, but sounds like the blades are pounding the heck out of the stuff below. Except they aren't. The friend has been using it like that, after replacing the clutch for the blades, for about two years as a second mower. So it wasn't used much. When I got it, it was almost out of oil - just showing on the dip stick maybe an eighth of an inch. So I added enough to fill it, but the banging was awful. I pulled all of the things that are below off and put just the clutch on without the operating stuff and when it started, the noise was as bad as ever.

The only thing that I can see wrong is that the flywheel has way too much play at the top - it isn't too bad at the bottom, but is almost 1/4" horizontal movement at the top. I am sure that that kind of movement could cause that much noise. So I thought that the bearings must be out - there are no bearings, just really thick seals on the upper and lower that appear to be intended to keep the crank in-line. I have ordered the two seals, but I am concerned about the engine - is there any way to save it? I put two pictures of the flywheel interfering with the coil even after I had moved the coils to make a gap because I thought that the flywheel was hitting the coil ends - it was rubbing all of the way around. I'm surprised that it didn't hook the notches in the flywheel. The first picture shows the gap at 1/8" or more with the flywheel pulled toward the front and the second shows it rubbing on the coil when pushed the other way - it is a little hard to see.

I split the engine block and looked at the rod and crank - they look like nothing is worn or otherwise damaged. But I cannot find anything that looks like crank bearings! The crank seems to operate in a large hole not designed to hold it in place. The only surfaces are the oil seals. If those large holes are the bearing surfaces .... - well suffice it to say that they are totally worn out - and the engine is toast. I ordered the two seals and will try to install them to see what happens.

Thoughts?

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You wasted your money on new seals. The top main is worn out from what you are saying. There is no bearing or bushing, just the bore in the aluminum block.
 
Exactly what @old1 said. The case is the bearing. You would need a new case and likely a new crank-- the engine is totaled.
 
If it were mine and I wanted/needed to salvage the motor, then I would get a sleeve for it. Probably .001-.0015" ID larger than the crank journal. I would try to find someone with a reamer I could borrow and ream the block, then locktite the sleeve in with a minimal interference fit. Shold run a long time.
 
Interesting, isn't it. I saw a you-tube video where a guy was saying that the dealer had told him that they make noise like that. His wasn't as loud as this one but it was the same banging knock. I couldn't see any evidence that the case had ever been close to the crank, but it is pretty hard to see inside the upper seal without tearing it out. I thought we had grabbed onto a good deal with this, but I guess not. Depends on what other parts are usable. I had hoped to fix and resell it. What I am hearing about the Honda mowers is that they are terribly overpriced which they are able to get based on previous good mowers, but their new mowers are nothing but crap and they are not standing behind them worth a hoot.

The idea of repair with JB Weld is not so far fetched. I would think that a sleeve of brass would help the situation. I'll look into it further. I have another of these HRR that I might be able to use the parts on.

The seals were less than $15 for the pair, if I remember right. The top one was cheaper than the bottom one - like $6. I can use them for the other engine if needs be.
 
For that amount of work I'd wait to find another freebie mower. I've picked a couple of them up from the transfer station; surely there are some on the curb from time to time. Collect a few, make one work out of all the parts, kick the pile to the curb for the next guy to repeat the process. Or just buy a new one this fall. One morning I saw new push mowers at Walmart for $60, I think they were blowing them out as winter is rolling around. I was sorely tempted, new and all, just a simple 5hp Murray (or whatever hp equivalent it is these days).
 
I pulled the seal out of there and I was just not putting two and two together. The round hole that it fits into is the top of the cylinder part that I saw in the parts breakouts. It just never occurred to me that that corresponded to the location for the seal. The hole looked much larger than the shaft diameter. No doubt the other end is the same way. I think that these parts are still available for $60-70 and the bottom half for $40-50. Then a new piston, rings, connecting rod and crankshaft will take it up another $100. Toyed with the idea of reaming - sounds like an interesting idea especially if the other end isn't too badly worn. In fact for the top, one could make a piece that went in below the seal to form a 1/4" to 3/8" collar on top of the existing material and just bolt it to the case. That ought to last as long as the original case did. Could make it out of 5052 Al stock, too. It is pretty tough stuff. A collar sleeve going into the bearing area sounds better though.
 
It has been run without oil Likely ready to throw a rod bearing too. You can run it with ear plugs and wait for the final bang. Or find another used motor.

Rod
 
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