Has anyone here really had an oil filter fail?

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Purolator PureOne. Quakerstate 10W-30. 89 Ford Ranger. Less than 800 miles. Filter completely staved the engine of oil.


How does a filter, working or not, "completely starve" an engine of oil? Did it blow out or something?


Same way as the Fram I had do the same thing. Internal media collapses down tight around the center tube. It can also impair the function of the bypass valve when that happens.

 

[Sunnyinhollister]

I had a Bosch that was bad from the factory - pleats were not glued down in one section. Dad had start up noise with a Fram OCOD on his Suburu. That's about it but I mainly use high end filters and my cars are very well maintained so that may skew my results a bit.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Only filter I've ever seen a problem with (since cutting filters open) is a Purolator Classic with torn media.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...902#Post2260902

Still using Purolators ... no other problems. Any filter regardless of brand can have a problem now and then.

 

[rjacket]

Seems that spin on filters are inherently a bad idea even if the chances of failure are low. With a cartridge filter you always see exactly what you're installing.

 

[Donald]

I had one 30 or so years ago that I was pretty sure the bottom was warped. I changed it and the next one worked fine. Unsure of what brand, may have even been a OCOD.

 

[ahoier]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Seems that spin on filters are inherently a bad idea even if the chances of failure are low. With a cartridge filter you always see exactly what you're installing.
YES....that's what I'm thinking too.....and oooooohhhh soooo easier to handle; Right from the top

With the cannisters, you don't "see" the results until after the OCI, and you cut that bad boy open.....

Really considering that SCOTT Toilet Paper Filter hahaha.....30k OCIs or soemthing on that bad boy......After you add a quart or 2 of top off every 3k, when you change out the oil-soaked Scott Toilet tissue Only problem would be mounting that under the hood of my 88 Aries

Not a whole lotta room...

Cause yea, as much as people bash FRAM around here.....it seems defects can happen to/with ANY brand of oil filter....The RP defect is astonishing and surprising too! Cause RP has multiple videos, showing how they supposidely test each and every filter as they are taken off the assembly line....

 

[webfors]

depends on your definition of 'fail'...

Here's my fail thread:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1807522&page=1

 

[typ901]

Originally Posted By: ahoier
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Seems that spin on filters are inherently a bad idea even if the chances of failure are low. With a cartridge filter you always see exactly what you're installing.
YES....that's what I'm thinking too.....and oooooohhhh soooo easier to handle; Right from the top

No- not all are from the 'top' Cayenne v8 is cartridge, and is on the bottom just like a canister would be.

And only filter I have had fail on me in 20 + years was a OEM Land Rover filter. Defective gasket. Leaked about a quart out on garage before I saw it. The gasket had a kink or flat spot in it. I replaced it with a Mann and no issues.

 

[crazyoildude]

not in a long time but i do remember years back i came across filters that rattled and was loose inside

 

[Maxima97]

At least you still have unfiltered oil running in the engine. Better than clogged filter and no oil circling around

 

[catso]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Seems that spin on filters are inherently a bad idea even if the chances of failure are low. With a cartridge filter you always see exactly what you're installing.
I bought a used BMW with a NAPA Gold cartridge filter about two years ago that was warped and "soggy" appearing when I removed it. The media was falling apart on the bottom end. I don't know how long it was in there, but its deterioration was causing a knock from the lower end that immediately went away when I replaced it with a new Mann filter.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Cut open spin-on for inspection. No big deal.

 

[zorobabel]

Did you also replace the oil at the same time? Was the knock noticeable with the engine hot, cold or both?
Originally Posted By: catso
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Seems that spin on filters are inherently a bad idea even if the chances of failure are low. With a cartridge filter you always see exactly what you're installing.
I bought a used BMW with a NAPA Gold cartridge filter about two years ago that was warped and "soggy" appearing when I removed it. The media was falling apart on the bottom end. I don't know how long it was in there, but its deterioration was causing a knock from the lower end that immediately went away when I replaced it with a new Mann filter.

 

[Jim Allen]

Just today, in fact. A Motorcraft FL784 for my 6.9L diesel. I had an old one (dated 2008) and use it for break in for my fresh overhaul. I have about 150 miles on the engine and was taking the truck out for a run today, when I noticed a slight fuel leak (injector return hose). I had the engine running tracking it down, was under the truck in fact, when all of a sudden the oil filter started dribbling. Outta the blue! The leak was not the gasket but at the crimp where the can is attached to the base. Given the money I have in this engine, this is the kinda failure I want to happen.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Fail!

 

[morris]

years ago i read about some fram filters used on racing motorcycles that pop off the holding threads. the people in charge of the race made a rule that they could not use frams. i think the filter was not a race type filter. the story was that the threads on the filter was in-gauged only 2-3 turns of threads. fram DOES know how to build good filters, but they dont for mass production, just my idea.

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: morris
years ago i read about some fram filters used on racing motorcycles that pop off the holding threads. the people in charge of the race made a rule that they could not use frams. i think the filter was not a race type filter. the story was that the threads on the filter was in-gauged only 2-3 turns of threads. fram DOES know how to build good filters, but they dont for mass production, just my idea.


So you should only buy filters that are made by hand one at a time??

 

[Caliberguy]

i took a FRAM off my dad's 1991 mercury grand marquis after a year, and i saw that oil had seaped around the rubber gasket. maybe we didn't tighten it enough of course so i cannot totally blame the FRAM.

i recommend though that after removal of old filter, to make sure that old gasket isn't stuck to engine block as this can happen

 

[TonyB007]

Two days ago I changed out a FRAM cartridge filter on a 1998 BMW 740i. What I saw when I opened it up left me in total disgust. The cartridge filter had its plastic top and plastic bottom TOTALLY removed from the pleated filtering media. The filtering media was glued to the top and bottom. However it appeared that the filtering media disintegrated where the glue came into contact with the media. Circumferencially, the rip line in the media appeared to follow the edge where the glue stopped, both on the top and the bottom. The media was pushed against the center cone that is part of the car's filter housing. There were several bits of paper and gunk clogging the filter housing drain hole so the filter would not even drain the oil- that was my first warning of problems. I had a hard time even removing the bottom filter ring since it is a friction fit and normally comes off with the filter. This was running synthetic oil with about 10000 miles on the oil change. I was so mad and upset I totally forgot to take pics as it took me almost an hour to remove and clean the out the filter housing. The only reason I used the Fram was that was what I had left from an oil change special before. The filter was made in India. I put in a Mann filter that had no plates on the ends but more of a glue gasket sealed ends- like glue or sealant was used to close the end off as opposed to a piece of plastic or something else. There were no different engine noises before or after so at the worst I hope that only dirty oil was circulated for thousands of miles.

FRAM NEVER AGAIN!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: TonyB007
Two days ago I changed out a FRAM cartridge filter on a 1998 BMW 740i. What I saw when I opened it up left me in total disgust. The cartridge filter had its plastic top and plastic bottom TOTALLY removed from the pleated filtering media. The filtering media was glued to the top and bottom. However it appeared that the filtering media disintegrated where the glue came into contact with the media. Circumferencially, the rip line in the media appeared to follow the edge where the glue stopped, both on the top and the bottom. The media was pushed against the center cone that is part of the car's filter housing. There were several bits of paper and gunk clogging the filter housing drain hole so the filter would not even drain the oil- that was my first warning of problems. I had a hard time even removing the bottom filter ring since it is a friction fit and normally comes off with the filter. This was running synthetic oil with about 10000 miles on the oil change. I was so mad and upset I totally forgot to take pics as it took me almost an hour to remove and clean the out the filter housing. The only reason I used the Fram was that was what I had left from an oil change special before. The filter was made in India. I put in a Mann filter that had no plates on the ends but more of a glue gasket sealed ends- like glue or sealant was used to close the end off as opposed to a piece of plastic or something else. There were no different engine noises before or after so at the worst I hope that only dirty oil was circulated for thousands of miles.

FRAM NEVER AGAIN!


Same thing had happened to the FRAM cartridge we removed from my sister's 330i. It has an OEM (MANN) BMW filter in it now. We aren't going to use anything else in it.