Has anyone removed the cover under their vehicle permanantly ? Any dangers doing this ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
There's a middle ground, you can make a hole so you can reach the filter and drainplug without removing the cover completely.
That's what I did on my Accord. I cut a small hole in the bottom plastic cover just big enough to reach the drain plug so I don't have to remove it every time I change the atf.
 
It depends on the vehicle and what they are protecting, I have bought and worked on many vehicle that have had them removed and see all sorts of problems from doing it.
Some are.. Rotted transmission/PS and oil cooler lines, rotted starter terminals, badly rusted crank pulley bolts, corroded wiring connectors, perpetual squealing belts, corroded A/C clutches, corroded steering racks, all sorts of corrosion issues.
On one car I worked on the turbo was front mounted and took a cold water bath with every puddle, after 3 failed units the guy was beside himself, a $30 plastic shield missing was the problem, he figured he didn't need that and tossed it.

They are only plastic but deflect water from sensitive parts, it is not really as much about aerodynamics as it is corrosion protection on many vehicles. I always replace them and if missing install them.
They may also effect the cooling of the engine, again depending on where they are located.
^^^ Listen up folks … this guy has more experience than a room full of members ^^^
 
On my 2006 Dodge Magnum, the splash shield is connected to the front bumper cover. If I leave it off, the bottom of the front bumper cover is unsupported and waves around. So I continue to put it back after an oil and filter change. I bought new clips and screws for it and douse them with acf50. Makes it easier next time.
 
Also remember that today's cars (most of them) are exercises in compactness.
Commonly oversized power-trains are shoehorned into engine bays.
I want my hot machinery shielded from as much dirt and spray as can be.
I patched and rehung all the flexible fiber splash shields on my sister's '88 Jeep. Each piece had ripped-out holes (like 3 ring binder paper).
The buyer commented on how clean the engine bay was.
Don't be obstinate.
Angrily deciding a part is unnecessary is foolish........maybe even mentally ill.
 
I just spent some time and money fully reinstating all the covers underneath my Camry

As I bombed through heavy slush and lakes of salt water I'm glad that's not directly getting thrown at the electrical bits of my transmission, and the front side of my engine block and exhaust manifold

There's also vacuum lines, trans cooler lines, and electrical wiring that I'd like to protect
 
It depends on the vehicle and what they are protecting, I have bought and worked on many vehicle that have had them removed and see all sorts of problems from doing it.
Some are.. Rotted transmission/PS and oil cooler lines, rotted starter terminals, badly rusted crank pulley bolts, corroded wiring connectors, perpetual squealing belts, corroded A/C clutches, corroded steering racks, all sorts of corrosion issues.
On one car I worked on the turbo was front mounted and took a cold water bath with every puddle, after 3 failed units the guy was beside himself, a $30 plastic shield missing was the problem, he figured he didn't need that and tossed it.

They are only plastic but deflect water from sensitive parts, it is not really as much about aerodynamics as it is corrosion protection on many vehicles. I always replace them and if missing install them.
They may also effect the cooling of the engine, again depending on where they are located.

I didn't read the rest of the thread but this is important to highlight.

Does anyone remember the story of the Audi that made the rounds on the internet, that was worked on by hacks at a quick-lube place? A Jiffy Lube IIRC. They hacked holes in shields, and things got worse from there. A comedy of errors, but not for the car owner...

All of our vehicles have skid plates or splash shields of some sort. Three have pieces designed specifically for aerodynamic purposes. None of them will ever see the unskilled hands of hacks as long as we own them.
 
Last edited:
I have notice, in general, vehicles that have the undertray are normally a lot cleaner than ones without. The evo's came off involuntarily one winter and the difference in rust and overall cleanliness of the engine bay was a huge difference when the undertray broke off.
 
It takes 5 minutes maybe to remove the cover underneath our Ford Escape.Hardly something I'm going to worry about.
 
My MAZDA has the large under shield but, also, a movable section for oil & filter changes. I never thought of it helping with noise deadening PimTac


There is some noise deadening factor to it. What I was referring to was the wheel well liners.


Mazda was smart to incorporate that access for oil changes. They made it easy for the DIYer.
 
Automakers aren’t looking to give you a **** thing for free, they’d charge you for the factory air inside the cabin if they could. If they’re there, there is probably an operational reason for them being there be it noise reduction, aerodynamics, water shielding, impact protection/disbursement. Additionally if I was looking at buying a car I’d walk away if all sorts of plastic bottom panels were just missing. It just looks suspect and we all know how things like that go missing. Personally I’d do one of two things. 1.) if there are bolt fasteners holding These panels in get one of those electric ratchet wrenches from Harbor Freight or Milwaukee and just zip them off 2.) if there are pop clips holding things together buy a big bag of pop clips that correspond with the size needed so when you remove them you don’t have to be very gentle.
 
The Fumoto oil change valve I will be installing on my 2016 CRV has the 90 degree elbow bend tube option, and that is one of the ones that does not have the option of using the black plastic clip that insures the valve never opens from road debris. So my insurance that road debris never can hit the Fumoto valve is to continue to use the bottom cover.
 
Ir you're using full synthetic oil you probably don't need to change the oil that often anyways. Just leave the bottom cover on.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom